I understand what you are saying. I have understood what you have been saying for a few posts now. I am also an Engineer, so I appreciate the schematics. I maintain that you could accomplish the lower picture in your pdf by simply using the IIDTool and saving it as one of your settings. At the end of the day you only have 100 mm to work with regardless of where your "calibrated to zero" setting is; and that zero-setting can be accomplished with shorter rods or the IIDTool. The only thing I'll grant you is that by using the rods you allow yourself one additional saved setting via the tool, whereas using the IIDTool to establish your baseline would use up one of the three user settings.

...are you possibly stiff-arming this because you don't want to recognize that the rods are unneccessary and were a waste of money? ...I had to go through that. Not just on the rods but on the running boards I mod'd in an effort to use when I should've bought the slider from the get-go.

It's an evolution my friend.

Oh, and I enjoyed your last paragraph. Good stuff. I'd say the LR3 is more limited by angles than ground clearance. Full up we have 13" or so down the middle. That's better than a LOT of other vehicles and not all that limiting. Unless you meant ground clearance at the sills; to which I'd re-iterate that you need sliders!

 

Yes, you're right about the departure angles. My biggest problem was steep dropoffs (e.g. getting into and out of the stream beds, etc.). The jeeps didn't really have many issues since they were lifted AND on 35's, but I always seemed to be dragging my rear bumper or bashing my front. That being said, I never got stuck and I was pretty amazed at the difference between the jeeps and the LR3. The jeep philosophy seemed to be of Jeremy Clarkson type, "more power"! Lots of wheel spinning and some sliding around side to side. The LR3 however, was extremely poised, very stable, and almost never had wheel spin. I simply pointed it where I wanted it to go, gave it a little gas, and boggled at the traction that it somehow seemed to find. This was really evident towards the end of the day when the jeeps were completely covered in mud and the drivers were covered in mud (had their tops down to start with), but all things considered, the LR3 was still quite clean (no flinging mud due to no spinning tires).

Concerning the suspension rods, PM me because perhaps I'm obviously not understanding what YOU are saying. Don't want to keep going on in the thread if I'm being dense, but I don't understand how you can accomplish the same thing with the IID tool alone. If I can find a way to do that, the rods are going up on ebay!

 

Would +35 work?

I've got one of these units in the garage, haven't tried it myself yet. My friends who tested it, said it was awesome. Considering importing a few. Any thoughts... http://www.mudtech4x4.com/modulo-agg...nitas/?lang=en

 

...not sure how they add 5" without invoking a bunch of "OUT OF RANGE" faults.

 

Electronic wizardry evidently, it does work.

 

I was running about +5" this past weekend, but got nervous and I think that's how I ended up overheating the compressor. I was running +3" from the IID tool/shortened rods combo, but would then bump it up when needed with the "offroad setting" (another 2") above standard height. I really didn't want to break anything, so I was trying to be gentle and would only raise up the extra 2" when I thought I needed it. In retrospect, it probably would have been a little harder on the axles, but MUCH easier on the compressor to simply leave it at the +5" the entire time.

 

Okay....look guys: You start out with STOCK off-road height. The rods or IIDtool can give you say 2" which is STOCK "extended height" and then you can go +1" to "Super Extended Height" and that's it. 3" above the stock "Off-Road Height" is all you can go without invoking suspension "OUT OF RANGE" faults. So, either you guys (and this company selling the mudtech $hit) are counting from "normal" height up 5" or someone is full of crap.

 

Yes and no. Like I was saying before, I can get +3" with the combination of IID tool and rods. I will try to take pictures or a video later toady to show you what I'm talking about. One is mechanical and the other computer/electrical and they can work in conjunction without doing the same thing. If you don't believe me, go increase your height to maximum with the IID tool, THEN put the rods on.

Anyway, that gives about +3", but the other 2" that I was talking about was by simply putting the car into offroad height. So not +5" over what the car is capable of... just +5" from stock "onroad/normal" height.

 

cmb, we are saying the same thing, re-read my post. I not only believe you, but I am in violent agreement with you. Can't raise it any further than 5" over STOCK NORMAL HEIGHT otherwise you get into Suspension Fault territory.