thanks i did change the fluid and put the metal pan for the oil too

 

I got some 22inch rims on offeup for $80 dollars all 4 with tires 1 of them got 2 small cracks i got it fixed now i took them to a place in nj Peerless Coating Services 220 Goffle Rd, Hawthorne, NJ 07506 they Charging me $75 per rim for a black super gloss pouder coating sandblasting best price now waiting for them to put it on my LR3

 

I don't know if the oem Wheel Lug Nuts Bolts Fit tje aftermarket rims yet but will appreciate if anyone have more knowledge on thiss thanks

 

Those wheels may need a different shape (ball vs cone), but this is what I used on my BMW wheels:
The flat LR lug nuts are unlikely to work.

 

for my rear locker died mid-trip, so I zip-tied in a generic $30 tire inflator compressor on the trail and spliced it in.
HONESTLY Worked better than the ARB compressor. Might cleanup the connections and make it permanent.

 

New front end on my 2006 D3. A project LONG past due. My lower rear bushings where shot, as usual. Replaced once before at the dealer. But I also did the uppers, they were tired. I only had issues with the lower rearward bolts, all the rest came out really easily. When I did the other side I picked up a MUCH better sawsall blade, a Diablo carbide metal. Took 30 seconds to cut one side of the bolt and a couple minutes for the other side since I had to cut through the bushing first.

Upper arms are Lemforder, the bushings had the LR logo scratched off.
Lower arms are Mevotech, thought I would give em a try since Rock Auto was cleaning them out for $50. But one came with a slight cut in a ball joint boot so I tossed two new Lemforder lower ball joints into the arms first. The bushings they came with were Lemforder. So really its just as good as OEM now.
Sway bar link is Delphi, they are very inexpensive but I have had really good luck with them lasting a long time. Even the ones I removed I will save as spares for the trail.
All bolts, nuts and washers are new. Some OEM, most are Britpart. I could have saved a lot of money by reusing hardware since it all came out easily, but I wanted to have it all on hand incase I ran into issues. Bolts were lightly coated with marine anti-seize to assist in future removal. But my plan going forward is to remove the lower control arm bolts every couple years to make sure they stay serviceable.

Up next is the rear end. I have 100% brand new rear knuckles with bearings to put in, so it should go easily.

 

DT your flares could do with some luvin.

 

 

Replaced all the brakes, as a start, after suspecting that the rear wheel bearing were shot. Bearings are fine, the old pads from before my time were a cheap set causing the SCREECHING sound while driving slowly (20 - 40 mph). Next will be the rotors, but later.
Had the steel tranny conversion kit gasket replaced (leaking) from a previous service. New transmission fluid Toptech 1800 added at that service. Not sure on that stuff (any thoughts anyone?) Installed new front acrylic head lamp guards.

 

I did something very stupid.... A couple weeks ago I was helping someone with a complete rear end overhaul while also servicing another LR3. I was jumping around so much I somehow installed the brake shield on the wrong rear knuckles when I was building them up! Oops! Made it a bit hard to install the brakes... No matter, I just trimmed the shield. Means I have a larger area beyond the caliper that is not shielded but that does not concern me, some people drive with these things removed (or rusted away). But at least I got one side done on MY truck today. Will trim the other shield tomorrow and get the other side overhauled. I tell ya though, totally worth buying two new knuckles and building them up, I just removed one entire side as a unit - the upper arm, lower arm and knuckle. Less bolts to deal with and cut, etc.