Hello,

The shifter kicking into neutral could have caused the engine to rev higher than normal and possibly forced the "seep" to a leak, but in principal going from drive to neutral should not effect a normal working cooling system.

I run an independent shop and can say that I believe the dealer is the worst place to take a vehicle that is out of warranty.

The service writer makes a commission on the service that goes through him(cue extra repairs that are not needed) and the mechanics get paid by job time. Meaning that if a job bills at 5 hours and the tech can get it done in 3, he just made an extra 2 hours and normally this shows in the quality of the work, I.e. missing bolts, clips, etc.

As an independent, our business model is similar, yes the more work we do the more money we make and yes the faster I get the repair done the more money we make but Im the one that has to look you in the face and say that I did a good job and guarantee that work. In addition if a job bills at 8 hours and I know it takes me 6, I charge 6 hours.

So, after Land Rover sends you an estimate I think you should do some research and try to find an independent Land Rover specialist mechanic that you trust. If you cannot find one in a timely manner have the repair carried out by Land Rover dealer, but take this as a wake up call to find a good independent mechanic.

Owning a Land Rover will get ridiculous expensive if you take it to the dealer exclusively.

 

Thank you ! So it turned out to be the front coolant manifold and rear crossover. Which I was told are both very common tubes that tend to leak over time? My extended warranty covers this. But now my check engine light is coming on and also an error saying throttle accelerator sensor is off.....

what could that mean ?

thank you,

 

Hello Abran,
Was an interesting read finding this forum. My 2010 LR4 Lux with 150K clicks on it did exactly what a lot of people on here are saying...I was off the road inside 30 seconds of the dummy lights flashing - too late. Motor blown. It is currently sitting in CO on my sons property - this all happened in early July this year. I'm not sure what to do with it! It is in immaculate condition for a 10 year old rig... I worry about putting another 100K mile motor in it only to have the tranny go! Any suggestions?
thanks!

 

Hello, I bought a used 2016 LR4 and have had it for about two years, and I was planning on driving it well into the future. The engine has had a catastrophic failure, and I am just wanting to get advice on whether or not I should consider replacing it with a used engine, new, or try to sell as is. I was told by my mechanic that a used engine would be approximately around 15K, and a new engine around 20k. Still owe approximately 25k on car. Please help me with best advice on what to do?? Thank you!

 

Hey guys just a vent with some questions.
My wife was driving her 2011 lr4 when she heard a small noise Taking my son to school. Car kept driving for another mile before it shut it self down. I drove down to help. Called a tow truck popped the hood and of course no water. I assumed s blown hose or water pump. After it has sat for about and hour it drove up in the flat bed with no issues. Towed it home drove it in driveway. Ordered new water pump kit, front. Cross Over tube because I heard those can fail as well. Long story and 8 weeks later after accidentally slipping with a mallet breaking the radiator, replaced that as well. Any way out in the water pump still leaking, I then finally decided to pull the intake off and check the tube. Sure enough it was leaking bad. Basically disintegrated. So i replaced that poured water in to see if it held and all good. I put it all back together changed the thermostat as well. Filled water followed bleeding procedure all seemed good was running in driveway for about 45 minutes not overheating no loss of water all sounded good. Was excited took her for a test drive. Then started to hear a rattle that sounded like something rolling around in the wheel well. I did drop a socket in there so assumed that’s all was. Well I went down the hill about a mile. Pulled over popped the hood and it smelled hot like oil but not smoking or anything temp was still at midway. I assumed just left over residue from me re assembling. Started back up the hill to head home made it about 1/2 mile started making loud rattling noise I then knew not the socket pulled over and it just died. Popped hood oils smoking pretty heavy in passenger side. Just left hood open let her cool for about 30 minutes while Poking around looking for loose vacuum or valve cover hose. Nope all good. Tried to start. Only turns over but will not start. Super disappointed at this point. Towed home again. Crawled under took skid plate off and could see oil was all over exhaust on passenger side. Couldn’t really see where it coming from but it looks like maybe the head gasket or block itself. Any way long story short everything’s else is great on the car i hate to scrap it. But dang never seen rebuilt engines for 10 plus k before that almost what the car is worth. I also don’t want to pull the body off to swap a motor out. Does anyone have any suggestions? It could just be the gasket but I heard those a bear to replace and it could end up being warped heads, warped block or both. And I really don’t know to check all that without ripping her apart and spending another month away from my kids on the weekends. Does anyone have any info or videos on how to do a head job? I also heard that you might as well do the timing chains and tensioners while your in their. Just seem way to much for backyard mechanic as my self? So frustrating that a simple plastic part can fail and destroy a luxury suv.

I may try and tear into it but I heard the special tools needed are expensive as well and I really don’t have 5k just laying around.

Any suggestions would be fantastic.

she still looks good but worthless sitting in my driveway taking up space. Not to mention it was our second car and much needed with 3 boys in sports and different schools.

personally the engineers who designed such a stupid cheap part should be freaking slapped around a bit.

 

Really sorry to hear your bad luck. I think you should confirm it’s a compression issue first - compression test and/or leak down test. You can do the tests at home - get free tool rental at autoparts store, or spend a little to have it done at a garage. You can also check your oil for coolant (chocolate color) and test the coolant for exhaust gasses. If it turns out to be a head gasket, I’d say chances are very good that it overheated and warped the head since it ran dry of coolant. So, at that point, you’ll have more info to be able to assess what you’re really facing and what your options are.

 

How can a car need a new engine with only 7000 miles on it. The dealership wants 31,168 dollars to replace it and give me a 1 year guarantee. I have never replaced an engine on any car that I have owned and one with 7k miles seems wrong. I have owned the car since 2016. ​​​​​​ it seems this is totally wrong. Anyone with thought would help.

thanks

 

What is the going rate for hours on an engine swap like this in your shop?
and how much does that engine sell for?
You can text me at 602-377-2413

 

so what did you end up doing about the balance owed on the suv ?

 

Abran, if my 3.0L scv6 craps out I'll be replacing it with a 12v Cummins. Research this and let me know what you find, if transmission needs to go too so be it. I look forward to your response since you seem so knowledgeable with these jag/rovers. And don't say it can't be done, the LR4 doesn't need all the computer crap anyway, it was just engineered to want it.
Edit: and I'm completely serious, I will gut the center console for the floor shifter if needed, these LR3/LR4 are the last real big 7 seater off roaders ever made and shouldn't be trashed because of jaguar's **** engines. I have 3 or 4 Cummins donors it would be no problem welding up the engine bay for it.