Uncommon Keyless Remote Issue (not Sunroof or Door Sill H20 Related)
#1
10-27-2015, 06:25 PM
Uncommon Keyless Remote Issue (not Sunroof or Door Sill H20 Related)
Another keyless remote issue, I apologize, but I have exhausted all forum recommendations for repair. I have 2 remotes that I routinely swap out to make sure internal batteries stay charged, both do not work today. The situation is:
> Yesterday I went to 2 stores and LR3 locked but would not unlock. Had to use manually door key to get back in... setting off alarm until started engine.
> Today, no lock/unlock function from both keyless remotes at all.
> Couple hours of reading forums later... I tore apart passenger side floor/door sill and repaired all connections, plus heat shrink. There was loose connections that needed repair, but no current moisture. (always in garage)
> Tested BOTH remotes, neither worked.
> I did also flush out the Sunroof vent lines with compressed air, all 100%. To my surprise they were clean and functioning...
> Next, tested power signal before and after all connections in passenger door sill to be confident they were processing signal correctly, no issues. I also opened up driver side to be sure there was not ANY connections possibly missed. There was none.
> RF Receiver is getting power, green wire with white tracer is supplying power. The other wire exiting the RF receiver has no signal, as I assume this is outgoing once a RF signal is received from remote?
> Checked all fuses. Pulled F40 & F43 fuses. All good...
> Currently I left truck battery disconnected for the night in hopes that some kind of miracle happens as a hard reset.
2005 Land Rover Discovery 3 (LR3)
Appreciate any detailed feedback or other recommendations to try. Receiver Module and RF Transmitter could be next on the agenda to diagnose/replace? Thank you! I am in Raleigh, NC if anyone is local to assist. (I buy quality booze)
> Yesterday I went to 2 stores and LR3 locked but would not unlock. Had to use manually door key to get back in... setting off alarm until started engine.
> Today, no lock/unlock function from both keyless remotes at all.
> Couple hours of reading forums later... I tore apart passenger side floor/door sill and repaired all connections, plus heat shrink. There was loose connections that needed repair, but no current moisture. (always in garage)
> Tested BOTH remotes, neither worked.
> I did also flush out the Sunroof vent lines with compressed air, all 100%. To my surprise they were clean and functioning...
> Next, tested power signal before and after all connections in passenger door sill to be confident they were processing signal correctly, no issues. I also opened up driver side to be sure there was not ANY connections possibly missed. There was none.
> RF Receiver is getting power, green wire with white tracer is supplying power. The other wire exiting the RF receiver has no signal, as I assume this is outgoing once a RF signal is received from remote?
> Checked all fuses. Pulled F40 & F43 fuses. All good...
> Currently I left truck battery disconnected for the night in hopes that some kind of miracle happens as a hard reset.
2005 Land Rover Discovery 3 (LR3)
Appreciate any detailed feedback or other recommendations to try. Receiver Module and RF Transmitter could be next on the agenda to diagnose/replace? Thank you! I am in Raleigh, NC if anyone is local to assist. (I buy quality booze)
Last edited by JEbmwRX1; 10-27-2015 at 06:39 PM.
#2
10-27-2015, 06:32 PM
Could a poor connection in the door sill cause my remotes to need reprogrammed? Both have been 100% before yesterday.
I am down to the following:
1. Reprogram Remotes, do I need dealer?
2. Replace Receiver
3. Diagnose Module?
Thanks for the call today, member: "abran"
I am down to the following:
1. Reprogram Remotes, do I need dealer?
2. Replace Receiver
3. Diagnose Module?
Thanks for the call today, member: "abran"
Last edited by JEbmwRX1; 10-27-2015 at 06:38 PM.
#3
10-28-2015, 01:54 PM
If the key starts the vehicle, reprogramming it will do nothing for you, same programming from starting as remote function.
How much power are you getting there? Full battery voltage?
If so, and the ground is good, try with another remote(any vehicle, just needs to be 315MHz) to see if you then get a signal on the other wire, this will tell you if the receiver is good/failed(I've only ever had to replace 1 of these)
If you're getting a signal with another remote, then your remotes are bad, likely a bad solder joint inside the housing, which has been covered on here with how to fix.
How much power are you getting there? Full battery voltage?
If so, and the ground is good, try with another remote(any vehicle, just needs to be 315MHz) to see if you then get a signal on the other wire, this will tell you if the receiver is good/failed(I've only ever had to replace 1 of these)
If you're getting a signal with another remote, then your remotes are bad, likely a bad solder joint inside the housing, which has been covered on here with how to fix.
#4
10-28-2015, 02:05 PM
If the key starts the vehicle, reprogramming it will do nothing for you, same programming from starting as remote function.
How much power are you getting there? Full battery voltage?
If so, and the ground is good, try with another remote(any vehicle, just needs to be 315MHz) to see if you then get a signal on the other wire, this will tell you if the receiver is good/failed(I've only ever had to replace 1 of these)
If you're getting a signal with another remote, then your remotes are bad, likely a bad solder joint inside the housing, which has been covered on here with how to fix.
How much power are you getting there? Full battery voltage?
If so, and the ground is good, try with another remote(any vehicle, just needs to be 315MHz) to see if you then get a signal on the other wire, this will tell you if the receiver is good/failed(I've only ever had to replace 1 of these)
If you're getting a signal with another remote, then your remotes are bad, likely a bad solder joint inside the housing, which has been covered on here with how to fix.
Good to know regarding the reprogramming. All start functions work perfectly with both remotes.
I will have to take apart the headliner and test the outgoing line on the receiver and also confirm I am getting the full ~12v going into the unit. I assume test with truck off like it would be if I hit the remote lock/unlock button as I would be leaving or coming back to truck?
I have also knocked both remotes in my hand multiple times while hitting the buttons to test internal loose connection and I did not get any results. But still worth tearing apart if nothing else arises.
Last edited by JEbmwRX1; 10-28-2015 at 02:08 PM.
#5
11-13-2015, 03:19 PM
Solution!
An update to my LR3 remote and security issue. I wanted to take a moment and hopefully add a bit of value to the community as I have a solution to the fob issue unlike any other one I have read...
Blinker/Flasher Action: (issues started immediately one day and was consistent for 8 days until I found solution)
> 8-10 repeatedly blinks after unlocking car
> 1 long/constant illumination “flash" after locking
> Lock or Unlock truck rarely would operate correctly, always led to manual operation with key.
Quick overview/observations of work completed to try to resolve key fob issues, all completed but did NOT fix issue:
> I had 2 key fobs and both stopped working regularly, charged both various times to confirm 100% operation/signal.
> Sunroof drains removed/cleaned (no debris)
> Fuses all good.
> Replaced Telephone connectors in the door sill, soldered all of them. Re-connected with heat shrink.
> Removed head liner and tested signal entering remote receiver, had power. and ground bolts were tight.
> Dash lock/unlock button works properly, nothing other than the remote is acting differently. Truck is 100% besides this new issue...
> "hard reset" of truck and let it on the battery tester for 12+ hours. After reconnecting this AM, the key fob worked to unlock once but not lock.
> New battery within last 3 months
> Red security light on dash is flashing normally, periodic timing synced.
> No horn action due to door ajar sensors or hatch. This was a concern that these internal mechanism sensors went bad and causing a 2nd tier lock mode
> By-passed the bonnet latch sensor
After brainstorming with fellow site member "bbyer" (Bruce, I appreciate the help and glad you were there to direct the attack plan!) we narrowed down most every known issue other than eliminating door ajar sensors.
A few daily observations---> problem was very temperamental (never happened on any schedule or particular usage type). Issue seemed to get worse after rains. As known sunroof drain issues, I thought it was rain getting in kick panel but couldn't feel or smell any moisture, applied fan all night and problem seemed to go away. From my electrical background, it seemed like a corrosion or bad ground concern...
CONCLUSION:
I tore apart the entire passenger side paneling/ glove box/ coverings/ door sill/ etc…. I started tracing wires to find a ground issues. I removed the entire passenger dash area assembly. Pulled out all wiring harnesses and disconnected all connectors, cleaned them, reconnected with di-electric greese. After pulling wires out I noticed a loom was up against a sharp metal frame structure. Then I see the 2 wires that were wearing away, bare wire to metal frame!!! (happened to be the same green/white wire anyone with this LR issue is well aware of) THE END.
See pictures of the entire process....
Blinker/Flasher Action: (issues started immediately one day and was consistent for 8 days until I found solution)
> 8-10 repeatedly blinks after unlocking car
> 1 long/constant illumination “flash" after locking
> Lock or Unlock truck rarely would operate correctly, always led to manual operation with key.
Quick overview/observations of work completed to try to resolve key fob issues, all completed but did NOT fix issue:
> I had 2 key fobs and both stopped working regularly, charged both various times to confirm 100% operation/signal.
> Sunroof drains removed/cleaned (no debris)
> Fuses all good.
> Replaced Telephone connectors in the door sill, soldered all of them. Re-connected with heat shrink.
> Removed head liner and tested signal entering remote receiver, had power. and ground bolts were tight.
> Dash lock/unlock button works properly, nothing other than the remote is acting differently. Truck is 100% besides this new issue...
> "hard reset" of truck and let it on the battery tester for 12+ hours. After reconnecting this AM, the key fob worked to unlock once but not lock.
> New battery within last 3 months
> Red security light on dash is flashing normally, periodic timing synced.
> No horn action due to door ajar sensors or hatch. This was a concern that these internal mechanism sensors went bad and causing a 2nd tier lock mode
> By-passed the bonnet latch sensor
After brainstorming with fellow site member "bbyer" (Bruce, I appreciate the help and glad you were there to direct the attack plan!) we narrowed down most every known issue other than eliminating door ajar sensors.
A few daily observations---> problem was very temperamental (never happened on any schedule or particular usage type). Issue seemed to get worse after rains. As known sunroof drain issues, I thought it was rain getting in kick panel but couldn't feel or smell any moisture, applied fan all night and problem seemed to go away. From my electrical background, it seemed like a corrosion or bad ground concern...
CONCLUSION:
I tore apart the entire passenger side paneling/ glove box/ coverings/ door sill/ etc…. I started tracing wires to find a ground issues. I removed the entire passenger dash area assembly. Pulled out all wiring harnesses and disconnected all connectors, cleaned them, reconnected with di-electric greese. After pulling wires out I noticed a loom was up against a sharp metal frame structure. Then I see the 2 wires that were wearing away, bare wire to metal frame!!! (happened to be the same green/white wire anyone with this LR issue is well aware of) THE END.
See pictures of the entire process....
The following users liked this post:
SteveTheRover (12-30-2015)
#7
11-13-2015, 07:57 PM
I hope no one else has to go through what I did and can simply look in the harness area where wires could be rubbing on metal. As I believe in preventative maintaince with these machines, I wrapped all the wiring in that area to safeguard from future issues.
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