Hey Guys,

So I've been getting an intermittent dashboard suspension warning and fault code C1A18-64 (2E) from the GAP ID Tool. It comes and goes, usually once every 2 weeks or so either on start up (goes away after a minute or so) or it comes on after driving for like 20 minutes or so.

The other day I heard a weird wooshing sound coming from the front driver side wheel well when I put the car into off-road height. And I got the catastrophic error where every warning light on the dashboard lights up. I turned the car off, let it sit for a bit and turned it back on, and it behaved as normal, no warnings. I checked the Gap ID Tool and it had a million faults, I cleared the faults, turned the car off again and started it up, only theC1A18-64 (2E) fault, and an I did a soapy water test and found a small hole in the rubber of the front driver side air strut. I did not find another struts leaking air.

Last night I did a suspension test, making sure the car was in road height, pulling the fuse overnight and measuring each wheel height. First measurement was last night and second measurement was this morning.

Measured from floor to bottom of wheel fender:
Front Left — before 83cm / after 80cm
Front Right — before 81cm / after 79cm
Rear Left — before 86cm / after 85cm
Rear Right — before 84cm / after 84cm

So, I've got a suspension problem.

OK, so here's my thought process:

1) The Front Driver side Air Strut is toast, needs to be replaced (I'm assuming)
2) Since both front corners dropped, the Front Passenger side air strut has a leak as well, or the front air valve needs to be cleaned or replaced? (soapy water test found no leaks in Front Passenger side air strut)
3) Rear Driver side air strut did drop 1cm, but withsoapy water test I did not find a leak.
4) Fault code C1A18-64 (2E) seems to be usually be associated with the middle valve block with the solenoid or the compressor. So I need to pull that valve block and clean it or replace it, before I buy a new compressor (which still seems to be working) though could be going? How do I determine if the problem with air compressor? The compressor is still working.

This is also compounded by the fact that I've only had the rig for a few years with no service history, I'm not very mechanically inclined, there are no real LR suspension places where I live and OEM parts take weeks to get here. But I'm dedicated to this rig, and I do have the mechanical inclination to put the rig on blocks to get at the valve blocks.

Does anyone have any advice on how to troubleshoot this effectively?

 

ll take a shot although there are many with much greater experience than me.

if one side has a leak, you may see both side drop. Either way, you will want to replace air struts in pairs. I would definitely take a look at your front valve block. Not a big deal to rebuild and worth a try. Being that there is some inconsistency depending on pressure, I would take a look at that front valve block. Bit if your air strut is leaking your going to have to deal with that too. I do not think it is a compressor issue.

I recently had similar issues and it ended up being the front valve block. Tried a rebuild but it failed, I think the rebuild kit was faulty. I ended up getting a Arnott valve block and it fixed the issue. But in the process I found a leaky strut and replaced the two front struts as well.

 

thanks for the advice. Yeah I took the compressor cover off last night to check the compressor and center valve block, both by sight and by Live Values on Gap ID Tool.

Live values looked good. and visual inspection, the compressor looks good, doesnt overheat, stays on for a while but that's probably because of the front strut leak. The center valve block solenoid makes the clicking sound, so I dont think it's stuck on open.

So my thinking is that I'll get 2 new front struts and new front valve block and see if that works.