So I have a quit lengthy post in regards to all of the issues I am having with my 2008 LR3. Not sure how to attach that post but will try so soon.

I decided to create a new post centered around electrical issues with my vehicle. I have many warning lights on but I decided it makes sense to start with the battery warning light and try to get it to go off.

I am not sure what all can cause the light to come on other than the obvious; bad battery or bad alternator. I had the battery checked at Auto Zone and they said it tested fine under load. The alternator is a $300 non OEM part that was installed about 2 years ago. This current issue has been around for about 6 months. So it appeared to work fine.

I noticed when I removed the battery to have tested that the negative battery terminal was apparently loose. When I reinstalled yesterday I thought I tightened it down completely. Today it started several times but after leaving Lowes it was completely dead. Nothing. I opened the hood and wiggled the negative terminal and the car then started right up. Got home and I could wiggle the terminal easily but the screw is tightened as far as it will go.

Thoughts/Comments. Is it possible that this could cause major driving issues?

I am happy to resend all the issues if that will help.

Thanks.

 

Quick lists of issues

- Codes; P0506-24, P0016-00, P0018-00, P0622-00, P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175, P0316, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0101
- Lights; battery, check engine, brake, tire pressure, air bag (some may be accurate, parking brake has been removed)
- Warnings; Transmission gears, low coolant(sometimes), something else came up but I can not recall at this time
- Running; idles poorly, dies occasionally at lights, push gas pedal down first 1/4 mile goes 5 miles an hour then coughs and drives ok, brakes seem to not work well during that first 1/4 mile
- Work; cleaned Mass airflow sensor, checked battery

I am sure I am missing some things but this is basically what is going on.

Thanks.

 

You have quite a few issues going on. What is the history on the vehicle, how long have you had it, how long has it had issues? How many miles? Without knowing any history I recommend the following:

1. Get a new negative battery cable. The terminals do wear out, specifically the T bolts and conical nuts.
2. Check the pos terminal for tightness and the fusible link in the black box on the pos batt cable.
3. Check the voltage using a voltmeter with the vehicle running. It should be more than 13.5v at idle.
4. P0016 & P0018 are cam & crank correlation codes which indicate a timing problem. That is the next code I would track down because it is likely the cause of all the misfire codes and idle codes. Does the vehicle have a rattle at cold startup? May be a timing chain/tensioner issue.

 

Spread the neg clamp open and see if you can push it all the way down before tightening and check the cable condition, sort out this issue and most of the others will go leaving you with any real fault codes that need attention.

 

Couple adds.

I have owned the vehicle for 6 years. The issues started about 6 months ago. It has 150,000 miles.

I was able to open up the negative terminal. And get it to tighten at the bottom of the battery post.

idle voltage at battery is 14.26V.

As of now the battery warning light is still on along with all the others.

I will be going for a drive soon to see if issues have improved.

Thanks.

 

Have you tried a "hard reset".... disconnect vehicle leads from both battery terminals. After 30 minutes or so, without the battery, short the + and - vehicle leads on the vehicle and let sit overnight. Next morning hook things back up, clear any codes, see if they reappear?

 

So for the hard reset I leave the neg and pos leads to battery shorted overnight. Obviously without the battery. Is there any thing bad that can come from this. I assume it is a common thing. Thanks.

 

I don't think any harm can come from it... but when googling around, folks that have had the "christmas tree" issue (lots of lights on the dash), they've often found a hard reset resolved it.

https://www.landroversonly.com/threa...y-help.112737/

 

Hard resets are recommended practice to clear out stubborn codes like parking brake faults from disconnecting the parking brake switch, and especially for anything electrical related. Getting a GAP tool and reading the direct faults you are getting is not a bad idea either.