Transmission rebuild
#42
10-29-2021, 01:15 PM
Drifting
The exploded view is available free here: Attachment 53308. It's the full parts catalog but shows all the various torque numbers, order of assembly, etc. As for removing the bushings, whatever it takes to get them out but that's an interesting way to get them out. The ones that I didn't do were more because I didn't want to disassemble the planetary and there was zero play in those. Plus, I was running short on time and patience so, back together it went.
I did a full rebuild on the mechatronic unit. Sonnax shift kit, separator plate, and solenoids. In order to put the Sonnax kit in, you have to separate the mechatronic because the clips that hold the plungers in are captive between the halves. Once you separate the two halves, there is no saving that separator plate and reusing it. That is definitely a one use only item and one of the places I checked four or five times to make sure I had the check ***** in the right place. At around $100 for a separator plate, not something you want to buy multiple of.
For plugging the vent and cooler holes, no trick. My only comment about the vent hole was more in jest because when I had it on a stand and did the fill, I didn't even think about plugging it. My foot started feeling weird and when I looked down, I had a shoe full of trans fluid. I didn't want those shoes anyways!
There really aren't any tricks to doing a ZF. It's a very simple transmission and very strong for a Land Rover application; the one in the LR3 is good for 400+hp. Like I commented before, I had 165k miles and the clutch stacks were definitely within tolerance.
One last thing, this manual Attachment 53309 shows all of the check ***** on pages 34-35 but I remember not all of these being in there. Like, two weren't applicable to the LR version of the 6HP26. When separating the halves of the body, make sure you do it so the ***** are in the passageways and you can check where they are. I had printed those pages and circled the ones I found and when I reassembled, only put the ***** back that I took out. The Sonnax kit comes with all of the replacement ***** and there are locations in the body for them, but I didn't find it when I disassembled so I didn't put them in.
Easy peasy.
I did a full rebuild on the mechatronic unit. Sonnax shift kit, separator plate, and solenoids. In order to put the Sonnax kit in, you have to separate the mechatronic because the clips that hold the plungers in are captive between the halves. Once you separate the two halves, there is no saving that separator plate and reusing it. That is definitely a one use only item and one of the places I checked four or five times to make sure I had the check ***** in the right place. At around $100 for a separator plate, not something you want to buy multiple of.
For plugging the vent and cooler holes, no trick. My only comment about the vent hole was more in jest because when I had it on a stand and did the fill, I didn't even think about plugging it. My foot started feeling weird and when I looked down, I had a shoe full of trans fluid. I didn't want those shoes anyways!
There really aren't any tricks to doing a ZF. It's a very simple transmission and very strong for a Land Rover application; the one in the LR3 is good for 400+hp. Like I commented before, I had 165k miles and the clutch stacks were definitely within tolerance.
One last thing, this manual Attachment 53309 shows all of the check ***** on pages 34-35 but I remember not all of these being in there. Like, two weren't applicable to the LR version of the 6HP26. When separating the halves of the body, make sure you do it so the ***** are in the passageways and you can check where they are. I had printed those pages and circled the ones I found and when I reassembled, only put the ***** back that I took out. The Sonnax kit comes with all of the replacement ***** and there are locations in the body for them, but I didn't find it when I disassembled so I didn't put them in.
Easy peasy.
I notice that 8 of the 9 pockets have a small X score next to them. Wondering if others have noticed this or if it was done on a previous rebuild.
Also, if anyone knows which pockets that for sure need a check ball, please let me know.
2005 LR3 SE with 225,000 miles.
#43
09-11-2022, 08:07 PM
Revive this thread -
I'm trying to determine if my transmission needs to be rebuild or not.
1. transmission is leaking out of the bell housing hole, has lost all its fluid.
2. prior to that I put in a new transfer box
3. On a testdrive, i reset adaptations, then put it into drive, then slowly lost traction until I could no longer get any purchase in drive or reverse. (although I could get it to catch a little in lo gear rock-crawl mode)
4. it makes a clickety clack sound when I put it back into park.
Before I drop the transfer box and all related parts to drop the transmission, how could I begin to diagnose this? There's alot of guys on this thread that know alot about this transmission.
I'm trying to determine if my transmission needs to be rebuild or not.
1. transmission is leaking out of the bell housing hole, has lost all its fluid.
2. prior to that I put in a new transfer box
3. On a testdrive, i reset adaptations, then put it into drive, then slowly lost traction until I could no longer get any purchase in drive or reverse. (although I could get it to catch a little in lo gear rock-crawl mode)
4. it makes a clickety clack sound when I put it back into park.
Before I drop the transfer box and all related parts to drop the transmission, how could I begin to diagnose this? There's alot of guys on this thread that know alot about this transmission.
Last edited by martymart; 09-12-2022 at 06:41 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post