So I got my o-rings for the valve blocks, easy no big deal. Got the compressor rebuild kit. But now I can get the 2 high pressure lines disconnected. the one on the dryer no problem. The two towards the rear, they don't want to budge, one of them looks like fitting is already all the way down. I'm not trying to break it but what can I do to get the lines off. I know this thing has never been touched and is going on 15 years old.

 

trying WD40 again, now that I was able to get it all the way out other than the 2 lines, so hopefully it can actually penetrate. I found the other threads about cutting them. Prefer not too, but that'll probably happen at this point. next will be all new hardware to mount the bracket back up, bolts were seized to the bracket and the j-nuts broke off so at least I could get it out.

 

Have you tried using a crescent wrench? Push the pipe in and then use the smallest possible size crescent wrench to push on the metal collar. Once you’ve pushed the collar in then pull the pipe out.

 

Just cut them, off unless you don't have enough slack for them to connect to the new compressor... And a tubing cutter would be best, so you don't deform the lines.

 

^ Yup, taht is what I do. And dont forget the pipe AND collet get pushed in together, then pull just the line while keeping the collet pushed in. The issue is dirt, which not only prevent the collect from pushing in but also prevents its teeth from disengaging. Hence cutting the line is best because if you abuse the lines, they won't seal well if rough. But you did get em, so there is that. When mine lines on my truck got kinda chewed up from swapping compressor a few times I ended up cutting em of and using a section of new line anyway for a good seal. Really its just a **** place for the compressor too, so exposed to dirt and the elements.

 

Update for those that are following along. Got the compressor out. Needs all new mounting hardware and mount, the one bolt seized. I also had to to cut the lines, so ok, a little more work but still not terrible for a 15 yr old compressor. Start to do the rebuild on the compressor and the piston broke...It's just one thing after another. I'm taking it as a sign to just go to coils and never have to worry about it again. I did the front valve block last week. Then the rear, middle, and started the compressor this weekend. The front still had air and has bottomed out after sitting for a day in the cold. So even though I've tried soapy water spray I haven't seen the leak but seems to be there just based on the way it drops out after a short period of time. I could fix the compressor, lines, replace the mount, etc but feel like I'll be back at this once a strut finally goes and for the way I drive it, coils would seem to work out great with way better reliability. I'm also going to need tires soon so I could get a 2" lift and go up a size and not worry about the air failing and then bottomed out without a way to get back. I saw the Military Mobility videos, and that pretty much convinced me that the coils would do what I need, and do it reliably. So after reading some threads, might start a new one for recommendations on what kit and why. Seems like I just want to make sure I can flash it so I can keep terrain response and not get a bunch of suspension faults.

 

Finally got all the parts in and back in the car this weekend. I should have just bought a new compressor.

all valve blocks rebuilt. And the compressor got the new desiccant, filters, cylinder/piston, and gaskets. Once everything was back in it seemed to be working, up down etc. I let it sit overnight without the relay in and dropped from off-road to access overnight. So go back and check the compressor and middle block and found one of the connections a livery slight bubbles. Got it tightened up and let it sit overnight at off-road height after pulling the relay and fuses. Sitting at access height again this morning.
I’m gonna check the blocks again today, what else do I need to look at? It’s dropping evenly all around and I never found leaks at the struts before I started trying to fix the system. With every fuse and relay pulled the blocks should stay closed correct?

 

I think you saw the vid, but did you take the valve blocks ALL the way apart and clean the valve heads? The little black rubber things inside the metal thingy (technical terms, I assure you). And also, a leak at the middle block is not really an issue when it comes to front or rear dropping. Middle valve block only holds back reservoir pressure. So if it was not running for a while and you had a leak there, that would mean you are bleeding reservoir pressure - still not good, but would not be related to the dropping.

You only need to pull fuse 23??? Third up from bottom in engine bay on the right side of fuses, the small 20 amp or so. That kills the whole system. Relay can stay as all it does is power the compressor itself.

 

Yeah all the way apart and unscrewed the black cap with spring side amd wiped them all down. Found that apparently a couple of the lines needed another half turn to fully seat. But I’m gonna need a new compressor or at least a new collar for the inlet li es. The one was seized so cut it, ended up having to drill out the old hose and the collar is just too far gone to work. At this point after all the rebuild I feel like I should just go new.

so that’s my next question, stay with Hitachi or go with AMK? I’m planning on getting the gap tool at the same time so worried about switching.
The other thing I’ve noticed is the air system is now pretty loud when decompressing. I can hear the blow off if I go down in height while inside the car and driving Never really heard that before, is that normal?

 

Seems the most important thing to clean is that bit inside the spring.

Hitachi is, for the most part, superior to the AMK because it can be rebuilt. There is no actual advantage, operationally, from one to the other. I have been running Hitachi for years and rebuilt a few. But recently switched too AMK. I actually bought two made by Arnott. One at full price, the other on a deal so I am selling the one that was full priced. Anyway, if its louder it would be because an intake or exhaust line, the larger two lines, are not hooked up. That would be the only good reason for that.