Tailgate strut
Does anyone have input on how to best access the d pillar interior so i can get a nut up in there to reattach the tailgate strut. I assume ill have to cut a hole at the bottom inside the tail lamp bay.
First job after getting home with my 'new to me' '55 4.4 v8 last June was to deal with one of the rear door strut ball joint posts which had at some time come loose and someone had tried to refit it but in so doing had cross threaded it with the inevitable result, captive nut broke away and could neither be tightened or loosened.
As anyone who has tried to do this repair knows there is no access to the inside of the D post so repairs are very hard. A number of people have threaded wires in through one point or other, but having read the accounts of these I decided that there is an easier way and went about forming the access point LR should have.
Using a 30mm Bi-metal hole saw.
I cut this hole through 2 double layers of metal. First 2 photos above (dirt on head lining cleaned up).
This gave easier access to the back of the panel and now I could think of cutting the old post off and with a magnet retrieve the nut.
I did not want to use a small M8 nut to do the repair as they tend to be rather small and would not, in my opinion, cover sufficient area to make a good strong repair. I needed one of those nuts with the spayed end like a top hat, but the only 2 I had were very rusty and not of any use. I had to retrieve the captive nut.
I used a length of brass rod (brass because that is what I had), see photo 5, to reach in and with a magnet attached withdrew the nut as I cut it off.
By similar means (but with the nut held on with Araldite) and a good blob of Araldite on the nut to secure it in place, I was able to fit the new ball post in place, being careful not to cross thread it again.
With the the original captive nut I my hand I could see why it came away, its not welded to the retaining plate it's attached to, but is a form of rivnut and is crimped to the plate which is then spot welded to the inside of the D post. The nut itself is about 25mm diameter, donut shaped and on one side is the up-stand that is turned over to crimp it in place. When it is subjected to the unexpected forces excerpted when the posts come loose they then dislodge. If they had been welded to the plate instead or as well they might last longer.
The hole is cut close to the rear air bag module so take care and use a punch to centre the hole saw. There are no concealed wire to worry about.
Job done
I covered the cut hole with Gaffer tape to seal it
Brilliant. Thanks. That was my other access point option. I currently have the headliner out (water ingress repair) and saw that area as a good option.
Thanks for the photos and tips.
I hope this gets stickied.
Itll save people hundreds.
Thanks for the photos and tips.
I hope this gets stickied.
Itll save people hundreds.
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