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So yesterday the 07 LR3 had the alternator fail. So it came home on a flat bed.
Picked up an alternator today along with spark plugs. Got the battery checked out and recharged it was good. So popped it back in fired the truck up and pulled it in the garage.
So tonight I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and did all 8 plugs. Seems like they were due.
So a fresh set with a splash of anti-seize in the threads went in.
Tomorrow the truck is going on jack stands and all 4 tires are coming off and I am dropping them off to get new tires mounted.
While that's happening I'll get to work on the rest.
NO ANTI SEIZE!!!
You are NOT to use anti seize of any form on new spark plugs for this car.
You are NOT to use anti seize of any form on new spark plugs for this car.
I did not know that; must be something to do with the aluminum. My independent does the change out so that is my excuse for a lack of knowledge.
I do know that the primary reason I have my plugs regularly changed is the fear of them seizing in the aluminum head. I figure if they are regularly pulled, I will never have to learn about helicoils.
I think I am on my third alternator or more; I tend to change it out much like the plugs - cheaper than getting a ride with the flat bed driver. Why the Denso alternators do not last, I do not know either - they just do not.
My thinking re my 3 is that one pays regardless - either preventative maintenance or forced repairs - not certain if preventative is cheaper, but it is easier on my schedule.
North of me, our nearest LR dealer is in Iceland and he orders his parts from the UK, airfreight.
I did not know that; must be something to do with the aluminum. My independent does the change out so that is my excuse for a lack of knowledge.
I do know that the primary reason I have my plugs regularly changed is the fear of them seizing in the aluminum head. I figure if they are regularly pulled, I will never have to learn about helicoils.
I think I am on my third alternator or more; I tend to change it out much like the plugs - cheaper than getting a ride with the flat bed driver. Why the Denso alternators do not last, I do not know either - they just do not.
My thinking re my 3 is that one pays regardless - either preventative maintenance or forced repairs - not certain if preventative is cheaper, but it is easier on my schedule.
North of me, our nearest LR dealer is in Iceland and he orders his parts from the UK, airfreight.
It isn't really self explanatory but NGK released a bulletin on the subject. It's because of the coating that they use on the threads. If you were to remove the plugs and reinstall the same (IE checking a cylinder or plug etc), you could then use anti seize on reinstall since the coating has been "used". Makes good sense to me given how bad it would be to have a plug snap or strip a thread! Lets say someone like yourself with a long time of experience on the car, you might use antiseize and be very careful on the torque of each plug, but it could easily be overtightened by someone with a new plug AND antiseize.
It isn't really self explanatory but NGK released a bulletin on the subject. It's because of the coating that they use on the threads. If you were to remove the plugs and reinstall the same (IE checking a cylinder or plug etc), you could then use anti seize on reinstall since the coating has been "used". Makes good sense to me given how bad it would be to have a plug snap or strip a thread! Lets say someone like yourself with a long time of experience on the car, you might use antiseize and be very careful on the torque of each plug, but it could easily be overtightened by someone with a new plug AND antiseize.
I much appreciated the link to the NGK antiseize pdf. I guess the good plugs already have an anti-seize coating applied so doubling up, the threads get too slippery and the plugs can be easily over tightened. Your wallet then suffers and you learn even more about about how sophisticated our engines are.
338,000 km / 210,000 miles on the clock now. It is a daily driver. I bought it to stay on the road; worked so far; you have to pay me to drive off road.
First replacement alternator was at 147,000 km / 91,000 miles
Second was a couple of weeks later as first was defective - I suppose that does not count?
Third replacement alternator was at 274,000 km / 170,000 miles.
That suggests after 130,000 km / 80,000 miles on an alternator, one should be looking at it very much a bit sideways.
You are good so to speak; due at about 230,000 km I would guess, or 200,000 km if you figure you will have it for a another few years.
For me, I guess at 400,000 km / 250,000 miles, I will need another - two years or so perhaps - time flys.
To late did a second set with anti-seize last night.
So today I figured out where my coolant leak is coming from on the 06 so I will be ordering all new hoses for it. No water pump this time. No it doesn't need all the hoses but I figure one and done is better. Since my truck see's a bit more severe duty.
Then I went after the chirping pulley. Found the secondary tensioner was a bit knackered.
If you look closely you can see what looks to be grease streaks coming from the bearing.
More investigation found the primary belt idler was bad as well I could hear the bearing as I spun it on my finger.
Got it all buttoned up.
Replaced a o-ring on the pcv valve, air filter and cleaned the throttle body. Tomorrow a oil change.
...like opposite. I use mine almost exclusively for off-road except driving to the action and the "maintenance drive" every ten days or so that consists of a 6 Mile drive to work (each way) with some highway speeds to ensure fluids and electrons get spun up.
Yeah your 2nd alternator is a mulligan. The rest of your accounting pencils out just fine.
To late did a second set with anti-seize last night.
So today I figured out where my coolant leak is coming from on the 06 so I will be ordering all new hoses for it. No water pump this time. No it doesn't need all the hoses but I figure one and done is better. Since my truck see's a bit more severe duty.
Then I went after the chirping pulley. Found the secondary tensioner was a bit knackered.
If you look closely you can see what looks to be grease streaks coming from the bearing.
More investigation found the primary belt idler was bad as well I could hear the bearing as I spun it on my finger.
Got it all buttoned up.
Replaced a o-ring on the pcv valve, air filter and cleaned the throttle body. Tomorrow a oil change.
While you are playing with the cooling system, you might consider replacing what I call the Bleeder Tee, p/n LR027661. It hides under the plastic cover and connects a couple of those small hoses together. You will only notice it when water/steam starts coming out from under the cover.
It can however be a showstopper - best you stop while the engine is still rotating as it can be a back on the flat bed kind of event.
The Tee might cost ten dollars and changing it is a standing up kind of job so not that difficult - easier than plugs or idlers, that is for certain.
The only hard part is then bleeding air out of the system - that is what the tee is for but nothing except patience seems to work well when it comes to bleeding air pockets.
01-18-2019, 02:53 PM
