Reading a thread about someone having a difficult time bleeding the system. I think I have a tip that may save some time and frustration.

When replacing the water pump or thermostat housing it is tempting to not unscrew the 3 Torx screws that hold the actual thermostat. Those screws just bite into plastic so it would be normal to think don't disturb them so they remain tight.

However, if you do remove them it allows you to pour coolant directly down into the pump and when you remove the hose for the top you can also pour coolant toward the radiator. I think this helps prime the pump and push air out of the system.

I struggled with air in the system after replacing my water pump earlier this year but after pouring in coolant both ways it solved the issue.

Also, suggest using a ODBII reader for the coolant temp for the actual reading. Don't rely on the gauge. This way you can see if the temps more accurately and if they are getting higher and shut it down before there is an issue. The gauge on the instrument cluster is more forgiving with high temps and won't move the needle into the red until later. If you see it getting toward 220 on the ODBII reader there is no reason to keep the engine on. Just shut it off and start diagnosing the issue.

 

Never rely on the instrument panel gauge! Its scale is, on purpose, calibrated to be very insensitive to temperature changes. There is an explanation for this and the scale in some workshop manual.

edit: you can find the gauge positions and corresponding temperature ranges here Analog devices dashboard. The dial is designed to move slowly..