Also, are LR3s charging system compatible with AGM batteries

 

Ok, clean as best as I could ground connection and brand new DieHard Gold battery.

wish me luck.

 

No issues with AGM here.

 

Do you off road often? I would like to hear more of you experience. I was talked out of a AGM since Advanced Auto who carries DieHard talked me out of the AGM due to their unreliability when off-roading.

I thought the AGM was supposed to be better with vibration, but I was in a pinch and needed to atleast get this issue behind me. On borrowed time until I fly back home.

And I might be going with a other brand in future as it seems the newer DieHards are no my Dad's old Sears DieHards.

 

99% of multiple codes, including eu167 are released to prolonged water intrusion into the cabin, wet floorboards, especially on passenger side. I would start there.Most electrical related problems on LR3,LR4 could be avoided if owners paid attention to usual water leaks damaging splices and wires in waterlogged footwells in general.

 

Wouldt crank this morning. “New” battery showing 12.5V. Not sure that’s enough

 

Ok, with battery terminals off, battery shows 12.76V. Seems kind of high.

with battery terminals connected, shows 12.56V. Ok, when connecting battery to truck their will be a draw down, but shouldn’t be that much.

took the battery terminals back off, Battery shows 12.66V

did this all within a 5 minute period. Didn’t even try to start within that period.

should be enough to start truck, but still getting the same U-code. I seem to be making things worse.

WTF!

 

I was thinking there as well, but son has said he never noticed anything and the truck as not been in my purview since he’s taken it wo WP, then Germany, then fort Rucker and now at fort carson.

the truck will run fine (if it starts) the. All of the sudden the systems start such as a/c going out, radio saying shutting down, blinkers flashing etc. then a few minutes later everything comes back.

going to order the fuse block Dakota mentioned (lucky8 seems to be my quickest option and start pulling the glove box down checking behind carpet, remove cluster and inspect harness and wiring.

after that, just drink heavily and see if that fixes it.😆

 

12.5 is plenty for cranking and anything around the 12.7-13V is technically full , is there any sounds like relay clicking ?

 

You do not need to order the fuse block, you can get just the fuse from most auto shops. I think it is rated 400amp.

AGM is fine.

The faulty ground I thought was at the frame of the wheel well or maybe on the fender itself. It is not a large main, but probably a few wires with an acorn nut. There is a second at the back of the wheel well that goes into panel work, gain acorn nut.

Did you ever check the actual main ground from battery to body?