I am still waiting on my key coming in so, no, I have not had the opportunity to try it without the pairing. However it would seem to me that if the VIN is programmed into the key to allow it to start the vehicle, then it could just as well remote unlock it. As I understood it, the pairing was necessary to validate which keys *will* start the vehicle even if they are on the invited list - the point being that if you lose a key, someone who finds it (or the previous owner of your preowned LR3) can't use it anymore. Being able to immediately use the key would appear to be a loophole in that security as even if the remote unlock part was disabled you can still pop the drivers handle cover and get to the physical lock, and use your key to drive away.

This is part of the whole folklore and rumor problem around the LR3 keys. However it would appear to confirm that there is no way you can use even a "brand new" key from somewhere like eBay as the OEM seller wouldn't have performed the preliminary VIN pairing which it appears dealer supplied keys go through.

Once I get my key from my dealer, I will verify whether it starts the LR3 or not without some intervention from Faultmate/SDD.

 

Looking back through some of my invoices, I found that the keys I purchased were for Range Rover (L322) and Range Rover Sport. Neither of those vehicles required me to connect my IDS unit, to enable the new key to operate the door locks.

So this means it is still up in the air on the LR3.

 

Perhaps we can try and clean this thread up a little bit.

There are two parts to these keys: Keyless Entry and Immobilizer

The Immobilizer data is programmed into the Key from the factory. In my experience, new keys from the dealer require no "programming" to allow this key to start the vehicle, it already has the data it needs to make the PATS/CJB (depending on what you are working on) happy.

The keyless entry portion of the key DOES need to be synced with the car, since keyless operation goes through different modules then the immobilizer and also utilize a rolling code. When the key is synced for keyless entry, all keys DO need to be present, as any key not synced during the sequence will be ignored by the vehicle and not let it lock/unlock doors.

As far as missing keys, an IDS/SDD unit WILL need to be hooked up, to DISABLE keys. However, it has been my experience so far, that new keys are by default, already accepted.

 

I wish you were nearby, I would offer to do your key for free, just to find out for sure what works/doesn't work on the LR3.

 

Thanks for the kind offer - I have a Faultmate MSV2 incoming so I don't plan to pay my dealer to do anything other than hand over the key. I've tried in the past with an eBay brand new fob and managed to get the blank cut but unable to get past either the immobiliser or the pairing for remote lock/unlock. It would appear then that my suspicion that the dealer ordered key is not only cut from the pattern given by the VIN # but also the chip inside is "seeded" for want of a better term to only accept the VIN # of my LR3.

You may well be right therefore that the pairing the dealer does, merely enables the remote functions of the new key and effectively disables any other keys not present. Hopefully that would also mean that it turns off the immobilizer activation for "lost" keys too.

I will of course report back on what happens with the key only once I get it for the benefit of others following this thread. What it does seem to confirm at the moment though is that an eBay sourced key is only of any use if you're planning to transplant your electronics from your existing one to pretty it up (ie the buttons have worn through or other wear and tear). For people like me who only got one key from the purchase of their LR3, there is no other choice but the dealer. Fortunately my eBay seller, remotesinc was a stand up guy and gave me a no questions asked refund even though I had the blank cut.

 

I have two different remotes coming in. One is an OEM straight from the stealer (250) and the other is supposed to be an OEM that a stealer sent to a guy, but he never had it programmed.

I have two blanks being cut by the dealer. The intent will be to have the dealer use both remotes and program two of my LR3s. I'll report back with results.

I wish I still had the Remotes Inc. remote, though. I would switch it for the OEM one and see if the dealer's computer pukes it or accepts it. That would complete the test.

 

I have a hunch that key #2 won't work for your vehicle.

 

I think I did that test - dealer said they couldn't program the one I got from remotesinc either. Now whether they just took one look at it and figured it was a ringer I don't know....but they didn't charge me anything for their attempt. Of course their parts department got $260 richer a few minutes later ;-)

 

I was just browsing for relevant posts about and I happened to stumble upon yours. Thanks for the useful information!

 

A new Blade WILL open the driver door, but will NOT start the vehicle.

Anybody know the trick to taking the remote apart in order to place the blade into the remote?