Ok so my new to me truck I went into it knowing it had issues but the price was right.

The transmission codes are my biggest concern and something I'm not that great with.






So looking for input from our resident brain trust.

@abran@LR Techniker
I was wanting to send you the screenshots but even I can't send pics in a PM lol

 

If you came to my shop, I would say you need a trans rebuild.

how does it shift?

the only half measure you could try is to rebuild the valve body with a “zip kit” and a new set of solenoids.

or grab the trans out of your other rover, swap over mechatronics unit.

trans swap on these is easier than a D2 in my opinion.

let see what techniker says

 

Tough call with such a wide range of codes. Park Input means the trans and shifter don't match. Could be an issue inside the valvebody (Mechatronics) or it could be an issue in the shifter (its a great collection point for spilled liquids).

Incorrect Gear Ratio could be something as simple as low fluid, or a split Mechatronics seal. If either the pan is leaking or the electrical sleeve is leaking, it very well could be low on fluid. The Mechatronics seal needs to have the valvebody dropped for inspection.

As for the 3-4 shift error, that concerns me. I have seen Mechatronics cause this (either internal worn valve bore or failed solenoid) or it could be an issue with the "E-Clutch" inside the transmisison. The shaft bushing for this clutch wears out and causes pressure loss for that clutch and sometimes the clutch fails since it is the smallest clutch pack inside the transmission.

Probably not the answer you want to hear, but I think Abran is right on the money with rebuild and/or replace. You can start by getting a reman Mechatronics from ZF and I would say you have better than 50/50 chance of fixing, but the last few I quoted, I found that for an additional $1500 more, you can get a reman trans (still from ZF) which comes with the same Mechatronics as you would have bought, but also a completely gone through internal (clutches, seals, bushings, etc...) and also a reman torque converter. I really stopped offering just a Mechatronics because it wasn't a good value compared to a whole unit.

 

I went out and there is signs of a fluid leak. There has definitely been spills on the center console.

Shifts fine as long as you are light on the throttle.

If the trans is dead it's no big deal. Just rather not do a trans swap if I didn't have to. Is that a body off process or can it be done out the bottom?

 

Yeah, if it shifts fine "light on the throttle", then a clutch is slipping under load.

It can be done out of the bottom, but you will need to remove the exhaust and on older LR3, we find the bolts snap at the manifolds.

 

Cool thanks gentlemen

 

@abran what is the zip kit and how much does that run? I have a spare trans to swap in. I was going to do a service on it while it was out. If I can take care of some other fail points I am all for it.

 

Zip Kit, Send your Vin and I can order one for you. Approx cost $175. You should also do the solenoids while there.

You need to be careful because it covers a few models, specifically the small ***** inside. The kit always has an extra one or two and there are places that look they they can accept the extra *****, but they are not supposed to be there.

You either need to disassemble and try to make sure the sandwich plates for the ***** is on top of them so they don't spill out, but if they do... then you need to do forensics and get eyes on the plate to see where the ***** "spin" marks are.

Besides this, its straight forward. I can even send you a second valve body for shipping so you can "practice".

 

Trans comes out the bottom easily.

I soak the exhaust manifold bolts in AeroKroil the night before. I have not had one break since using this stuff. But most the trucks we get are cali vehicles. I did have one from Florida that was rusted to hell and managed to not break the bolts.

 

Zip kit is closer to $100.

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4379-zip-kit