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Hey Thanks. This is a big job and this short video series shows all the parts that need to come off and in what order and we will also show the return trip.
This video includes the DI fuel injector service I think we left out of the last video..
This is an amazing video series! I cant believe I just found this. I'm researching this job for my 2016 LR4. Im 90% certain it's my valve covers leaking but I cant 100% see the leak. I wanted to get some certainty before tearing everything apart.
- On the passenger side I can see residual oil on the underside of the exhaust manifold. I dont know how it would get to the underside of the manifold heat shield? I'm assuming it drips from the valve cover above on top of the heat shield and then wraps around under it???
- On the driver side I see it on top of the motor mount and diff, then drips down the diff.
This was a fantastic series. I used this over the weekend to start on this project. The disassembly was easier than I thought and no major issues. I broke a clip on one of the throttle body pigtails and need to figure out how to replace that, the plastic breather tube on the expansion tank overflow was very brittle and broke (only $20 for a replacement). And I also found a mouse had chewed on one of my knock sensor wires so need to replace the harness. I had no issues getting the injectors out or supercharger off, even without an engine hoist.
If you just need to replace your coolant pipes I would say anyone can do it in their garage. It's "easy" compared to the valve covers. You can do that in day no problem. What I found took much more than expected was reinstalling the gaskets on the valve covers and teflon seals on the injectors. I removed the captured screws and rubber washers from the valve covers when removing the old seal (and to clean them). That was mistake as its a pain to get them all put back in. You need to remove the rubber washer to re-insert them so multiple that by 20x and it gets tedious.
My valve covers gaskets were pretty brittle and broke apart when removing, so can see why they were leaking.
I do want to confirm that rubber gaskets are not supposed to sit flush where it lays on top on the rubber washers. Im assume those will compress once you start to torque the valve cover down. I was confused if maybe the washers went over the gasket, but looks like they go under.
the original gasket sat flush at the screw holes but when installing the new gasket it bulges out at each screw hole because of the rubber washer behind it.
Hey guys, I am so glad to hear this is helping others. I'm sorry it took so long for me to upload the return trip video, but here it is going back together. No narration, just parts going back on in their order as guided by Snap-On's Shopkey Pro shop database..