No I hit a hard dip entering a parking lot

 

Having a similar issue with my 2013 Range Rover Sport HSE LUX. Knocked a good one on the right rear wheel while driving on ice. No visible damage, but Now if it’s in snow mode it’s fine until there’s wheel slippage then it all goes to hell. It loses it’s mind, loses all programs and throws into DSC fault. I saw the question about the curb. Sounds like someone might know this exact issue?? I’d love to know your thoughts.

 

This might be a Hail Mary, but have you checked that your ABS sensor is properly fitted in the rear passenger corner? Maybe hitting that curb jarred it loose.

 

Thank you so much! I will definitely check that out. Honestly this morning I spoke with the gentleman in my local area who is going to take a look at it and he recommended that I just make sure all the tires were aired properly, not just the one that was showing low air. He pointed out that whoever might’ve rotated the tires before I had it didn’t reprogram the computer. So I aired all four tires to the same proper level and now the issue seems to have gone away… for now lol. Still keeping my appointment at the repair shop.

 

Tire rotation requires reprograming?

 

apparently 😂

 

Hi, did you find out what the problem was? I'm having the same issue, everything is fine until a long drive, I get hdc fault, emergency brake fault, the I shut the car down restart and everything is normal... until another 15 miles or so..

thanks

 

HDC was a unique feature at the time - the circuits are tied to the brake lights as when the Hill Decent operates, perhaps unknown to the driver, the brake lights automatically illuminate. If you closely following the brake light wiring diagram, you will eventually find a tie in to the HDC thru the anti-lock brake circuits as well as the transmission computer.

What I am saying is that before I spent too much money chasing some software glitch - that is what I think it is - I would replace the brake light switch.

The link below tells you how to do it - basically a clean hands half hour task that costs you only the price of the switch. I note that some of the files within the link have from three to over seven thousand views - even significant by YouTube standards.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement

Also pay attention to the file within the above link and copied below that says not to fool with the switch as it comes out of the box - just install it and then take apart the one you removed.

This is what the switch looks like when removed from the parts box. Note that the plunger is recessed back into the body and when installing, the process of rotating the switch body 1/4 turn anticlockwise releases the plunger so it pops longer and engages the brake pedal. If you look down on the plunger you can see curved slots where the rotation takes place.

Do not try to rotate the new one - play with the one you remove. Also do not press on the brake pedal when removing or installing as you will damage the plunger - this is one of the reasons the plunger is retracted into the body for installation. It is also for this reason that if you try to confirm the operation of the switch contacts with an ohm meter by pressing the plunger, the switch will appear not to function as one might anticipate. Have faith, the switch will however, once installed and the plunger is in full motion.

 

Mine turned out to be a bent tie rod and dislodged sensors from hitting the curb, had to let the Land Rover repair shop do their work, pricey but it all works perfectly now.

 

Im trowing this on here, cause its sorta related.