Greetings folks,
I am adding two driving/ off road lights to my front bumper using factory LR mounts. The question though is regarding the switch for the cockpit. What would be an aesthetically good place to mount the switch in your opinions?

 

I can tell you exactly how to do it.. Don't install a switch, use a remote relay and wireless remote.. No switch to mount, no wire to run.

Here is a picture of two rear remote relays for two rear lights, a separate relay under the hood controls the front lights.

If you are hooked on the switch, use the factory wiring kit, switch, and configure the CCF files, and the switch would be made to fit here.

Just a thought.

 

Never thought of going wireless. I will definitely look into that. Great tip!

 

Which are they? Off-roading lights or driving lights? They are two different types of lights that serve different purposes.

 

If he is doing "round" ones I recommend 1 spot and one flood. But the question was on the switch. I'm use Rigid light bars.. Not for street use.

 

I realize that, but that doesn't change the fact that driving and off-road lights are two different things used in different situations providing different light patterns.

But maybe I misunderstood his plan and he's installing driving lights and installing off-road lights.

 

Sorry for not being specific. I am installing two Hella 55 watt driving lights on the front bumper but the switch location was the big question. Thanks guys!

 

The most aesthetically pleasing switch and location is the Land Rover aux light switch in the standard mounting location (just to the right of the gauge cluster). Not cheap by any means, but definitely the most integrated look.

 

Hello,

In response to the best location for the switch, here is my opinion and what I have done in my own LR3.

The lower dash trim panel (below the steering wheel) is easy to pop on and off to make work easy and also has a large void behind it to house a bundle of wires.

To remove the panel, grasp it in the top corners and pull towards the driver's seat. The top will pop its clips (KEEP AN EYE OUT for little metal clips that may spring off, these are needed to reinstall the trim panel). The panel will hinge on the lower locating tabs. Then simply pull it towards you and it comes right out of the vehicle for easy measuring and drilling. Once the switch is mounted to the panel, insert the locator tabs back in the slots and the panel will hang there until you have the wires connected to the switch. Then replace the metal clips on the upper tabs and push the panel into place until you hear the clips click into place.

This location is very close to the headlight control switch and offers a direct path to the firewall that is easy to work on.

You may notice I have one switch mounted sideways, that is for quick identification of the forward facing 30 inch LED bar. The vertical switch is for two roof mounted rear facing 6 inch LED bars for camp lights or reversing a trailer in the dark. Also a close inspection will reveal two more pilot holes that I drilled but have not continued through with mounting switches. As lights are added I will use these locations. I thought there would be no need to have a bunch of switches that are not in use.

As a final note, the switches I have purchased have the same construction with red, yellow and green LEDs. The different colours will verify which set of lights are turned on, as long as I can remember the colour that identifies the individual sets of lights. Switches that light up when active also alert you when the lights are accidentally turned on in daylight hours. I have seen people driving around with a lightbar on during the day, because they bump the switch and have no idea the light is on.

 

Thanks spiderman...excellent tip!