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Quick Tips for LR3 Purchase?

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  #1  
Old 10-04-2014 | 03:09 PM
phil29's Avatar
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Three Wheeling
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Default Quick Tips for LR3 Purchase?

I've previously owned a DII (until the wife crashed it , was a beautiful '04), and I currently own an LR2. We are looking to get rid of the LR2, and get something bigger and I think I've successfully convinced the wife to go for the LR3.

Is there anything I should be aware of when purchasing an LR3?

-Certain factory runs that are bad (like the infamous disco pump issue)
-Years that have better features (like the '04 DII had a center diff lock)
-Any common problems (like the LR2's weak differentials)
-Any "must perform" maintenance (like DiscoMike's 75k checklist)

Also, is there lots of room to work on the LR3? The LR2 is a pain to do maintenance on because everything is so cramped in the engine compartment.

Thanks in advance, I'm really looking forward to ditching my LR2. It didn't seem quite fair that she crushed the Disco and we ended up with the soccer-mobile.
 

Last edited by phil29; 10-04-2014 at 03:17 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-04-2014 | 04:15 PM
TOM R's Avatar
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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Look for maintained , makes huge difference

, look for wet front passenger floor

Leak on trans at electric connector, bad diff, working park brake

Look for idiot lights there are common issues with harness

There is room for plug change, at 100k miles

Oil change easy after remove skid plate

Rears look easy with fluid pump, transfer case looks easy, think these service at 75 k

Transmission is " permanent" but service at 85k? Iirc lift engine to remove plastic trans pan, install metal pan and easy for future changes can slip it out pan without engine lift?

Be sure suspension works correct

Nav CD is $$$, remotes/keys are $$$ and only through dealer, used cannot be reprogrammed and china new cannot be programmed
 
  #3  
Old 10-04-2014 | 04:18 PM
TOM R's Avatar
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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Btw look for spare with matching aluminum rim, should denote HD with locking rear diff
 
  #4  
Old 10-07-2014 | 02:30 PM
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I have a 2005 LR3 SE and recently tried to buy a 2006 HSE. Maintenance is the key. I had to take the newer truck back to the dealer and get mine back. BLUF, take it to a Land Rover dealer for a pre purchase inspection.

Problems with un maintained LR3

Tie rods worn, failed state inspection
Coolant bottle sensor bad
One parking distance sensor bad
Brake fluid black
Engine oil Black
Looked like chipmunks lived in the engine bay
Interior trim coming off
Rear differential sounded like a box of rocks, probably never changed fluid.

Well maintained, I say get it, otherwise leave it there
 
  #5  
Old 10-07-2014 | 07:31 PM
TOM R's Avatar
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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Documented well maintained

The 06 use I bought with the engine noise was supposed to be a maintained family car never offroaded, instead it is a wore out beat up construction site used vehicle with muddy packed areas and things missing

Go ebay
 
  #6  
Old 10-08-2014 | 09:49 AM
EstorilM's Avatar
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I just purchased an LR3 after looking for probably 5 years (I had a range rover sport for 3 years and have had a DII the entire time - '99) so I know what you're going through.

Basics first, which you may or may not know.. it's possible to get the SE with the same options as the HSE, but $tealerships usually think the HSEs are special or something and charge way more. HSE is easy though, I forget some of the basic packages and what it overrides but my HSE has everything the RRS LUX had, console cooler box, adaptive bi-xenons, heated windshield and heated rear seats, H/K Logic 7 sound, bluetooth, NAV, front park distance. No HD package (full-size spare as other member mentioned, gives you electronic locking rear diff). Those are the option run-downs though and they really didn't change by year.

In 08 they changed some stuff and added painted wheel arch trim and changed chawton white to alaska white but I think that's about it.

2005 and 2006 are the years that 90% of the TSBs apply to, but most have been done.

The one I got had PAGES of official LR dealership maintenance records.. yet it still leaks water onto passenger floor (well documented problem) and a week after I got it, the tailgate latch release cable broke (well documented problem also).

***BIG THING - see if your trans pan is wet with fluid. There's a $2 o-ring that seals the data link plug that goes bad, unfortunately you need to drop trans pan, some cross members, etc (and fluid is like hundreds of dollars alone) it's a $900 job I think. I left it alone on the sport and it ran fine, but my LR3 had it done and documented at dealership.

Check passenger floor carpet after a rain storm, if it's wet don't freak out but something to consider. My sunroof drains were fine but I know now the rubber windshield cowl is my issue since the HVAC filter is wet after last night - it lets water into air inlet for hvac. I'm also doing the TSB a pillar seal which involves $15 parts kit from dealer and replacing some plastic snaps on the back of the pillar trim pieces.. easy.

Also drive it with windows closed and everything off, up to 45 constant and back off throttle to just maintain speed.. make sure there's no marble / gear noises emenating through cabin.. careful for fine high frequency steering wheel vibration as all these hint at driveline issues but again, may not be end of the world and possibly something you'll have to deal with on any vehicle you get eventually (RRS and my new LR3 have some strange driveline noise in front through steering wheel at constant speeds above 40). Sport had dead front AND rear diffs FWIW.

Control arms happen every 40k as many have mentioned, tie rod ends also.. and brakes, alignment/tires.. so yeah. It is what it is, they're about 1100lbs heavier than the Disco (lol!).
 
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