Rear Ball Joints
#1
Rear Ball Joints
Hi..may I ask a few questions please.
WHen slowly going over curb with window open something in the rear squeeks ..likely Ball Joints I was told..but which ball joints most likely ?
Also I asked mechanic ball joints need to get pressed in.he says the press he has works on BMW's but not sure if will work on ours..?
Des any of you know if a press used for ball joints of BMW will work on this ?
WHen slowly going over curb with window open something in the rear squeeks ..likely Ball Joints I was told..but which ball joints most likely ?
Also I asked mechanic ball joints need to get pressed in.he says the press he has works on BMW's but not sure if will work on ours..?
Des any of you know if a press used for ball joints of BMW will work on this ?
#2
Well they are not really ball joints but called "rose joints". Either term works, fo course, but when searching for parts it can be confusing if you dont know.
The rear has two on each side, so four total. They are pressed into the rear knuckle which usually requires removal to install the joints. The upper joint is press fit to center with no stops to locate it, just slowly press it in until there is equal distance on each side of the new joint. The rear joint uses a retainer clip that must be removed for removal of the joint itself. The clip can be reused but some new joints come with new clips. The issue, though, will likely be the bolts holding the upper joints to the control arms will be totally seized up and require replacement. Not to mention they require cutting to remove. So this is not always a straight forward and easy project. The lower joints are 50/50 if they will come out with some work and not have to be cut.
If you replace them, its best to use OEM/Lemforder only. Also best to replace in pairs, meaning if you do an upper on one side you do the upper on the other.
You *can* cheat if you want by lubricating the joints. I did this a put a couple more years on mine before I replaced my entire rear end. Use a syringe with warm oil and inject a healthy amount into each joint. Its not easy to reach then with the wheel on, but you can, but best to remove the wheel. Inject both sides of each joint then take some sealant and dab a little on top the hole you made to reseal the boot. The vast majority of the time this will silence the joint over the next couple days and the noise will not return any time soon. With that said, a creaking joint means a worn joint so replacement is needed at some point.
The rear has two on each side, so four total. They are pressed into the rear knuckle which usually requires removal to install the joints. The upper joint is press fit to center with no stops to locate it, just slowly press it in until there is equal distance on each side of the new joint. The rear joint uses a retainer clip that must be removed for removal of the joint itself. The clip can be reused but some new joints come with new clips. The issue, though, will likely be the bolts holding the upper joints to the control arms will be totally seized up and require replacement. Not to mention they require cutting to remove. So this is not always a straight forward and easy project. The lower joints are 50/50 if they will come out with some work and not have to be cut.
If you replace them, its best to use OEM/Lemforder only. Also best to replace in pairs, meaning if you do an upper on one side you do the upper on the other.
You *can* cheat if you want by lubricating the joints. I did this a put a couple more years on mine before I replaced my entire rear end. Use a syringe with warm oil and inject a healthy amount into each joint. Its not easy to reach then with the wheel on, but you can, but best to remove the wheel. Inject both sides of each joint then take some sealant and dab a little on top the hole you made to reseal the boot. The vast majority of the time this will silence the joint over the next couple days and the noise will not return any time soon. With that said, a creaking joint means a worn joint so replacement is needed at some point.
#3
Thank you so much.
It could be the upper set or the lower set that whining/squeaking ?
How can it be determined ?
Also..would it be much less labor to change the whole control arm set
instead of struggling with replacing the rose/ball joints ?
When we had fronts changed they recommended doing
the complete set of Control Arms instead of only the bushings.
Thank you
It could be the upper set or the lower set that whining/squeaking ?
How can it be determined ?
Also..would it be much less labor to change the whole control arm set
instead of struggling with replacing the rose/ball joints ?
When we had fronts changed they recommended doing
the complete set of Control Arms instead of only the bushings.
Thank you
#4
You can lubricate one at a time to determine which is causing the issue, but best just to lubricate them all.
They are part of the knuckle, not the arms. So replacing the arms will not solve the issue. New knuckles do come with new bushings, but they are not loaded with a wheel bearing/hub/dust shield.
They are part of the knuckle, not the arms. So replacing the arms will not solve the issue. New knuckles do come with new bushings, but they are not loaded with a wheel bearing/hub/dust shield.
#5
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