Everybody does, including Ford!

 

In my immediate family we currently have 6 LR3,LR4, RRS vehicles, not to mention all the previous ones we have owned. My wife and I own and operate a Land Rover repair shop. We recommend trans service to every vehicle that comes in that has not had the service starting at 70k miles.

We do on average a trans service a week.

I have never, not once, done a service to a trans that was working properly and had a bad outcome. I’ve even done software updates and adaption resets on transmissions with over 200k miles without issue, which is not recommended.

In my experience the idea that old fluid is the only thing holding your trans together, is false. But if it were true, I’d rather force the issue to appear then thousands of miles away from home.

 

I’ve now called 8 places that supposedly specialize in ZF transmission makes, and none of them want to touch it with a 10 ft pole. Only my indie LR shop recommends any service, and they recommend a flush.

 

Crazy.

 

I’m still very conflicted on what to do. I think $950 for a flush is about $400 too high.

I very much respect mechanics not wanting to do a pan swap on a 20 year vehicle, especially when the manufacturer recommendations say don’t touch it but I know doing something is the right thing.

I’m probably going to try to coax one of the non-LR shops I’ve been happy with before into doing the AB pan swap by pairing it with some easier work.

 

I would agree on the price for drain and refill, if they are hooking up to a machine and doing a flush, not sure what that involves or how much the machine costs. FYI, we drain, change the filter, reassemble and fill. As mentioned that does not change 100% of the fluid. All my comments are based on this method. This method uses 8 liters of fluid +/-.

I’m not going to help you with this, but Land Rover says do not service the trans. ZF says every 70k miles or earlier if towing or extreme use.

if you do the pan, make sure to use a genuine ZF filter, change the Mechatronics sleeve, convert to metal pan, and the most important… use this pan gasket.

TOS 18753, felpro



It’s aluminum crush material with an over molded rubber gasket type edge.

good luck

 

Thanks for the input everyone. I’ve checked around to another half dozen shops and no one wants to touch it except the indie Land Rover shop. Their lot is full of LR3s and LR4s I trust this shop and he was strong in his recommendation that it be serviced. I just think his price is too high.

I am getting the sense that a lot of places have really cut back on transmission maintenance services with “sealed” transmissions becoming the norm.

I am a bit skittish with doing a drain and fill in the driveway because space is tight and you have to complete the fill with a hot running car. I’m also missing the protective plate and heat shield for the transmission when I look underneath. Makes access easier but I will likely get a used heat shield and some skid plates.

 

Correction , you don't drain and fill on a hot car you only need it up to temp to check the fluid level. If you drain the fluid then refill by the same amount you will be within 0.1L of the correct level.

 

I bought 2 5L buckets at Home Deppt.that have measurement lines. I plan to drain into one and then pump in the same amount after measuring it out in the 2nd bucket.

 

The initial drain and fill is on a cold car but every video I’ve seen shows a topping off of 3-4 quarts and replacement of the fill plug in a running car. The fill plug replacement on a running car has me nervous. They all lead you to believe if you let the car coil fluid will come rushing out and won’t be at the right level. Every other drain and/or pan drop on every other vehicle I’ve done has simply been turning the engine on and cycling through the gears and then turning off and tipping off. I just don’t get it.

Every model has a maintenance repair that is needlessly a PITA. For my F150, it was spark plugs. For the LR3 it’s the transmission.