Wow, in general I'm really impressed.

This was kinda a last-minute purchase, but our event photography business really needed this, and it should open a lot of new doors for us.

I was tossing around the idea of some newer designs which are smaller but have decent amenities (slide-out, convection oven, wifi booster, random stuff) etc. But at the end of the day, the unit was a small 16' which limits the amount of help we could hire / put up for weekend events, and general comfort.

I ended up talking them down on my dream trailer, 30' w/ big slide out, rear lounge (two swivel / lounge chairs and huge rear window) - seems like the right decision, but it's BIG and at 5845lbs and 615lb tongue weight, right at the "limit" of what you'd want to tow with an LR3.

Now that's on paper - in the real world, I already have lots of experience towing 6klbs with large horse trailers, large boats, etc. RRS and LR3 had no issues. This was no different - the only large change was the sway effect when 18-wheelers pass you at high speed. The way it kicks the trailer out pushes the hitch out, thus tow vehicle in towards the tractor trailer. Typical thing, but LR says no weight-distribution hitch, and I think I'm used to it now.

Power wasn't a huge issue, but there were times I was in 3rd gear on the highway (ouch) and I only ever get back into 6th if I was on a downhill zone.

I still got over 10mpg, which surprised me for an 11-year-old vehicle and almost 13,000lb GCVWR.

ANYWAYS - I'm debating selling the LR3 now, or keeping it into the winter. Either way I'm getting an LR4, but buying a used one so soon after getting the RV is kinda tough for me.

Under high loads (up hills, lower gears, then downshifting, etc..) I can feel a noticeable vibration in the rear, if you let off the throttle it goes away. I assume this has to be a rear driveshaft issue? I'm guessing the center support bearing has torn?

Front differential is getting noisy too, but I don't plan on replacing that myself. I may do one additional fluid change with some LubroMoly anti friction / ceramic additive to get me through the season then sell it. My RRS had both diffs replaced under warranty, and this LR3 has only had the rear replaced - obviously front isn't under warranty now.

I have two more trips to Tryon NC and Lexington KY from Northern VA - about 850 miles round trip for each.

Should I keep it and do the driveshaft? Big service? Starter and alternator are new, I have a new tstat housing (both pieces/complete) to install. New inner/outer tie rods, checked ball joints etc.

Sell it now? I was surprised to find a complete rear driveshaft unit for $350 (figured they were $900). Found a used one from an '08 with a 1 year warranty for $220 which might be my best bet.

Kinda lost here, but either way in three weeks we're going on the first of the 850mi trips, so I need to start working on stuff. FWIW I did lower it to stock height and put the stock 19" HSE wheels back on (30" dia vs. 32") which helped A LOT!

 

I don't care what Land Rover says, I would be using a weight distribution hitch with a anti sway bar as well. Even with a F250 that I owned I did this when towing a long and heavy trailer. Loaded it was around 6900 lbs, and once I towed it with a Grand Cherokee in an emergency, without the above mentioned equipment. But it didn't feel safe and I would never repeat for long distances.

Regarding your vibration issue from the rear, try rotating the tires, as I had a vibration in the rear that is now in the front after rotating.

 

Well I'm pretty familiar with wheel / tire vibrations (unfortunately) - I still have one of those also (typical; ~55mph slight vibration).

The biggest red flag with that is the fact that the vibration is only under high load. At the same given speed it will immediately go away if I reduce power (happens very rarely when I daily drive it, this was obvious w/ the trailer). Balance issues or even alignment issues are usually speed related and won't change w/ throttle / load. I've just heard from many that the carrier bearing in the middle of the driveshaft can tear the rubber surround and allow slack / mis-alignment and vibration.

I understand the F250 argument, but they don't exactly make the best daily drivers - for now I'll have to stick with the LR3 / LR4 option - though having 17% or so spare on your tow ratings is a good number still.

I must say though, unless the grand cherokee was a newer model (with QuadraLift air suspension) that would TOTALLY be comparing apples to oranges. One of the primary things that makes the LRs such a good tow vehicle (other than the weight) is the EAS. I would hit uneven bridge transitions (asphalt to concrete, with big dips / rises) at about 65mph that would send most rigs into a bouncing frenzy, and this just flattens through it with incredible confidence and zero change in any trajectory.

From what I've heard, the incremental adjustments EAS makes, as well as the functionality of the many accelerometers for DSC, can be "tricked" and otherwise inhibited by some of the WD hitch systems. I don't really want to mess with that. They didn't specifically say sway, but it sounded like they meant all systems.

I REALLY want the new LR4 w/ surround-camera + tow assist options, as that system has the "tracking sticker" you put on the trailer, and will actively dampen trailer sway automatically - sounds like a gimmick but some of the videos are really impressive.

Plus an extra 80+ HP wouldn't hurt either.