Replacing rear strut
#1
Replacing rear strut
Trying to fix an ongoing leak either at the passenger side rear strut or at the rear valve block.
I know that the valve block for the rear axle is on the drivers side somewhere behind the wheel but haven't found any diagrams that point to it exactly. How do I get to it? I've seen people depressurize the front by slowly manually releasing pressure through the fittings, is this damaging at all?
Lastly, once I swap out the offending strut, do I need to reallign the vehicle? If its not for steering like the front, would it be because of camber?
Thanks
I know that the valve block for the rear axle is on the drivers side somewhere behind the wheel but haven't found any diagrams that point to it exactly. How do I get to it? I've seen people depressurize the front by slowly manually releasing pressure through the fittings, is this damaging at all?
Lastly, once I swap out the offending strut, do I need to reallign the vehicle? If its not for steering like the front, would it be because of camber?
Thanks
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DavC (03-23-2015)
#3
You can take a look at my gallery here to get a better idea of where the rear valve block is. Keep in mind that there are three valve blocks total, the front, rear, and reservoir.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - EAS
As far as a calibration, you should not need one unless you replace a height sensor or sensor rod. The strut itself has no effect on how the suspension height is measured unless one of the fixed measurement points is on the strut itself (which I don't believe it is from memory). Shouldn't need an alignment either unless you have to remove a control arm for some reason...
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - EAS
As far as a calibration, you should not need one unless you replace a height sensor or sensor rod. The strut itself has no effect on how the suspension height is measured unless one of the fixed measurement points is on the strut itself (which I don't believe it is from memory). Shouldn't need an alignment either unless you have to remove a control arm for some reason...
The following users liked this post:
DavC (03-23-2015)
#9
I don't think there is official guidance on that. Most suggest that you replace them in pairs, but I'm not sure that there is any real reason for that besides seat-of-the-pants feel. I replaced one corner and put the other on my "watch list" looking for contact between the upper control arm and strut at full droop. So far so good. That doesn't mean that I've taken a performance hit in terms of on-road ride; I just don't remember since I've had the LR3 for ten years.
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