My LR3 stinks! Water inside.
#1
My LR3 stinks! Water inside.
Recent rains here in SoCal have left a large puddle of water in my LR3. This evening was the first drive in a couple of days. Soaked three towels with water and used my shop vacuum for a few minutes. To get as much up as possible. Time for dessicant? Windows are down. It’s parked outside, so I can’t really use a fan tonight.
Last time I checked, the sunroof drain connector looked good. I did put a roof rack on this year. Is that as likely where the water is coming in or are the mount through holes sealed?
What have you done to seal you mounting points? Bead of silicone around the feet? That will be a pain with the tent on there.
Last time I checked, the sunroof drain connector looked good. I did put a roof rack on this year. Is that as likely where the water is coming in or are the mount through holes sealed?
What have you done to seal you mounting points? Bead of silicone around the feet? That will be a pain with the tent on there.
#3
Interesting... I too have just found that the passengers side front floor is wet as well as some wetness in the rear passenger floor as well. just the floor.... under the wether tech floor mats. Drain lines, eh!! this is why I have never liked sun roofs. At least your in socal. Here in Philly, its getting close to freezing.
#4
Thanks Abran. That saves me a lot of work. The drains have been done at least once already by the dealer. I also found a bunch of water in the rear passenger side, like Jeff.
im not familiar with leaky cowl, will have to search that topic.
I did have the windshield replaced this year. I asked them specifically to make sure to seal it well, as I had read about leaky replacements. I’ll dig in to the drains and dry out the wiring channel really well. I may even put some dielectric grease on any connectors I find to prevent future issues.
Tempted to temporarily seal up the sunroof as I never open it
Is it worth paying someone to do the drains who has done it a bunch of times? I usually spend many hours researching and them doing it, at some point it’s not cost effective.
im not familiar with leaky cowl, will have to search that topic.
I did have the windshield replaced this year. I asked them specifically to make sure to seal it well, as I had read about leaky replacements. I’ll dig in to the drains and dry out the wiring channel really well. I may even put some dielectric grease on any connectors I find to prevent future issues.
Tempted to temporarily seal up the sunroof as I never open it
Is it worth paying someone to do the drains who has done it a bunch of times? I usually spend many hours researching and them doing it, at some point it’s not cost effective.
#6
Three leak points:
Sunroof drains, there are FOUR. Driver side front, easy to get to. Passenger side, hard to view and wicked difficult to replace. If you can not view it form the inside, carefully remove the intake Gille by firmly lifting up and hinging the bottom out slowly (the plastic breaks fairly easily). Then remove the rubber inserts. You can see the drain end. The rears seem less an issue as Rover loops the drain hoses upwards a little. They seems to function as backups or only when parked back on a steep incline. Solution, replace the entire lines or cut and connect updated ends. The very ends are not available as standalone parts.
A-Pillar exterior trim. Well documented leak point. New trim comes with a much better design and retainers. A less expensive service kit can also solve the issue if done properly. A dealer did mine incorrectly.
Windshield cowl. It can warp and create a gap. No issue here unless the gap happens above the HVAC inlet. Then water can pour right in, soaking the air filter and getting into the blower.
Attached is an image of the old and new drains. The old style, the cross type, can easily clog with dirt. Over time the dirt accumulates and holds back water and moisture. If really bad the line will fill up and overflow from above. The continued moisture will also rot the rubber causing the end to break apart. When that happens the tubes will drain, but straight inside the cabin. The new ends flow better and have the additional protection of a nylon insert to protect the rubber itself.
Sunroof drains, there are FOUR. Driver side front, easy to get to. Passenger side, hard to view and wicked difficult to replace. If you can not view it form the inside, carefully remove the intake Gille by firmly lifting up and hinging the bottom out slowly (the plastic breaks fairly easily). Then remove the rubber inserts. You can see the drain end. The rears seem less an issue as Rover loops the drain hoses upwards a little. They seems to function as backups or only when parked back on a steep incline. Solution, replace the entire lines or cut and connect updated ends. The very ends are not available as standalone parts.
A-Pillar exterior trim. Well documented leak point. New trim comes with a much better design and retainers. A less expensive service kit can also solve the issue if done properly. A dealer did mine incorrectly.
Windshield cowl. It can warp and create a gap. No issue here unless the gap happens above the HVAC inlet. Then water can pour right in, soaking the air filter and getting into the blower.
Attached is an image of the old and new drains. The old style, the cross type, can easily clog with dirt. Over time the dirt accumulates and holds back water and moisture. If really bad the line will fill up and overflow from above. The continued moisture will also rot the rubber causing the end to break apart. When that happens the tubes will drain, but straight inside the cabin. The new ends flow better and have the additional protection of a nylon insert to protect the rubber itself.
#7
Love you guys! Really appreciate the effort!
I looked at the cowl this morning (while I was replacing the wet towels with dry ones) and it has a nice gap in an area right around the heater/aircon. I’ll probably tape it to the windshield temporarily while I order a new cowl. Just replaced it on my D2.
None of the A pillars, interior light or headliner show any signs of dampness.
There are some great posts on the subject.
I looked at the cowl this morning (while I was replacing the wet towels with dry ones) and it has a nice gap in an area right around the heater/aircon. I’ll probably tape it to the windshield temporarily while I order a new cowl. Just replaced it on my D2.
None of the A pillars, interior light or headliner show any signs of dampness.
There are some great posts on the subject.
#8
I found that the cold weather electrical tape works really well to seal the cowl. While you may not be in a cold climate, that particular tape has more flex and better adhesive properties. Mine did not leave any film when removing before installing a new cowl. A cowl is not hard to install and costs less than $100. But I HIGHLY recommend you do the a-pillar repair at the same time as having the a-pillar trim removed makes the cowl install much easier.
As for the a-pillars. They will not show dampness inside. They are double walled. That does not mean they are not leaking and draining into the cabin. Usually when the a-pillars dampen inside its because the sunroof drain tubes have back-up.
As for the a-pillars. They will not show dampness inside. They are double walled. That does not mean they are not leaking and draining into the cabin. Usually when the a-pillars dampen inside its because the sunroof drain tubes have back-up.
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Geo (12-01-2018)
#9
#10
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-...W/263890952859
$84 shipped plus sipping. That was a quick search, might be able to locate an even less expensive source. Always get a genuine one over aftermarket for this item.
$84 shipped plus sipping. That was a quick search, might be able to locate an even less expensive source. Always get a genuine one over aftermarket for this item.