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Noting else to do: may as well change the radiator
We decided that since everything was covered in snow, and there was a big hole in the top of of the radiator where the return nipple used to be...... maybe we would just replace the darn thing. Only problem, aside from my orthopedic limitations was that I forgot that you need to push the drivers side to the rear so it can clear the wire bundle and struggled more than I should have.
Having some suspension issues so doing some trouble shooting, i had the "suspension raising slowly " message so swapped in my spare compressor with no change, then started getting C1130-66 on the gap tool so got a known good front valve block to rule that out which also didnt fix it.
Rebuilt my front and center valve blocks since i had the seal kit already and it was good for about 2 days then same issues , I opened up my original compressor that i rebuilt 5 years and it was full of black sooty debris in the crankcase.
Piston was sloppy in the cylinder so it needs a rebuild again , removed the spare compressor and opened that up and the insides were good so put all the best parts together and refitted.
Gallery gets up to 225 psi then compressor shuts off and when car is off it vents back to around 15 psi when to me seems normal operation but still drops in the front slightly , cant find any leaks in valve blocks or struts even at offroad height + 50mm with my Llams controller.
Starting to look at the warn winch auxiliary lighting circuits, controllable from the remote. This winch handles everything remotely (for better or for worse) meaning you don't even have a physical clutch position selector for forward/freespool/reverse. I am not sure the best things to set up here as dedicated lighting switches, but figure that I had might as well try to take advantage of the unique feature, try to get used to it. What would you use it for?
Back when I first started rehabbing the $500 LR3, I replaced the front and center valve blocks with Amazon Chitanium parts. It was all "ticky-boo" until it got cold and then I kept getting suspension faults and the Gap told me the pressure was rising too fast, usally a sign of a bad center valve. Cleaned up the old one, a genuine LR part, and today it finally got warm enough to swap it back in again. Just like that it's not whining and lighting up that yellow symbol.
We are dealing with one helluva blizzard, like 3-4 feet depending where you were and how the wind was blowing. After digging ourselves out we went to go help some of our friends and jump started tthe wife's sons van, the whole time using fronnt and rear heated screens, seat warmers, headlights and fog lights, Ginsu decided to go into restricted performance mode for no apparent reason. Had to drive home at low speed because the handy Gap is at home. Found a P0606-45, powerteain control module failure and P2105 throttle acuator -system shutdown. Cleared the DTC's and everything was norma-ish except driving across the snowy roads generates a lot of bumps and the LR3 cut out over the larger ones. Upon checking the battery terminals I found the negative clamp pretty much making gravity contact with teh terminal. I was thinking it may have dislodged while jump starting the van.
I did find in this case that the 2105 limits engine RPM to 1500. In auto mode that worked out to 10-15 MPH, but as experiment I tried command shift and found I could manually shift through the gears and by doing so maintain a semi reasonable road speed. I'm still wondering if the clamp was loose, and if I did it while jump strting or if that was a coincidence. I've got the beast on charger therapy as it might not have been charging properly.
Quick question-Ginso wasn't equipped with the trailer wiring so I have made do with a powered tail light converter. Since the properly equipped LR3 will detect the presence of a trailer by hooking up the wiring to the trailer, is there a place in the wiring where a person could jumper with a 2-4 resistor to spoof the trailer lights, something that a person could switch, kind of like the tow/haul mode my old Suburban had?
Well at least the issue was power and not the module itself. Brownouts, like when an alt starts to fail, can cause all sorts of odd things. Been there with the Mercedes and Rovers. And this snow is crazy. Green Bay got over 24 inches but there was a pretty big spread between the southern edge and northern edge which I know had much more. I have been plowing for four days now and this is horrible hard stuff to move.... no fun....
Noting else to do: may as well change the radiator
, I opened up my original compressor that i rebuilt 5 years and it was full of black sooty debris in the crankcase.
