Hi all and hope you are doing well and staying safe.

At 142k miles, my 2006 LR3 has a new issue with the key switch wont turn or unlock the steering. Also, it is in the shop getting the key switch assembly replaced. I ordered a replacement off of Ebay and it came with 2 keys and the key fobs. It came out of a LR3 and the parts are identical. My problem is going to be getting the replacement Key Fobs reprogrammed. 3 years ago, we moved away from the big city and are now over 100 miles from the nearest Land Rover dealer. All I hear is that once the replacement ignition is replaced, I will then need to get it towed to a dealer to have the vehicle reprogrammed for the replacement keys.

Is there any way around this part where only a LR dealer can do the reprogramming part?

Thanks for your input.

 

Get an IIDTool by GAP Diagnostics, and reprogram them yourself.....also, the IIDTool is invaluable and worth the $500 it costs all on its own. The fact that you have an immediate need means it will pay for itself upon arrival. This is a no-brainer.

 

Actually, I will be trading the vehicle in on a new truck or selling it on my own but bottom line is i am not planning on keeping the LR3 much longer, so doesnt really justify the expense but thank you for your reply.

 

Oh....well that's too bad. Good luck....

 

No GAP tool means dealer instead.

FYI, odd the key stopped working. Does seem like its a mechanical issue since turning the key to start does not require any of the electric to work, its a physical key to that point. That way you can unlock the steering and push the vehicle if the battery is dead (for example). The key itself has to circuits, one if RDIF which starts the vehicle and it part of the security setup. This does not use the battery inside the key. The second part inside does use the battery and thats the things operated using the buttons.

 

I have read in forums where other people has had the same issue. Google search "land rover lr3 key not turning ignition". Basically, over the past several months, the ignition key would some times not go into position "I", or turn the key unless you wiggled and jiggled. Sometimes flip the key over and it would work. Last week when I got into to turn the key to start, it wouldnt turn the ignition at all, no matter what we tried. So I ended up getting it towed to the local shop in which they removed the key assembly. I took it back home, hoping to free it up. Basically the tumbler's inside are warn out and or not working with the key any more. I couldnt find my spare key anywhere so pretty much screwed. Hoping if i could find my spare key, maybe it would have been in a little better shape than the key we use regularly. I bought another key assembly from Ebay which came with 2 keys /fobs. Once the shop puts my replacement in, unless i can find someone locally to program this thing, i will have to get the vehicle towed to Richmond Va, which is close to 100 miles just so Land Rover can program the system to the different keys. At least the tow bill's will be covered by my insurance but still a major hassle but at least the problem happened in my driveway and not on a long trip which would have really messed up my day.

 

On ebay they have two frequencies - one for North America and some other countries and one for UK, Australia etc so hopefully you got the right frequency. But like what has been said the key is 'mechanical' and only does something when it is turned. Try putting foot on the brake and make sure its in park before trying the key. WD 40 works wonders

 

Ok guys, the Land Rover is back in business without having to take it to the dealer to reprogram the keys that came with the replacement ignition.
If you ever have this problem what I did could save you some money and headache.
1. Bought a replacement ignition that included 2 keys /fobs. It was a used ignition but was in great shape.
2. The shop replaced the parts for me but they left the electronic ring that goes around the key ignition assembly dangling. This is actually a smart device that receives the signal from your key fob that says that key fob is programmed for this vehicle. This gave me a way to start the vehicle. I had to turn the ignition with the new key and at the same time, hold the old key fob next to the smart ring device. I dont know the correct name of it, but it is the part that lights up green when you put your key into the ignition.
3. My plan and the default thing to do is to drive your vehicle to the dealer and have the reprogram the replacement keys.. On the way driving home, was thinking. why cant i just take the electronic circuit board from the old key fob and replace the circuit board in the new key fob.. hmm. Well that is exactly what i did and it worked like a champ. Then i had to put everything back together around the steering wheel.

Ok here is what i should have done.. found this out after i had already broken open the key fob. The easies thing to do.. is the physical key is held in place by a small pin. You can see it when you open the key.. I could have punched that pin out and simply replaced the physical key. Basically, put the new physical key on the old key fob. Done. Still saved $150 for dealer programming, plus 200-300 on replacement parts and having to take a day off work to drive there.

Anyway.. hope this helps someone.

 

Was there a reason the 'dangly thing' could not have replaced the 2nd hand one

 

Sure, but then he couldn't use the "new to him" remotes to lock and unlock the doors as he would have had to replace the remote receiver ( mated to the remotes) above the headliner. Best option is exactly what he did. Use the original remote boards and just swap the key shank. I also understand that remotes from one vehicle cannot be reprogrammed to another vehicle. They must be wiped to a virgin state and then they can be brought into your system via a GAP tool.
The "dangly thing" or the ring around the ignition lock cylinder is a transponder.