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No, the Front Lower Control Arms that I installed on 12.7.17, almost 30,000 miles ago, were not OEM. They were Dorman brand - Part numbers 521553 (Driver side) and 521554 (Passenger) and I was able to pick them up for from Amazon Warehouse for only $115 (this was for both Driver and Passenger Arms, and all Hardware (Nuts, Bolts, Washers). It is always a risk when not using OEM for these types of components, but for $115 I was willing to take a chance. I intentionally stayed away from any of the generic / non-brand units - Figured I would be somewhat safe with Dorman. At some point I will probably purchase some high quality Bushings and Ball Joints, and press them in to the Arms I removed, so that I have a spare 'new' set - I have a 13 ton Shop Press, and the various press accessories, so if I am careful enough not to damage the actual arms when pressing out/in, it should be ok.
Starter Motor - I like the idea of having a spare, one that I have taken apart and rebuilt myself, however I am clueless in this area. The one I put on the other day was from Rockauto, ACDelco brand, part # 3362067, cost was $130, and I sent the old 'core' back, and will be getting about $50 back.
Parking Brake - Yeah, very high on my priority list to fix !! Have studied many of the Forum discussions (horror stories) on the topic. Intentionally have not used the Parking Brake after the first time it screeched at me (accidentally activated it one more time however, and immediately de-activated it). I think (hope) there may just be some mud/dirt in the Parking Brake assembly somewhere - I recall the issue starting the first time I activated the Parking Brake after a muddy Summer Off-Road trip. I have not 'needed' to take the back Wheel/Brake/Suspension area apart since then, but clearly I need to spend some time back there. I suppose I should also take apart the Actuator and clean it up / rebuild it, while I'm back there - I have not started to study this in detail yet - Is there a 'Rebuild Kit' for these units? Anything I should grease or lubricate? Maybe I'll start to tackle it this weekend.
I have had horrible experiences with Dorman even though I have used very few of their parts. I needed some control arms for my BMW and Dorman was all I could source at the time. They did not even fit, off by inches. And the two that did make it on failed quickly. Dorman, from what I have read, is not the company it used to be. Mainly because they are diverging out past their roots and often out-sourcing crap then repackaging. Sad really. But as you know, we can get OEM lower arms for less than even $115 if you look around - just takes a week on shipping...
I think I paid about the same from CardID for my starter. They are really simple to work on. What usually fails is the solenoid portion unless they have been sitting in water a while, then the motor portion can indeed get water looked and rust up bad. Thats why I installed some breather tubes on mine.
The actuator assembly is no fun to get at. It may be fine, probably no need to touch it. If you need help on the parking brakes, let me know. I actually have another set of shoes to install. I put new ones on but they did not fit well. I suggest you get a good brand! I think the set I have waiting to go on are API which is re-packaged Raybestos or such. The issue is the cable retainer. OEM and good ones are cast but the cheap ones just bend this little piece of metal back. If done wrong the cable will not feed through right. Can add a lot of time to install putzing with it.
Removed my rack and awning to remove my short rails ready to swap over to long rails, that extra foot will help secure my 16ft canoe.
Car looks naked now.
Just purchased a 2006 LR 3 with infamous 4.0 V6 at 170k mi, and when straight for service, got an oil change, spark plug changed, air filter changed, replaced drive belt, front/rear diff and transfer case fluid changed, at this point im playing catch up on all services that were overdue! However Im running into some slight rough idle issue, trying to get that sorted out!
Some reason STP replacement filter is overly sized but the seal diameter is identical, so far its not leaking!!
Oh do i hate side mounted spark plugs, its a total knuckle buster doing this job, at least it's every 75k miles.
Well this isn't suppose to happen, core severed off its ceramic housing, there was an issue with the plug wire arcing.
Removed my rack and awning to remove my short rails ready to swap over to long rails, that extra foot will help secure my 16ft canoe.
Car looks naked now.
Works just like it did before, no issues with 4x4 info. Radio stations even show ID or what is playing in the buttons. Have to browse that station first. But its a nice touch. Surprised to see this message, 100% unexpected. And it was correct, my fuel was low! Can dial right from the screen! But I need to install the new bluetooth phone module for the phonebook to load, even then the phonebook function may not work. Not sure yet.
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One issue I have is for some reason when I select AUX input for an audio source on the display it will switch then get stuck there. Trying to switch back to radio from the screen does not work. I can switch manually and it will do so, but the screen stays stuck until the truck it power cycled. Also the CD changer does not show as an option even though it shows in vehicle configuration, this can probably not be resolved but I dont use CDs. I am however working on another aspect that folks may like involving bluetooth streaming right to this screen. Another problem is backlight illumination, its stuck at full brightness. I tried a cheap voltage to PWM module but it did not help. I am pretty sure there is an internal modification needed to make it work correctly, at least that is the case with the native LR3 display when configured as a Ranger Rover.
Last edited by DakotaTravler; 01-14-2020 at 07:16 PM.
Um... a how to? Kidding, of course. I took lots of pics and will have something written up soon enough. I will add that soon I may be doing this again but with an LR3 that had no nav display at all but does have the required MOST network. This display has navigation built in so for LR3 folks wanting a display using an LR4 display may be A LOT more practical, just need three wires after all (batter, ground, standby-on) and a cable for a GPS antenna. So you dont even have to get a harness, etc.
What you did looks very modern.
My 2005 LR3 HSE has the factory Nav and 6CD-465 Radio head with the under seat CD unit. All works well right now but display look is outdated.
Originally the Bluetooth was the dealer installed 0000 analogue unit but I was able to modify it to use the 1234 2010 D4 Optical BlueTooth and have about a 2012 map CD so the display is not exactly 2005 any longer.
I assume the display is new as I do not see those two buttons at the bottom but there must be a lot more to the upgrade than first meets the eye.
Its just a display swap for the most part. My radio head unit and nav CD unit are still there. The nav CD is actually called the MMM (module-multi-media) and might do a few things beyond navigation. I should see how things respond if I disconnect it, I dont think it has the MOST network connected to it. There is some extra work involved which I will detail. For one you have to get a farka extension cable for the GPS antenna, you disconnect the antenna from the MMM and extend it right into the display. You also have to run a wire from the MMM for vehicle speed signal. Otherwise you just take three wires from the existing display harness and run them to the new one. Only three wires, the vehicle speed and a GPS extension cable are needed from the LR3 for the LR4 display to work. Also the maps are more up to date. You can only use a display from 2010-11 though for this as 2012 they went back to an external device for map storage.
01-03-2020, 12:17 PM
