Well, this is getting absurd...

So I got in the car this afternoon and as soon as I opened the door, I hear the Cd changer scanning through the discs... Nav screen is on as well.

However, there's no output at all, can't change the volume, and the Nav screen is stuck at the rover logo....

So going to run it down and see if I can get it all to reset again...

Let me ask this, why won't a reset through sdd won't do the same thing as letting the battery run down?

And lastly, would this be a symptom of the BCM going bad?

 

I presume that you are referring to a hard reset which I do suggest you perform as it costs nothing, is a clean hands task, and you do the procedure standing up - rare with any vehicle.

Also, on occasion, it actually solves radio problems and never does it do harm.

To get my radio talking again, I have had to do a hard reset after an alternator change out.

The best explanation I have figured out for why a hard reset is required or what initiates the situation that a hard reset solves is when battery power is removed from the 3 prior to the 3 going to sleep. It is much the same as pulling the plug on a running computer - usually the computer restart is not without it problems. Below are the Hard Reset instructions.

Also it is unlikely there is anything wrong with the Body Control Module or any other complicated bit or printed circuit board. Most often the really baffling problems are simple stuff like corroded connectors or "the mice have eaten the wires" - these problems are near impossible to find and cheap to fix once you find them. This is part of what makes the LR so frustrating a vehicle to work on - if throwing parts at it would work, it would be simple.

Also for the infotainment system or any of the computers to have any chance of operating correctly, the battery must be fully charged; that means showing at least 12.5 VDC with all shut down and then at least 13.3 volts on the system with the engine at idle. Battery charging voltage off the alternator should be between 13.9 and 14.5 VDC.

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)
Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.

Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable end to the positive cable end. (NOT the battery.) To do this, you will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.

Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights and the radio when turned on plays music rather than being silent.

Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased.Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1

 

Did you ever figure out the issue? My radio and nav are showing the same
exact symptoms. After checking all fuses, relays, doing hard reset after hard reset, my radio and nav screen are dead. This occurred after I went fishing around in my passenger door to
resolve a window issue. There is one nugget of info in this string that talks about a signal
from the door, but I don’t see any info anywhere on this; including on the wiring diagram.

I tried to jump fuse 58. It powered up the nav screen but radio was still dark and dead.

 

Per my PM of a few days back, fuses 52 and 53 also power the entertainment system - there are at least three power feeds to various parts of the entertainment system - this is not a Delco radio from the past.

In addition to fuses, the power window circuits use what are called FETs (Field Effect Transistors) rather than conventional fuses to protect the wiring etc. The FETs are more like auto resettable circuit breakers that are imprinted into a printed circuit board located behind or attached to the glove box fuse panel and are not replaceable. The FETs are what makes the auto reverse / anti jam feature of the windows function; they detect increased load and at a certain amp draw, reverse the current to the window motor. I think the FETs are also called relays in the wiring drawings.

I however think one of the fuses you replaced has failed or more than one fuse was shot. I find when fixing my 3, it does not matter what the problem is, there is always more than one thing wrong and you have to find all the problems to resolve the initial problem - not fun.
Re the fuses, some circuits are powered all the time; others require the engine running. In other words, definitely look at fuses 52 and 53 as to if they conduct and are OK.

After proving out the fuses, if the radio head still does not make radio noises, do the hard reset again.

Also did the Bluetooth for your cell phone work previously, and if so, have you tired it again?
I have had the radio appear dead but the Bluetooth still works - that gives hope.
Also I have had the entertainment system quit and then a few days later, upon engine start, the radio and all else works as it should.
I figure it is just a software glitch working its way thru the system and then "out". That is what the hard reset is supposed to do - dump and reload the software.

 

Hi there. Fuse 17 was the absolute culprit on my passenger side window. (and yes, I realize it's labelled rear right hand window). But now you have me interested, so tonight I am going to pull fuse 17 and see if my front passenger window works.

Should be interesting. I can't explain why, as I don't see the connection, but some Mechanic on the interwebs pulled something on all-data and CONVINCINGLY told me to check this fuse and wamo. Fixed.

I will check 52 and 53 again cause why not. What troubles me is that there is no power behind fuse 58, which I believe is the issue. (Have the "High Line" radio in my rig, so have been referencing that wiring diagram).

As to the hard reset- I've hard reset this bit** like 5 times. I followed those instructions to the tee. Letting her go to sleep, etc, It did not solve my issue.

What did you mean when you wrote this 6 years ago !?!? This line right here had me believing that me screwing around with my door (to diagnose the passenger window) had something to do with my radio issues.

"It would appear that something, (software signal from door?) makes C1354-8 go to ground and that energizes the Infotainment Relay R249, to allow power go thru the relay to feed F58P. In other words, with the relay solenoid not energized, then you are correct, they is no volts showing on either side of F58P."

 

You really got me to thinking. Yes, I guess it has been six years or so since I fooled with my entertainment system. The good news it that it has been working since then - may it continue.
First off, how I could forget about the window fuses is beyond me. My FET story is still correct - they are the bits that cause the auto reverse plus up/down to function, but the windows are not the problem.

As to the comment in post #10, I had to think about that.
The reference to "something in the door" is misleading - should be more like "something with the courtesy light circuits". Even that is a guess but something causes that relay to close and power F58P. Further to that, I got to looking at what happens when the drivers door is opened on my LR3.

The short answer is other than the interior lights going on, nothing. What I did note was that if the vehicle was locked and then unlocked via the pushbutton, that the radio display lit up along with the interior lights and the clicking of the doors unlocking. The NAV display remains darkened until the engine is started. Locking the doors will generally turn off the illumination of the radio display. As such, there is some interplay with the interior light circuit, the door locks and the illumination of the radio display. I seem to recall that the NAV display also illuminated to show the Land Rover logo but I see that does not happen any longer - in fact now that I think of it, I am not certain I see the Land Rover logo any longer but then I updated the Nav data so maybe that changed things.

I know when I removed the analogue Bluetooth and installed the fiber optic Bluetooth module that there were changes to how the entertainment system functioned. The most obvious was that I can turn the radio on with the key not in the ignition just by pushing the left **** inwards.
Remote operating the door unlock causes the Radio screen to illuminate and also the interior lights to come on, hence my guess is the trigger to power F58P is the courtesy light circuit signal into the touch screen display (NAV). As above, I think also the NAV used to illuminate.

Pulling out the key plus also the opening the drivers door after engine shut down will turn the radio off.

My theory was that for some event signaled to the the audio head unit causes C1354-8 to go to ground and results in a current flow thru fuse F58P to power, or at least tells something to power the Radio and I think in the past, the touch screen display. Given F58P is a 10 amp fuse, maybe that is the primary power feed?

This brings up an interesting question: are all your interior lights working including the bottom of door, puddle lights; also the door lock pushbutton?
I think if one of those circuits was dead, there might be entertainment system concerns. What I am getting at is something is keeping power from F58P.
Looking at the pdf wiring diagram, (link also below), I think I might try pulling F58P and then applying fused power to the downstream side (C0582-13) and see if the NAV display lights up. It might, and hopefully the smoke remains inside.
I guess what is certain, if no power gets to F58P, things are not going to work.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/alb...tem_wiring.pdf

This link is where the above is located.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thu...hp?album=34462

This link is where a whole lot of LR3 into is located.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/index.php?cat=15405

Below is another version of the electrical drawings showing the fuses etc. It can be a bit easier to follow than the pdf.

 

I wondered if there was any further progress on the concern.

Since I wrote the about a couple of weeks ago, I have been watching to figure out what causes the radio display to illuminate and also the NAV display.
On my 3, it seems a bit inconsistent. I would almost say the with the vehicle unlocked, merely opening the drivers door only illuminates the courtesy lights.
If the 3 is locked, then pushing the unlock button will illuminate the radio display even before I open a door. Most often the NAV display remains dark until I insert the key but if I delay inserting the key, then the NAV display does illuminate most of the time after a few seconds further delay. I wondered if it had something to do with the CD player under the drivers seat taking time to spin up and also the colder the vehicle (below freezing now), the greater the time delay except that pretty much as soon as the key goes in and the engine starts, the NAV illuminates.

What I am really saying is that I do not really know what causes the infotainment relay to go to ground and hence power all. It seems to be some combination of the door lock system, the courtesy lights and the key in ignition, or something independent or combined with the others.

I hence wondered if you had solved the riddle?

 

Well, fuse 58 is rabbit hole I am down with my 05 LR3 HSE. In June, it got soaked inside due to bad drains, cowl and unrepaired a-pillars, and when I got in it July 1 to run to the tire shop, the nav and radio were dead.

I spent the last four weeks drying it out, fixing a-pillars, cowl, and sunroof drains, and now I get power to the radio but the nav is dead. And there is no sound from the head unit.

When I use a fiber optic jumper to bypass the nav, I can get sound but the head unit is glitchy. It powers up, runs for about 30 seconds, then shuts off.

I removed the jumper and put it all back to original. I rechecked the fuses and still have no power to 57 or 58.

My current theory based on all my reading is, fuse 58 is triggered/powered by the head unit. That powers the nav unit. But since my head unit is glitching, what’s broke in there is not sending power to fuse 58, thus not powering the nav and keeping sound from working due to the MOST loop not being completed. If I bypass the nav with an optic jumper, I suspect I can get sound and I will have temporarily fixed a problem that is really just a glitchy head unit that is upset with the soaking and humidity our southern heat caused inside the car in June.

So, two questions:

1. Am I right in that fuse 58 is powered or ‘told to power’ by the head unit?
2. Is this head unit going bad theory logical?

One other note, upon pulling the head unit, there was splicing into the back of the harness leading me to believe this is not the original head unit. I have only owned the truck for a year and am trying to get it up to snuff after what appears to be years of neglect and delayed maintenance.

Finally, this is my first post, but I have been a long time reader. Thanks to everyone for lending their expertise to other’s problems.

Edit/addition: I supposed the relay in the CJB could be the culprit also, but I have not seen many instances in threads when that was the actual solution. So, even thought the simplest answer is usually the right one, in this case I feel like Occam probably didn’t own a Rover.

 

I did not read this thread or pull up diagrams, but the entertainment relay is responsible for power to the head unit and NAV. I think that relay is located on the CJB. So consider the relay to be a possible issue. With power, the NAV unit will always come up though - with no MOST network, it will just display a Rover logo (the start up screen) and go no further. So if it is totally dead, then you have another issue with it.

 

Thanks. I pulled the relay this morning and will see if my parts shop has one.
As someone that thinks out loud, I type to think sometimes. After typing and posting, I realized, “im going to need to pull that relay. It’s the easiest thing to eliminate.” I initially hesitated based on a thread on another forum and someone couldn’t figure out how to pull the relay. I realize now it wasn’t hard. I just pulled that big connector off the front first and there was room.
So that’s my next step. And I’ll report back.
Thanks for the help.