When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought this used with a lot of miles (200k+), and as it turned out a compressor that had a busted bracket and wasn't working right.
Replaced the compressor with a Rock Auto one.
Replaced the front valve block (front end would drop overnight) with an OEM one from a local LR guy.
'kinda'' slowed the sinking.
driving was fine, occasional ding and orange suspension light, right around the 3 miles point, but it didn't seem to affect the driving.
about 60-80 miles into this one day it just blew on me(about 12 miles in)
red suspension light, back end sunk right down to the bump stops. had to get recovered.
Following codes:
U0132-87 (2B) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
C1130-7 A (AF) Air spring air supply - Mechanical failure - fluid leak or seal failure
C1130-66 (AF) Air spring air supply - Algorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events
plus the attached photo on my display
fired it up that night and it wouldn't raise, but neither did it flash a light/ code
hit the off road height in the gap tool and it raised up.
hit normal, went back to normal.
didn't trust it to drive though so I left it a couple of days (its a secondary vehicle)
fired it up. nothing. no compressor noise, no raising.
this was before Christmas, life got in the way. but now I really am gonna need it in a month or so so I figured id better get on it.
ran codes today
pulled the various fuses and relay to see if anything helped. nothing. sat lower than a snake in a wagon rut. no compressor noise. Gallery pressure sat at 572kpa and not flickering
C1131-92 (AF) Air Supply- Component failure- Performance or incorrect operation
C1A20-64(2E) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir- algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
Any thoughts before I blow a bunch of money buying all new components and still not having it work!!
I really don't want to switch to coils, I like the air system when it works....
To really see where it may be leaking from, you have to pull power first, measure each corner, and then let it sit overnight. Of course measure again in the morning and see where it dropped.
…beyond that, I’d always start with a fresh calibration. Does it have Johnson Rods (or equivalent) installed?
It won’t put any air in anywhere lol, the compressor doesn’t even kick in and try.
Originally Posted by houm_wa
To really see where it may be leaking from, you have to pull power first, measure each corner, and then let it sit overnight. Of course measure again in the morning and see where it dropped.
…beyond that, I’d always start with a fresh calibration. Does it have Johnson Rods (or equivalent) installed?
Right…so do you have modified lift rods installed? If so, your EAS could be out of range. You will need to jack up either end and engage the compressor with the switch once it’s reasonably within range.
Right…so do you have modified lift rods installed? If so, your EAS could be out of range. You will need to jack up either end and engage the compressor with the switch once it’s reasonably within range.
no on the rods, standard.
tried jacking up the rear. Still nothing
If you have a Gap, try going to valve testing mode, when you raise the front or rear it should manually turn on the compressor and raise the vehicle if it able to do so.Be cautioned that if your compressor is really dead or not able to supply pressure to the front or rear trying this will let the remaining pressure out of the air springs and leave it worse off than before.
IIRC it's service test/suspension/test valves. I also used this to manually raise my LR3 with a shop compressor feeding the line from the compressor to the middle valve block while waiting for a new compressor.
Yet another Suspension fault
A few things…
