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Suspension Height Question and issue

Old Sep 7, 2020 | 04:18 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2K
Do you have the Hitachi and not the AMK compressor???? Might want to check, they're not compatible.

As for the lean/rich codes. Buy some "Mass Airflow Sensor" cleaner (don't use anything but that) and remove the 2 screws next to the airbox tube that hold the MAF sensor in. Give it a good cleaning AFTER it has cooled down 5 min and then reinstall after another 5 min when it's fully dry. DO NOT start the car with it still being wet to any degree, it'll wipe it out often times, it gets pre-heated when the ignition fires up on many cars. For me, this solved the issue but it took bout 10-15 drives for the code to drop off and not return. It slowly improved with every drive throwing the code less and less often, now it's finished, seems it re-learned the tables. Disco'd battery didn't fix it, had to drive it a while instead.

Gas cap not sealing can do the rich code and so could a bad O2 Sensor set, or lastly the EVAP system, all of which can be fixed.

-Greg
I have the hitachi pump. I checked. Good looking out though. I tried the MAF specific cleaner and it didn't work. I drove it for a week after that before I tried changing the MAF, and neither seemed to be a long-run fix. Have you had success with Autozone or napa sensors on the Rover?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 06:58 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by adamw412
I have the hitachi pump. I checked. Good looking out though. I tried the MAF specific cleaner and it didn't work. I drove it for a week after that before I tried changing the MAF, and neither seemed to be a long-run fix. Have you had success with Autozone or napa sensors on the Rover?
Generally I get by fine on aftermarket sensors and parts where people all swear you can't. YMMV
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 07:02 PM
  #13  
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Default But why?

...they aren't that expensive and to be honest I'm not convinced they ever fail. It's usually something else that gets blamed on sensors. Then when people replace them and recalibrate the problems go away but the root cause was never really the sensor, which is a simple potentiometer.
 

Last edited by houm_wa; Sep 8, 2020 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2020 | 07:50 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
...they aren't that expensive and to be honest I'm not convinced they ever fail. It's usually something else that gets blames on sensors. Then when people replace them and recalibrate the problems go away but the root cause was never really the sensor, which is a simple potentiometer.
I too think that occurs more often than folks realize.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 05:58 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2K
I too think that occurs more often than folks realize.
Either way, I'll keep the old MAP sensor when I change it just in case it doesn't fix the issue. But I received my rebuild kit in the mail yesterday. Tonight I will be removing the pump and beginning the rebuild, and reinstalling it tomorrow. That Autel scanner is pretty nice, but I'm having a heck of a time getting it to connect. The first connection was easy, but every time after that has been a ritual of removing and installing the unit, pairing and forgetting the device, allowing communication, and repeat until desired result. Took me 30 mins. yesterday to get it to connect. But, I was finally able to use it to program my new key from amazon. I paid $60 for the key and cut, and I programmed it using the Autel scanner, instead of the exhorbitant fees from the dealer. It's already paid for itself, irrespective of the headache involved. when I'm done with the pump, I might see if I can use it to recalibrate the wheel height sensors. Both forward and aft right suspension sets lower by .75" - 1" than the left.
 

Last edited by adamw412; Sep 11, 2020 at 06:02 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 10:37 AM
  #16  
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Getting conversion kit struts from air suspension, anyone done this?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 06:20 PM
  #17  
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So now I have a serious problem, I rebuilt the compressor and reinstalled it, and I cannot reinflate the system. I get a suspension fault after 10 seconds of pump running. Any clues? I have to get to work on Monday somehow. I’m still getting the C1A20- 64 fault, pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 07:26 PM
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You don't hear a leak? Is there a crack between the two line fitting on the drier cap?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 08:13 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
You don't hear a leak? Is there a crack between the two line fitting on the drier cap?
The kit I purchased has a brand new dryer cap. And it doesn’t pump long enough to hear any hissing. 5-10 seconds max. Then faults out.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 09:09 PM
  #20  
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Could the gallery pressure sensor be damaged/defective? Its on the center valve block. Its literally the only thing that can tell the ECU what the system pressure is.
 
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