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I was mistaken mechanic changed the Front Valve Block not the rear.He has ordered the rear Valve Block and will be putting that in this week.
He took cover off and said Compressor is marked made in Japan so is a Hitachi but ooks like new..
I have read dryer should be changed every certain amount of time maybe should do that as a maintenance?
Thanks
Just get a service kit for the compressor, no need to replace the drier.
Just get a service kit for the compressor, no need to replace the drier.
Service kit for the Compressor?
You mean Compressor and Dryer right ?
How much time is required to service / change the parts on the compressor and drier not including install ?
Front and Rear Valve Blocks changed and still have Suspension Fault Normal Height Only Indicator.
Oh brother.
Now will try a different scanner and see if something more revealing than Network Failure or what ever it was shows tomorrow.
What to do next ..new Compressor and Relay ?
In between waiting for parts it's running very well.
Just when start up Compressor starts ..runs for 30-50 seconds and when stops indicator light goes on.
Service kit for the Compressor?
You mean Compressor and Dryer right ?
How much time is required to service / change the parts on the compressor and drier not including install ?
You can do just the drier but you may as well get the full kit and rebuild the compressor as well, 2hrs at the most.
Have you checked the center valve block? I got system faults, raising slowly, compressor timed out, etc with no leaks or dropping. Turns out the center valve block wasn't keeping the air in the reservoir, so the compressor would run until it hit thermal limits.
Have you checked the center valve block? I got system faults, raising slowly, compressor timed out, etc with no leaks or dropping. Turns out the center valve block wasn't keeping the air in the reservoir, so the compressor would run until it hit thermal limits.
Oh my God now there's another Valve Block in the center ?
So there are 3 of them.
And with scanner not working how do we check center Valve Block.
Cause I'm just about to to buy Compressor..Relay and now Center Valve Block .
I noticed Compressor sounding quite loud and thought likely Compressor/ Dryer
Even with the scanner working, this one ended up being more of a guess. In my case nothing was leaking externally, and the system didn’t drop if I let it sit with the fuse pulled. It could raise (slowly) and lower, but the compressor would just run until it hit thermal limits. Also, it would throw the fault(s) within a short amount of time after driving. What led me to the center valve block was that it seemed the whole system was affected, not just the front or rear. Also, the reservoir never built up pressure.
The valve block was ~$30 on Amazon, so it was a cheap guess.
Hi..yes It was the Compressor...I hope.
Fault gone but once in a while new Compressor sounds noisy but seems to have settled down.
On another forum post a guy describes the Drier of Compressor failing causing the problem.
There is a kit sold by Lucky8 to repair Drier..there is a new Drier at Atlantic British but I bought a new compressor Hitachi OEM instead.We depend on this car and can't afford to compromise on it.
An OEM Compressor and Relay was at reasonable price at British Parts of Utah and at Autohaus.
This is the post.
