2010 Range Rover Sport, Door Lock Actuator, Brake Vacuum Pump Gasket
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07-21-2021 | 02:41 PM
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From: La Jolla, California
2010 Range Rover Sport, Door Lock Actuator, Brake Vacuum Pump Gasket
Sorting a few things on the new 2010 Range Rover Sport.
Brake Vacuum Pump
The massive oil mess on the right side of the engine seems to have been caused by a leaking brake vacuum pump seal. The Brake Vacuum Pump mounts to the front of the engine, just below the alternator. There was oil from the bottom of the engine to the Oil Filter housing, thick black oil. The skid plate was caked in oil. Simple green, rags and a tooth brush and the engine looks like new. The screws on the Brake Vacuum Pump were all a bit loose. I snugged them up and it seems to mostly have resolved that leak. It is still seeping a bit but not really dripping. Is there anything special about changing out the seal? Is it just unbolt and rebolt? There appears to be a seal between the Pump and the engine block and maybe another seal under the pump "cover." Are both serviceable?
Driver's Door Lock Actuator
Seems like I might have a driver's door lock actuator issue. The door lock lever doesn't seem to move much and the door will not lock with the remote. Alarm will set and will go off when the door is opened, but it won't lock. I found a youtube video from a guy in Britain, dude has a great accent, Scottish maybe. He essentially disassembled the door to remove the door lock actuator and door handle. He then took off the actuator cover and changed out one of the motors. He sells the replacement motor on ebay in the UK but they don't ship to the USA. Does anyone know of a source for the actuator motor here in the USA? The truck is not throwing a code related to the door lock actuator.
Lower Control Arm Rear Bushing Leak?
I need to dig a bit deeper, but it looks like the right-side lower control arm, rear seal is leaking. As I recall, they are fluid filled. Rovers, the gift that keeps on taking........
Coolant Tank Fluid Level Sensor
My replacement Coolant Tank Fluid Sensor arrived in the mail yesterday. Now to try to replace it without loosing too much fluid and having to fill the system again. Hopefully some locking pliers will clamp the two hoses sufficiently to do the job. Seems like a fairly straight forward job. Remove the two hoses, unplug the electrical connection, remove the sensor, replace and reconnect electrical plug and the two coolant hoses.
Driver's Side Headlight
I am having a hard time finding a driver's side headlight for less than $800. Dealer wants $2100. The one that I have works, but the case and lens are cracked and broken. The headlights are AFS/Adaptive, but don't seem to do the dance on startup. Aparently, the headlights were made for 2010 and 2011 and then there were some changes made. Not too many 2010 and 2011 driver's side afs/adaptive headlight to be had.
Front Bumper Camera
One of the front bumper cameras is dead. The lens popped out. Dealer wants $550, car-parts.com has offerings for as low as $150. I rarely use the cameras on our other RRS, but it would be nice to a the truck fully functional.
It is almost ready to drop at the body shop for repair of the fender and hood and then paint. It drives really well. Probably as well as our other 2010 RRS even though it has 40k more miles. I need to take a look at the front and rear cross-over pipes and see if they have been changed out.
It has the upgraded interior with heated steering wheel, seats and is set up for heated windshield, but looks like somebody replaced the windshield with standard glass. It even has power seat side bolsters! It is fitted with black wheels, not my favorite, but it looks nice. Apparently the last owner struggled with parallel parking.....wheels are a little scratched. Tires are decent, about half life left.
Somebody had used a strong scent or too much axe body spray. Interior needed a deep shampoo. Scent still lingered. I tried a detailer's trick, glass half full of water with some bits of a clorine pool, about 1/4 of a tablet. Let it sit overnight. In the morning it has a strong chlorine smell, but it quickly goes away. It does a great job on eliminating odors and scents.
Phil
2010 Range Rover Sport Santorini Black, Tan interior, 90k miles
2010 Range Rover Sport Stornoway Grey, Black interior, 130k miles
Brake Vacuum Pump
The massive oil mess on the right side of the engine seems to have been caused by a leaking brake vacuum pump seal. The Brake Vacuum Pump mounts to the front of the engine, just below the alternator. There was oil from the bottom of the engine to the Oil Filter housing, thick black oil. The skid plate was caked in oil. Simple green, rags and a tooth brush and the engine looks like new. The screws on the Brake Vacuum Pump were all a bit loose. I snugged them up and it seems to mostly have resolved that leak. It is still seeping a bit but not really dripping. Is there anything special about changing out the seal? Is it just unbolt and rebolt? There appears to be a seal between the Pump and the engine block and maybe another seal under the pump "cover." Are both serviceable?
Driver's Door Lock Actuator
Seems like I might have a driver's door lock actuator issue. The door lock lever doesn't seem to move much and the door will not lock with the remote. Alarm will set and will go off when the door is opened, but it won't lock. I found a youtube video from a guy in Britain, dude has a great accent, Scottish maybe. He essentially disassembled the door to remove the door lock actuator and door handle. He then took off the actuator cover and changed out one of the motors. He sells the replacement motor on ebay in the UK but they don't ship to the USA. Does anyone know of a source for the actuator motor here in the USA? The truck is not throwing a code related to the door lock actuator.
Lower Control Arm Rear Bushing Leak?
I need to dig a bit deeper, but it looks like the right-side lower control arm, rear seal is leaking. As I recall, they are fluid filled. Rovers, the gift that keeps on taking........
Coolant Tank Fluid Level Sensor
My replacement Coolant Tank Fluid Sensor arrived in the mail yesterday. Now to try to replace it without loosing too much fluid and having to fill the system again. Hopefully some locking pliers will clamp the two hoses sufficiently to do the job. Seems like a fairly straight forward job. Remove the two hoses, unplug the electrical connection, remove the sensor, replace and reconnect electrical plug and the two coolant hoses.
Driver's Side Headlight
I am having a hard time finding a driver's side headlight for less than $800. Dealer wants $2100. The one that I have works, but the case and lens are cracked and broken. The headlights are AFS/Adaptive, but don't seem to do the dance on startup. Aparently, the headlights were made for 2010 and 2011 and then there were some changes made. Not too many 2010 and 2011 driver's side afs/adaptive headlight to be had.
Front Bumper Camera
One of the front bumper cameras is dead. The lens popped out. Dealer wants $550, car-parts.com has offerings for as low as $150. I rarely use the cameras on our other RRS, but it would be nice to a the truck fully functional.
It is almost ready to drop at the body shop for repair of the fender and hood and then paint. It drives really well. Probably as well as our other 2010 RRS even though it has 40k more miles. I need to take a look at the front and rear cross-over pipes and see if they have been changed out.
It has the upgraded interior with heated steering wheel, seats and is set up for heated windshield, but looks like somebody replaced the windshield with standard glass. It even has power seat side bolsters! It is fitted with black wheels, not my favorite, but it looks nice. Apparently the last owner struggled with parallel parking.....wheels are a little scratched. Tires are decent, about half life left.
Somebody had used a strong scent or too much axe body spray. Interior needed a deep shampoo. Scent still lingered. I tried a detailer's trick, glass half full of water with some bits of a clorine pool, about 1/4 of a tablet. Let it sit overnight. In the morning it has a strong chlorine smell, but it quickly goes away. It does a great job on eliminating odors and scents.
Phil
2010 Range Rover Sport Santorini Black, Tan interior, 90k miles
2010 Range Rover Sport Stornoway Grey, Black interior, 130k miles
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