Hello Everyone.
First let me say these LR3 forums have been super helpful.
I purchased a used 2006 Range Rover LR3 V8 SE with 165,000 miles on it a few months back. It sat for 6 years with the owner only starting a few times per year. After fixing some minor stuff, I got the car to start and run and all the air suspension works with no problems. It has the 4.4 gas V8 and runs great. NO Indicator lights on the dash. Everything worked except the 4 wheel drive and brought up the Special Programs Off, System Fault Special Programs Not Available and Suspension Fault Normal Height Only on the dash screen. I read on this forum to check fuses, wiring and various other things. All checked out ok. I replaced the Transfer Case Module behind the battery with a same year module. The new transfer case module is very clean inside and out with no corrosion. I cleaned all the wire connectors and they are free of corrosion as well.
I reinstalled and attached the wire harnesses, installed the battery. When i start the car now, the HDC Fault System Not Available comes on the dash, other lights on the dash include the red Parke Brake, yellow Brake, Flashing Green Low Range light and yellow Critical Warning Mesage light (Triangle with circle around it with exclamation point in the middle). Also the Hi / Lo switches next to the Terrain **** in the center console are flashing.
The dealership is over 2 hours away and I am trying to figure this out on my own.
I do not have a GAP iid tool G3 but will buy one if needed.
Question: Does the replacement Transfer Case Module, with the same part number need to be Flashed or Calibrated. As stated everything else worked great prior to the faulty Transfer Case Module and drove and rode fantastic.
Please Help
If this is being repetitive I apologize, as I am new to working on Range Rovers.

 

Get a Gap tool.

You do not need to flash the new transfer case module, but it will produce a persistent code about VIN mismatch.

Go under and unplug the two connectors for the transfer case and plug them back in. Inspect the wiring.

 

Ok, I will try to get this done tonight. Also i do plan to purchase the Gap Tool soon.
I will update once the I have disconnected, cleaned and reconnected the Transfer case wire connectors.
thanks

 

I'd check battery health, check for wet floorboards, change the brake switch....but before all that I'd get that GAP tool.

 

Today, I did a battery check, Tests out great, Checked both connectors on the Transfer case and they are clean, traced wires as best as i could and there are not any breaks or bad wires underneath, in the engine compartment or under the carpet covers along the doors. Also double checked the fuses again and they are all good.
I read some other posts that stated that the Transfer Case Module has to be re-flashed, even if it is a used module. I don't know if this is true or not.
I am ordering a GAP tool next week as this is getting to be a pain in the butt.
Any other ideas or items i should check.

 

No more ideas until you get the GAP tool.

I don't think you understand, to be honest.....waiting to order a GAP tool is....not recommended. I'd almost advise someone to buy a GAP tool before they buy an LR3!!
It's essential.

 

Ok, so I bough a GAP IID Tool G3 and ran the codes. Not much showed up except a few that showed low battery voltage and a few miscellaneous codes. I cleared them all, charged the battery to full on the charger and reconnected the battery. It also shows that there is an update for the Transfer Case Module but I will need to purchase that to install it but from what I've also read, the replacement module should work and not need to be updated or re-flashed. Is this correct?
The battery shows a charging rate of 14.2 when running and a resting rate of 11.7 to 11.8, exactly 1 hour after the car engine is shut off and everything internally is turned off. (which I believe is considered a bad battery)

The replacement Transfer Case Module, which has the same module number as the original (the inside is pristine and all connectors on the module and harness are clean) still shows the same instrument warning lights as previous which are HDC Fault System Not Available comes on the dash, other lights on the dash include the red Parke Brake, yellow Brake, Flashing Green Low Range light and yellow Critical Warning Message light (Triangle with circle around it with exclamation point in the middle). Also the Hi / Lo switches next to the Terrain **** in the center console are flashing. It appears the vehicle is stuck in Low 4 wheel drive.

I reinstalled the old original Transfer Case Module, (which on the inside has a burnt area on the lower left inside and 2 of the chips broken off due to the burnt area) and all the above lights on the dash and the Hi/Lo switches around the Terrain **** stop flashing and the vehicle switches back to 2 wheel drive and is drivable. The only thing that comes up on the dash is the System Fault Special Programs Not Available, Suspension Fault Normal Ride Height Only and no 4x4 or terrain options. ( which was my original issues from the very beginning.

Could the fix be as simple as replacing the battery with a new battery with the correct resting/starting voltage of 12.4 and reinstalling the replacement Transfer Case Module?
Or should I also purchase a different Transfer Case Module in case the replacement one I have is bad?

As stated earlier, I also checked both connectors on the transfer case and they are clean, traced wires as best as I could and there are not any breaks or bad wires underneath, in the engine compartment or under the carpet covers along the doors. Also double checked the fuses again and they are all good.

Could there be an additional fuse somewhere or a fuse that that is mismarked or works in conjunction with a a different operation?
Any help or ideas that could be provided to help me fix the issues I am having would be greatly appreciated as I feel that i am missing something simple some where.
Thanks in advance

 

The transfer case module has an update that prevents damage. It is pretty much a must-do update. Your new module may or may not need updating.

Yeah, that sounds like a weak battery. If serviceable, open the caps and add distilled water. A non-sealed serviceable battery can last a long time.

The vehicle is always 4 wheel drive, it is never just two wheel drive. The transfer case just changes from high to low and will distribute torque as needed (more front or rear, etc). Did you calibrate after installing the new module? You must or it will not work right. Do that. Its in the menus somewhere and takes just second to do.

 

DakotaTraveler, Thanks for the response. I didn't realize the LR3 was full time 4 wheel drive. (assumed with the toggle options that is was more like my truck when switching from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive). thanks for the knowledge.
I will be purchasing a new battery as the one that is in the car does not have any dates on it and I have no idea on when it was actually replaced by the previous owner.
After reading so much in regards to voltage at start up on these vehicles, that this will be best to do for my own sake.
Do you know if the update has to come from Bell Auto Services (BAS) or is it installed on the GAP IID Tool?
I have not calibrated as of yet as i just received the GAP IID tool.
Do you think the new battery, update and the calibration will or could solve all the issues?
It's so strange the the old original TCM with the burnt section and missing 2 of the chips seems to have no warning lights on the dash but none of the terrain functions.
Anything else I should look at while dong the others above?
thanks so much, you've been very helpful.

 

Not clue who Bell Auto Services is. You order updates from GAP then connect the tool online to upload them into it. Then when you put the GAP tool back in the Rover, you will find the update listed in the menus. It sounds a little complicated, but it is not. I have done many updates.

Do the calibration, it may resolve your issues but you do need that new battery either way, again unless it is serviceable and each cell can be opened and topped off - at which point you want it back on the charger again.