Putting this here because I couldn't find much about this stuff when I went looking, and I wanted to know if it did anything. I have used BG44k for fuel treatment in the past, and it seemed to help. Maybe this stuff works well too.

Changed the oil yesterday, had ordered a few cans of this EPR stuff (formerly BG109). For the uninformed, BG EPR is meant to be added right before an oil change and supposedly helps to clean out some gunk/sludge. You add the stuff [one can only] (clear, smells something like rubbing alcohol) in the oil fill tube, run the motor @ 1200 rpm for 10 minutes, then drain the oil from pan as normal. My oil was slightly darker (not black as some have seen afterwards) and smelled like the EPR liquid a bit. I did pour a quart of new oil through the fill tube and let that wash out some remaining old oil in the pan (hey why not).

I would also have some feedback on the fumoto valve thing but since Fumoto decided to send me an F-103N (12mm x 1.25) instead of the F-106N (14mm x 1.5), I had to use a normal drain plug. Next time hope they send the right one but that wont matter for another 7000 miles.

Filled up with 8 quarts as normal (castrol edge 5w-30), started up. Idle smoother, nothing crazy, just sounds nice. Motor seems happy though. Otherwise it was never mistreated in its life, regular changes, same oil, either factory or-since I bought it- K&N filters. I did not have any previous noise or ticks (maybe some injector noise) related to the oil, but it seemed to clean something out.

My .02 is if you have a dirty motor or just bought one of these vehicles it would be a good idea to have your first change be with this stuff, might give you some peace of mind. Otherwise just use good oil and filters.

 

Liquimoly Ceratec works awesome too. I think its every 50,000 miles you add that. My lifter noise just disappeared and engine runs super smooth. Did you feel a big difference after BG44K?and did you change the sparks after?

 

I did not feel a difference after the 44k, but there was a mileage difference which helped. Have now used 44k twice, only changed the plugs after the second time. Unless you've got trashed plugs, the 44k shouldn't hurt it.

Good note on the 50,000 miles

 

So... question on the Fumoto valve. I think it might be neat on another car where the oil filter is situated differently (e.g. On my wife's RR where the filter is up high), but on our trucks, you have to remove all of the armor anyway to change the filter... so, what's the point? Seriously, I'm not trying to criticize or anything (and I hope it doesn't come across as snarky in any way), but I genuinely want to know why people do this on our trucks.

The only two things I can think of are 1) people are scared of stripping the threads on the pan? or 2) people do multiple oil changes before they change the filter. Convince me to buy one by telling me the benefits!

 

Ah i see.i think i got confused with the BG fuel rail cleaner. I think thats what hurts the plugs. Thanks for clarifying that

 

When you say change the filter, do you mean the pan plug? I always change the filter, and the little armor plate isn't that bad to remove.

Armor aside (fumoto does nothing to improve taking the plates off), my concern is not having to change the oil plug for new every two changes, stripping the threads, and the absolute mess it makes when oil shoots everywhere in the moment when you take the plug out, it has gotten oil on the frame, few bolts etc, more than once. I would prefer just removing the plates, having a short 3/8 tube connected to the valve sitting there, directing it down to the drain pan below, and opening, then closing the valve. After reading a few horror stories about the stripped pan threads on some vehicles (little less horrifying after reading the helicoil fix discussion on expo), it seems like a nifty idea to remove the bolt from the equation. Either way it changes nothing about needing to change the filter every time.

Secondary:
>I figured if someone accidentally overfilled the oil, you could use that to drain some out a small amount at a time.
>Good for taking oil samples for analysis (not needed now, maybe in 5-10 years???)

Lastly and oddly enough, I had the chance to compare an OEM LR bolt (came in a part numbered LR baggie), a Dorman bolt, and this fumoto thing (albeit was the wrong size). The OEM and the Dorman bolt are just crappy cast bolts, the thread quality is honestly pretty bad. The Fumoto threads are excellent, and not as long as I thought, but are deep enough. Much better than the OEM/Dorman examples.

I have the Dorman one on the pan now, it works. Next time I will try the fumoto, not looking forward to the splatter of hot oil while I am wedged under the truck (easier under a lift if I had one...)

 

And I do oil changes constantly it seems... once every 3 months???

 

Good points. I guess I just figured installing the valve was to make changing the oil easier. It would be really nice to just run a tube out from on top of the armor and use a screwdriver to release the valve. I hate taking my sump guard off.

I just overfilled my Audi recently and had to let a bit of oil out. It's certainly doable with just the bolt, but a bit messy. I will fully admit also that changing the oil on a windy day really sucks. The LR3 is so high (which is nice for working underneath it) that the wind blows that oil stream all around before it hits the container. The valve would certainly make for a cleaner change.

 

My thoughts exactly

 

Here is my horror story: dealer service department told me my threads were getting stripped out (aluminum pan and steel plug). So to avoid installing a new pan ($1800 part) I revised the oil plug using some stainless steel pipe fittings. $10 solution to a $4000 problem.