1. TRANSMISSION PAN has a slow leak see comments from local LR repair shop - on the transmission leaking - the transmission pan w/ filter and the harness sleeve needs to be replaced

-all factory parts - $2200

Since the LR3 has over 215K miles, Were concerned that when we do the transmission pan, the exhaust downpipe bolts

might seize and if that's the case, there will be more problems and labor.

There's an aftermarket replacement part available for the transmission pan where we won't need to go through the downpipe.

We've never used it before but if you want to go that route, it is less expensive than the factory parts.

-non factory transmission pan installed- $1400
2 TRANSFER CASE LEAK-on the transfer case leaking-the front output shaft seal is leaking.

-factory output shaft seal replaced -$750

Any thoughts ? I can't repair myself ......

 

About the transmission - I imagine most people do not go for “genuine” [LR] for the pan because getting it in place is a rather involved operation. There are plenty of aftermarket ones. If you want something that works for sure you can get ZF’s official metal pan and separate filter. For example from here https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr...-1579920-p.asp

I’m sure there are many threads on how to get rid of the old pan with integrated filter but usually people saw it or just bend it till it breaks.

The sleeve is cheap and it really makes sense to sense to replace it at the same time since you can get to it only with the pan off.

Don’t have an opinion on the transfer case.

Also I don’t have an opinion on the labor rates over there but they have to be insane. For reference, I’d pay for a generic aftermarket metal pan (not the one I pasted), install, about 10 liters of quality ATF (Fuchs Titan), a mega flush (exchange really) with a machine in total about 650-700 euro inclusive 24% VAT. Which makes your quote 3x higher.

 

Get an upgraded pan kit from Atlantic British. It includes a metal pan, upgraded filter that's in 2 pieces so you don't have to remove the cross member again and the electronics sleeve.

When removing the old pan just hacksaw through the filter neck then remove it without having to get things like the downpipe or cross member out of the way

 

Thank you - interesting & informative post

 

Thank you for your input - very helpfull

 

That transfer case leak price seems pretty good to me actually. That is because the transfer case will have to be removed, completely opened up, taken apart and new seals put in. I would not do one seal, I would do the input and both outputs. Since most of the labor is R&R, it should not be much more to do them all. I have seals that leak too but just use Blue Devil leak stop and that has worked just fine. Replacement transfer case is on hand, I plan to just swap to a low milage one.

For trans, best advice already given. Also the exhaust bolts will be rusted up good anyway. But really that is not a huge deal to fix. But if you go metal pan conversion route, no worries anyway. If you have DIY abilities, all of this is something you can do yourself.

 

If you consider doing it yourself, here's a video of the process from Atlantic British

 

Dont saw the filter stub, a good side whack and it will snap off.