The GAP online manual references Bell Services alot but yes i believe i can order through GAP if needed.
I will get the new battery and calibrate the TCM tomorrow as the GAP Tool Manuel instructs and see what happens.
fingers crossed.
thanks for the help.

 

I think Bell is for UK users, are you in the UK?

 

No, I'm in USA. Columbia, Missouri

 

When you do the updates or other Gap tasks, make sure to have another charged battery or a good charger on hand. The engine will have to be off and if your voltage isn't good enough the Gap will not do the updates.

houm-wa is 100% correct about the Gap tool. If you are going to have a LR3 you need this for *everything*. Everyone-If you have deep enough pockets to run off to the garage every time your LR3 does something silly you can probably afford something newer. The expense of maintenance was why I got my latest LR3 for $500, the former owner couldn't find a garage to work on it properly, apparently they didn't have the Gap or the internet.

 

Ok, replaced the battery with a brand new on and made sure it was fully charged before putting it into the vehicle.
Per GAP, they said sad the Transfer Case Module I bought was up to date but the GAP Tool says there is an update available. Should I purchase the update version from GAP?
Also, per GAP and Dakota Traveler, they both suggested a calibration. I calibrated the Clutch with no problem and thought the calibration of the Position Sensor went through but when i tried to calibrate the Position Sensor again to be sure, It brings up an Operation Failed E7.I did this per the GAP instructions from their email and per the GAP tools intructions.
Any idea on what this code error is?
I double checked all the fuses again and all are good.
I also cleaned ALL the grounds on both driver side and passenger A pillars by the floor board. Are there any others I should look at?
Also, On the front door sills, how do i remove the bottom hard plastic area to inspect those wires for any breaks?
Still having the same problems as before.


Here is a pic of the issues on the Instrument cluster.
The Low green light on the dash blinks and the terrain **** is blinking from the HI/LOW switch selector.
Anyone have any ideas on what else it could be that I can check?
I've read that this happens alot on these vehicles but still can't find the root cause.
This is getting very frustrating.
Thanks again for all and any advise ahead of time.

 

The calibration issue is concerning. I would crawl under and pull the actor motor. The gear is plastic but there is a metal upgrade made for a reason. These transfer cases are used in several vehicles. So lets check the gear and make sure its not damaged. I actually think mine is, but that is another topic.... Gotta love all this electronic crap!

 

Is that the transfer case shift motor? I think it has the plastic gear inside of it. Is that the right part?
or is it a different part?
Could it be the solenoid itself? I did disconnect and clean the plug connectors and checked the wiring and all seemed good.

 

Yes. No fluid should come out. Three bolts maybe? Then yes... next would be the solenoid. There are a few write-ups on how that is done and there must be some specific care taken but its not a big issue to service and I think minimal fluid comes out, so again no need to drain.

 

OK, I will check that in a few days once I can get the vehicle back in the garage and on ramps.
I hate to think that the new/used Transfer Case module i bought is bad but I guess that could also be the case as well.
Thanks I will update once checked.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!! (Fingers Crossed) After many hours of tracing suggestions from the LR Forums, I finally solved my problem with dash lights Flashing Lo symbol and flashing Terrain Module lights on center console.
Over all, I think the main issue was a blown 30 amp J fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. The actual location was FL3 and is for the the transmission.
Other simple, cost effective things I replaced and fixed were the brake light sensor, 2 new LR brake light bulbs, changed out many questionable fuses, replaced all 4 sunroof drain tubes (all were bad and rotted), leaned up numerous corroded grounds throughout the vehicle, replaced the TCCM, Cleaned up numerous connectors with corrosion and correctly repaired the red wire splice and green/white wire splice both in the passenger side floor rail.
So far the vehicle runs and preforms like a champ. 4 wheel low and all special functions are now working.
Thank you to everyone for all your suggestions and things to check during this struggle. Also the forums are great to read through and were very helpful in eliminating potential culprits.
I did us my GAP IIDTool G3 all the time but it never actually identified what exactly was wrong. I think this is because so much of the electrical system operates through so many different components, that if a few things are potentially bad or off, it throws the whole system off.
Thanks again everyone.