Suspension Fault (after Compressor Rebuild)
#11
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and have a question. I have a 2006 LR3 HSE and I too have the "normal height only" fault light.
I came back from 7 day vacation and the whole car was lowered. I started the car two days later and the suspension went up to standard height.
Now I get the fault message often.
I jacked up the car, and the compressor went on. When I lowered the jack it seemed to go back to normal. I didn't get the fault light, was able to raise and lower the suspension. After I drove the car, the fault light went on again.
Have any of you experienced this as well?
Need some help.
Thanks,
G
I came back from 7 day vacation and the whole car was lowered. I started the car two days later and the suspension went up to standard height.
Now I get the fault message often.
I jacked up the car, and the compressor went on. When I lowered the jack it seemed to go back to normal. I didn't get the fault light, was able to raise and lower the suspension. After I drove the car, the fault light went on again.
Have any of you experienced this as well?
Need some help.
Thanks,
G
#13
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Three weeks ago I did just a drier filter rebuild as the vehicle would raise the nose when cranking after sitting for a day or two. No Faults or error codes at this stage.
After the re-install, I crank, the compressor comes on (much quieter as well), then after 30-45 secs "Fault - Normal Height Only".
Also now if the truck sits for 2-3 days the battery is drained and car won't start. I have a charger and bring it back up to 100% and determined the Alternator was getting about 13.7-13.8V which seems just slightly low. I installed a new Alternator yesterday and now getting 14.0v at idle. But still the next day the car will have a slow crank/start.
Is it possible I'm loosing air (leak) and the compressor is coming on repeatedly to refill causing the battery to drain? Is Tadpole's fix a good next troubleshooting step?
I'll get codes pulled, just trying to perform as much deductive reasoning as possible. Thanks in advance.
After the re-install, I crank, the compressor comes on (much quieter as well), then after 30-45 secs "Fault - Normal Height Only".
Also now if the truck sits for 2-3 days the battery is drained and car won't start. I have a charger and bring it back up to 100% and determined the Alternator was getting about 13.7-13.8V which seems just slightly low. I installed a new Alternator yesterday and now getting 14.0v at idle. But still the next day the car will have a slow crank/start.
Is it possible I'm loosing air (leak) and the compressor is coming on repeatedly to refill causing the battery to drain? Is Tadpole's fix a good next troubleshooting step?
To investigate the problem further decided to pull the F3 fuse to prevent auto levelling operating and found both front struts had lost air. Decided to replace the front valve block and hey presto my problem solved. Seems the drier particles had caused the valves to leak. not suggesting you have the same issue but you might check if you have an air leak at a valve block.
Last edited by techniq808; 09-06-2015 at 11:31 AM.
#14
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The compressor will not come on while the engine is off. The car will occasionally wake up to adjust the suspension, but it can only let air out and "readjust", it cannot pump more air into the system until the engine is started.
The first step would be to pull fuse 26 (which is located under the hood in the battery compartment), and let the car sit for a day or so to see if any of the corners drop (or raise) during that time period.
I don't know how you did the dryer rebuild, but I would have to think the error codes may be related. Either a hole in an airline, a leaky valve, or perhaps a cracked dryer cap (maybe the most common) from tightening the screws too much or just from age. These are just my thoughts. You could try spraying some soapy water on and around the compressor before and during the time when you first turn it on to see if any bubbles form. If so, it may pinpoint your leak.
The first step would be to pull fuse 26 (which is located under the hood in the battery compartment), and let the car sit for a day or so to see if any of the corners drop (or raise) during that time period.
I don't know how you did the dryer rebuild, but I would have to think the error codes may be related. Either a hole in an airline, a leaky valve, or perhaps a cracked dryer cap (maybe the most common) from tightening the screws too much or just from age. These are just my thoughts. You could try spraying some soapy water on and around the compressor before and during the time when you first turn it on to see if any bubbles form. If so, it may pinpoint your leak.
#15
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Sorry. Fixed the video.
It turns out that the sound was the air compressor turning on. I didnt have the cover which is why it sounded so loud. Since there was no air in the tanks/bags, it kicked in and leveled the rear and stopped. Msg came on that said 'will continue leveling once compressor cools.'
Sure enough, about an hour later I turned it on again and the same noise came on and the front started to raise. Now I'm riding high again.
No more flashing 'suspension fault normal height only' msg but there is the yellow suspension fault light that comes on. Still going to troubleshoot that.
It turns out that the sound was the air compressor turning on. I didnt have the cover which is why it sounded so loud. Since there was no air in the tanks/bags, it kicked in and leveled the rear and stopped. Msg came on that said 'will continue leveling once compressor cools.'
Sure enough, about an hour later I turned it on again and the same noise came on and the front started to raise. Now I'm riding high again.
No more flashing 'suspension fault normal height only' msg but there is the yellow suspension fault light that comes on. Still going to troubleshoot that.
#16
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I don't know how you did the dryer rebuild, but I would have to think the error codes may be related. Either a hole in an airline, a leaky valve, or perhaps a cracked dryer cap (maybe the most common) from tightening the screws too much or just from age. These are just my thoughts. You could try spraying some soapy water on and around the compressor before and during the time when you first turn it on to see if any bubbles form. If so, it may pinpoint your leak.
I did double check the lines and the hoses being pressed all the way in where the ribbed mark on the line was pressed against the fittings. But the soapy water test is a good idea and I will give that a try. Thanks!
Also what is the difference if any when deciding to pull the F3 or F26 for the suspension? Same result?
Last edited by techniq808; 09-07-2015 at 09:52 AM.
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