Voltages are fine. Cold start, 14+ is good. Once warmed up, your voltages will be lower and just under 13 is fine.

Cluster seems like it maybe has cold solder joints at the connectors. Would maybe explain why handing it you had errors. Keep in mind the cluster is not just a cluster, it is for all intents the central hub for the communications network.

 

I'm thinking I had a bad alternator and that killed the battery. Those got replaced but for whatever reason the IC wasn't getting reset or seeing all clear after all the errors that were occurring. I'm not saying it's fixed, but unplugging the IC seems like it helped. I'll try this for a bit and seem how it goes, I'm still planning on getting a GAP tool so I'll have some better insight in the future.

Voltage when driving around 20mph, turning lights on, hazards, fans, etc, never dropped below 13.87v. I'll do more testing after it sits for a few hours.

 

The IC does not store codes.

 

So, interesting update. After sitting for about 4-5 hours, started it up, and within 2 minutes TPMS errors, then park brake, then HDC, etc. turn it off tried to get it started again, and won't start. U0167 error. decided to leave it till this morning. get back out, starts right up no errors, never cleared anything. runs for a bit, and no issues. turned it off, checked codes and have the lean bank and U0167. going to leave while i'm out and see what happens when I get back home. Battery was about 12.3v before starting it, and was about 13.94-13.96 while it was running.

 

Had a few let it run, started to pull the IC, and as soon as the I got it unbolted and barely moved it, errors show up. it's going in so hopefully that resolves this once and for all.

 

Sounds exactly the same as mine. Eagerly awaiting my repaired cluster. Supposed to be delivered to ClusterFix.net tomorrow. Hope they turn it quickly, but more importantly fix it.

 

Repaired cluster arrived and installed. So far so good!

I did need to clear all of the old faults with my scan tool (Autel MS906 BT). I had two IPC codes remain, parking brake module and TPMS module. I set and released the parking brake and both codes have not returned.

I’ll post back in a few days after some good driving, but I do believe ClusterFix.net fixed it!!!

 

Well, maybe not. It’s raining today. I started it up this evening just to move it into the garage and got the dreaded HDC, etc messages on the dash. Gotta figure out what’s getting wet. Come to think of it, it was raining last time too, before I sent off the cluster.

 

I looked again at the Transfer Case Control Module behind the battery and both driver and passenger sills around the sunroof drains and could not find any evidence of water. I drove it around for about 60 miles yesterday. No problems at all. Took it to the car wash to see if I could trigger the HDC etc. messages...nope, all good.

Since the cluster repair, I have only had the one instance of the HDC etc. error messages while raining outside, but what was different is that I no longer had the hazards flashing, the door locks triggering, the radio screen telling me "Vehicle Fault, System is Shutting Down", and a temporary no-crank no-start condition.

Also interesting to me is that I realized I had a brake light out and changed the bulb. I found it odd that my scan tool, through the "Active Test" feature of the Body Control Module, would trigger on/off all the lights, except the brake lights. Then I stumbled on the missing active test for brake lights under the VDM, Vehicle Dynamics Control Module. I triggered the brake lights on, and instantly lit up the dash with HDC Fault > DSC Off > Transmission Range Change Not Available > Special Programs Off messages and the related warning lights. Trigger the brake lights off and escape out of the active test, and all messages and lights go away. This leaves behind a slew of comm faults in history, but everything goes to normal. I went ahead and changed the brake light switch with a genuine LR part, but no change in behavior.

Where it stands now, I think the cluster repair fixed the hazards, door locks, vehicle fault, and temporary no-start. I do believe there may be a real comm fault or additional wiring problem somewhere yet to be discovered. I think it's stable enough to move on.

I'm about to tear into the timing set to get rid of a bad startup rattle and replace the water pump/t-stat housing/hoses, A/C compressor/condenser, tensioners and belts while I'm in there. Wish me luck!

 

What are you about to R&R on the timing set?