Valve block or something else?
My EAS appeared to drop overnight. I checked it out by pulling fuse F26, measuring the vehicle height in the evening and then again the next morning. I did the test twice; once at offroad height and the second time at standard height. My findings were at:
Offroad height: front drops by 10mm on each side, back drops by 3mm on each side
Standard height: front drops by 16mm on each side, back drops by 7mm on each side
So I probably have a leak somewhere.
Can anyone advise on where to begin?
Thanks.
Offroad height: front drops by 10mm on each side, back drops by 3mm on each side
Standard height: front drops by 16mm on each side, back drops by 7mm on each side
So I probably have a leak somewhere.
Can anyone advise on where to begin?
Thanks.
Hi! I experienced something similar in our new to us LR3, but in the opposite order (the rear was dropping more than the front). I think we had a slow leak in the rear valve block. You can try to spray the valve block with soapy water (use some light soap, like kids shampoo). The front one is "relatively" easy accessible behind the passenger wheel arch. Still, if it is a small leak in the valve block, could be hard to find. Ultimately, we got an o-ring kit for the valve blocks (4x4 Air Seals, you can get a kit also from some other sources, I personally didn't trust the ones extremely cheap from amazon) and replaced all the o-rings in the three of them (front, rear and the compressor). That fixed the issue. I found some powder from the desiccant, which means that eventually I will need to replace that also, but right now I'm fighting something else
!
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Standard tolerance is 10mm
Close tolerance for service mode is 5-8mm
Not saying you don't have a leak, but 10mm can be caused by how hard you were braking when you parked or how fast you turned the wheel just before you stopped. The service manual has a procedure to stabilize the suspension before working on it, but I do not recall what or where it is located at this moment but it did involve moving backwards and forward a few meters each direction to settle it down before you work on it.
I would recommend you repeat the test and let it run for 48-72 hours.
I am not sure how often you venture out of standard height, but I would recommend at least once a week park it in access hight or off road height just to keep the valves cleaned out.
I had a left rear wheel dropping using the same test you used. I put new o-rings in the rear valve block but did not solve it. As I needed to keep driving the car until I ordered a strut replacement, I needed to move in and out out of off road height around the homestead here. I noticed that after a few days, the right rear was no longer dropping while parked overnight. I ran the test over the next weekend and there was no drop, so now I have 2 new rear struts warehoused just waiting for a nice summer day.
Jeff
Close tolerance for service mode is 5-8mm
Not saying you don't have a leak, but 10mm can be caused by how hard you were braking when you parked or how fast you turned the wheel just before you stopped. The service manual has a procedure to stabilize the suspension before working on it, but I do not recall what or where it is located at this moment but it did involve moving backwards and forward a few meters each direction to settle it down before you work on it.
I would recommend you repeat the test and let it run for 48-72 hours.
I am not sure how often you venture out of standard height, but I would recommend at least once a week park it in access hight or off road height just to keep the valves cleaned out.
I had a left rear wheel dropping using the same test you used. I put new o-rings in the rear valve block but did not solve it. As I needed to keep driving the car until I ordered a strut replacement, I needed to move in and out out of off road height around the homestead here. I noticed that after a few days, the right rear was no longer dropping while parked overnight. I ran the test over the next weekend and there was no drop, so now I have 2 new rear struts warehoused just waiting for a nice summer day.
Jeff
Thank you lrdb01 and Rufflyer.
By the way, that sounds like really good advice to exercise the suspension by going up/down once a week. I stay in standard height most of the time. Every now and again I lower or raise the vehicle but by no means is it on a regular basis.
I will repeat the test a few more times over the next week. In the meantime let me consider ordering the o-ring kit. Thanks once again.
By the way, that sounds like really good advice to exercise the suspension by going up/down once a week. I stay in standard height most of the time. Every now and again I lower or raise the vehicle but by no means is it on a regular basis.
I will repeat the test a few more times over the next week. In the meantime let me consider ordering the o-ring kit. Thanks once again.
Khan, I would also recommend that you get some silicone grease for the o-rings, if you don't have some. You should apply a very thin coating to the o-rings before installing them. (I used Dow Corning Vacuum grease because is what we use in the lab at work, but there are many alternatives!)
Valve block or a leak on the strut, i recently replaced both struts because when i went to fit a seal kit to the front valve block as soon as i jacked the front up i could hear air escaping from the front left strut.
I started losing a little height at the front and over a few weeks it got to the point that it was on the front bumpstops in the morning.
I started losing a little height at the front and over a few weeks it got to the point that it was on the front bumpstops in the morning.
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Estrelo
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