If you just want to move the blade over you don't need to take the remote apart. If you look carefully you will see that the blade is secured to the spring shank by a small roll pin which you can tap out with a nail or jewelers screwdriver. If you actually want to dismantle the remote to swap the electronics, it can be done but as they were designed to be "waterproof" they are sealed and quite tough to prise apart. I believe there is a write up on disco3.co.uk on how to do it without losing too many fingers...

My dealer phoned and said my key had arrived so I will pick it up today and report whether the LR accepts it straight away without any programming voodoo....any bets ?

 

Below are a couple of links; the second one has sublinks within.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - both key fobs not working - help

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...uestion-49624/

 

I think the engine will start but that you cannot get into your 3 to start it. Well actually you could via the hidden key hole so now is a good time to exercise it and see if it is frozen from lack of use or still works. I am saying that the programming is needed for the remote portion to operate the door locks. Take all your other keys with you.

I appreciate your updates as this whole key thing really does need some light shed on it. Pretty much every vehicle in the world has a key - how can it they be an unknown quantity even if it is a Land Rover? Well maybe that is why.

Other bets ....

 

Nope. Just tried it. Obviously physically the key fits the lock and turns in the ignition but it does not start the engine. So out with the laptop and let the pairing begin...

 

Sorry Mr Land Rover Dealer, no $120 for you today. I used the same software which failed to pair the eBay bought key from remotesinc and it accepted (or the LR3 did) the dealer bought key without a murmur.

1/ Tell it how many keys we have today
2/ Reply 2
3/ Insert first key with ignition to 0 (off) and leave there for a second
4/ Prompted to remove first key and insert second key
5/ Leave ignition to 0 (off)
6/ Prompted to turn ignition to II (on) to clear fault codes
7/ Turn ignition off, job done. Both keys start vehicle and remote lock/unlock

Total time 10 minutes. They really should do this for free.

My final cost - $287 inc tax for the new key fob with blank cut to VIN pattern. Oh and by the way, the key duplicate cut by my locksmith wizard physically operates a bit more smoothly than the dealer one. I guess it needs some bedding in time to wear down the rough edges but so much for "laser" cutting Mr Bond....

So, that testing shows it was not my software at fault and leaves the question of whether any bought eBay key will work. Maybe LR Central do program in some kind of VIN # into the transponder chip so that although it won't start the car until paired, it can only be used with that VIN#. The only way to prove this out is someone else who bought an unpaired key off someone else who didn't use it for their Rover. If that fails but it’s a genuine fob with the FCC ID then we may conclude there is some chicanery at work.

Now I just have to figure out how to get the new key on my damn keyring...

 

It sounds like you have figured out how to at least save the dealer the "nuisance, time and effort" of pairing the keys.

It would appear that one still has to get the dealer to order the key fob from Solihull, but once it has arrived you can do the remainder.

That is real progress.

Re attaching the keyfob to a key ring, I used one of those little spring rings that attaches the hook to a fishing lure. The rings can be obtained from a fishing supply store - probably the only thing you can purchase for a Land Rover under a dollar.

 

I'm okay with the nuisance time and effort. It's the $120 kick in the wallet that hurts...

 

I am making reference to your post #18 which I enjoyed very much.

I also detect a certain amount of cunning and a determined refusal to buy in to all the sorcery tails that abound, some of which I appear to have been spreading; ie the key blanks are made of Unobtainium etc - not true as you have demonstrated.

I decided to reread the thread and I must say I enjoy how you have negotiated this tangle - you had it figured very well, (certainly better than I), and you have succeeded. That is to my mind, impressive.

I noted you made reference to some software. I presume that means you have something like a Faultmate and that the software from remotes inc is accepted such that along with inserting and rotating the new and existing keys in the ignition cylinder in a particular manner, that the software must be working and it talks back to you either thru the display on the 3 or on the Faultmate.

This is real progress and a world first I would say. I have not heard of anyone else on the boards achieving similar in the last seven years, (since 2005).

 

My wife says she admires my bloody minded determination not to believe what anybody tells me. Or at least I think that's what she said ;-)

My line of work involves unpicking tangles and the motto of Dr House (everybody lies) usually gets me through. The puzzle picture is not quite complete - I believe someone bought a key from someone who got it through their dealer for their car but never paired it. So that would be the litmus test of whether the keys are personalized by LR HQ when shipped apart from cutting the key blank.
Yes, I just acquired a Faultmate MVS2 but also have a Drewtech Mongoose interface which is what I believe the LR dealers use. Remotesinc only supplied the blank and I have to say John was a pleasure to work with - he was as interested in getting an answer for his customers as I was.

I may yet pursue further tests as I now know my software and LR3 is working as a team. I guess if the tests show that LR HQ don't monkey with the transponder, it makes it worth chasing down the China OEM clones in more detail. It may have been a frequency issue as I understand LR have two choices depending on the region.

It may be that remotesinc got the wrong ones or a batch of wrong ones. Paying $129 would be preferable to $260 after all. That’s a few beer tokens ;-)

 

The ignition keys are externally identical for all markets, but differ in the frequency and power at which the RF transmitter in the key fob operates. The RF transmitters operate at 433 MHz, 315 MHz or 315 MHz low power.

Here in Canada, or more correctly, the key I have shows 315 MHz but do not know if that is regular or low power. I think USA is also the 315 MHz as well and Australia is different, the 433 MHz I gather.

Overall, it sounds like another plus for the Faultmate MSV - it does level the playing field somewhat but it also takes brains to operate the thing as well. Plug and play refers to slot machines, and not much else - and you rarely win. This time you beat the odds but yes, there are still questions.