Weird suspension noise situation
If a typical shop is doing the work, then yes, it usually makes more sense to replace the whole arm rather than just the bushings themselves. I'd recommend the Meyle heavy duty arms via FCP Euro with oem replacement hardware.
Prices/shipping change all the time, but sometimes it can make sense to order oem ones shipped from vendors in the UK.
If you're going to have the vehicle for awhile, then I'd also suggest telling the shop doing the work that you want your old parts after they replace the arms.
Then you can rebuild them yourself or have them rebuilt with new bushings, if you're into that sort of thing - and install the rebuilt arms the next time the bushings need replacement.
You can also get a new set for free when the bushings wear out again - with FCP's lifetime warranty if you go with their options.
Just don't use poly bushings - they are known to crack control arms because they don't have enough flex. A lot of people like to use the heavy duty 'armored vehicle' bushings - for just the front lower arm rear bushings.
Here's a good discussion on all this:
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...l-arms.222679/
Prices/shipping change all the time, but sometimes it can make sense to order oem ones shipped from vendors in the UK.
If you're going to have the vehicle for awhile, then I'd also suggest telling the shop doing the work that you want your old parts after they replace the arms.
Then you can rebuild them yourself or have them rebuilt with new bushings, if you're into that sort of thing - and install the rebuilt arms the next time the bushings need replacement.
You can also get a new set for free when the bushings wear out again - with FCP's lifetime warranty if you go with their options.
Just don't use poly bushings - they are known to crack control arms because they don't have enough flex. A lot of people like to use the heavy duty 'armored vehicle' bushings - for just the front lower arm rear bushings.
Here's a good discussion on all this:
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...l-arms.222679/
Tks for the advice.
just got a report back from the shop. Evidently the bushings look good. They think the clunks are coming from a loose carrier bearing on the front drive shaft. He said there is play in both the front and rear shafts but nothing that needs replaced asap. I will say that when I tried the brisk breaking test while driving slow the clunk did seem to be coming from the middle of the rig. When normal driving, sometimes the clunking seems to be coming from the front and other times the rear.
thoughts?
just got a report back from the shop. Evidently the bushings look good. They think the clunks are coming from a loose carrier bearing on the front drive shaft. He said there is play in both the front and rear shafts but nothing that needs replaced asap. I will say that when I tried the brisk breaking test while driving slow the clunk did seem to be coming from the middle of the rig. When normal driving, sometimes the clunking seems to be coming from the front and other times the rear.
thoughts?
There is no carrier bearing on the front shaft, get a big screwdriver or tye iron and stick it between the arm and the chassis mount and see how much movement there is.
It should move a little but with some resistance, more often than not its the front rear LCA bush that's worn so test that first.
It should move a little but with some resistance, more often than not its the front rear LCA bush that's worn so test that first.
Easier to replace the whole arm but the bushes are quite cheap if you wanted a budget option, use the OEM Lemforder or Meyle HD bushes.
Well there is a carrier although most call it a differential. Technically the housing is the carrier and the gears inside the differential. So they may have been taking abut the differential input bearing. In which case any play is not ideal at all and can leak to seal leaks. But its not a super common wear item.
As for arms, yeah bushings only can be cheaper but you need a decent press stand and a good mix of metal blocks and such to position stuff and remove the old without damage. I think its just easier to replace the entire arms and my preference is always to go with OEM but I can certainly recommend Mevotech as aftermarket. I have had very bad luck with Meyle. But never, ever go with Dorman....
As for arms, yeah bushings only can be cheaper but you need a decent press stand and a good mix of metal blocks and such to position stuff and remove the old without damage. I think its just easier to replace the entire arms and my preference is always to go with OEM but I can certainly recommend Mevotech as aftermarket. I have had very bad luck with Meyle. But never, ever go with Dorman....
Tks Dakota. The mechanic said that my control arm bushings were good so I’m wondering if they could actually be right about that differential housing. I do recall him indicated that it is leaking slightly. Is this something that should be replaced right away?
Weird thing is that the clunk sounds just like the worn sway bar bushings before I replaced, just not as loud. I would expect it’s easy enough to know if control arms are worn. Perhaps with these rigs, it’s normal to start hearing the clunk before the bushings actually need replaced?
Weird thing is that the clunk sounds just like the worn sway bar bushings before I replaced, just not as loud. I would expect it’s easy enough to know if control arms are worn. Perhaps with these rigs, it’s normal to start hearing the clunk before the bushings actually need replaced?
Front lower bushings last about 75k if OEM. Did you look at sway bar links? Not sure if you mentioned them... but I go through them like candy. I am actually shocked my last set of cheap ($12 each) Delphi's are still going strong. When they go they create the same clunk especially when going through roundabouts and such where the truck may sway form one side to the other.


