Thank you, but I think the forum didnt let the links through. I live in Los Angeles. Most cars here have high mileage. And I'm pretty specific about color and trims. Although the one w/ HD would be awesome. But I'm going to go look at FB!

 

I sent you a message with the link.

 

Rust is par for the course. You need to reseal annually. I’ve elected to use rust conversion, and seal with corrosion seal.

There are significant differences between blue book, black book and market pricing.
But for a premium price I’m hopeful it has had a minimum of 5 oil changes. 10 would be better.
That the coolant pipes are in good condition.
And don’t worry about it…. these vehicles eat bushings ;-). Account for this in your maintenance budget.

 

There are a few opinions here I would contest. First on price, it's high but it's not unrealistic. Good luck finding a vehicle with that mileage and the service history you report at the prices some are quoting, and if you do find one at those prices I'd suggest you're highly wary. That's not to say there aren't some bargains out there, but people do seek out these vehicles (just refer to Bring a Trailer listings) and they don't make them any more. By way of reference, I paid $50K in 2020 for one of the very last LR4s to be produced; it had about 30k miles and there were plenty of buyers lined up. The Silver Edition (shown above) is the base model and has a different spec to the Landmark, which is the HSE Lux model. Some extras were available on the Silver edition, but more and different ones were available on the Lux (Landmark). Prices are different accordingly. The LR website has the detail.

On maintenance, I wouldn't agree with the statement that they go through bushings quickly; it's not accurate. I've had perhaps 10 of these vehicles in the past 18 years and have easily got 70+K miles on my bushings, although I rarely offroad them (lanes yes, off road, not). It all depends on how it's been used.

You should plan on changing the coolant pipes and the prices quoted are not off the mark too much. It's doable yourself, but it's a lot of work and if you're not comfortable playing mechanic for a few days, don't. There's a lot to get wrong. There is one excellent YT video that walks one through the process, however. FYI there is no way of knowing the condition of the coolant pipes without pulling the supercharger etc off, so don't believe a dealer who tells you they're fine. At best they could confirm that they don't leak - yet. Also, a gradual coolant leak is hard to spot unless you're looking. If you really want to check, remove the sump plate, get the vehicle in a very dark garage, and start examining it with a UV light. Odds are you'll find some seepage.

Check the AC blows cold. Get them to send a video.

There's nothing remotely concerning about the rust; it fact it looks very clean. They do not need to be sealed at all on the underside; I have never done this. However, if driving where salt is down in the winter you need to wash the underside at least weekly in the winter. Sealing them can often make matters far worse and create myraid issues with electrics. Don't do it.

If the car is a long way from you, I agree that it might be wise to wait and see what crops up locally. There will be others. Also, if you're going to pay a premium, ensure you get the HD option (i.e. low range box). It's not remotely essential and the standard high range box vehicles are still outstanding offroad, but for big money seek it out (unlike the guy on BaT who paid a fortune for one without, and I think only realised after the fact).

Good luck.

 

:-) Perhaps it depends on how you use the vehicle. It is my get off the road, get dirty and wet vehicle. And in all the weather. As I'm in Canada, like in the UK, a re-application of a rust inhibitor is a preferred annual maintenance item.
I agree on the valley coolant pipes. Many have had the air con issues, knock on wood, I haven't, yet. It is a big, heavy vehicle. brakes, bushings, tires, gas all take there toll.

But my HSE Lux is a great vehicle. Smooth, comfortable and capable. I keeping it as long as I can. By all accounts the Disco 5 is supposed to be better but I just don't like the look.

 

Thank you so, so much, @pagoda ! Yes the car is on the other side of the country. But it's the right color inside and outside, and it's the LUX model (not Landmark). I am relieved about the rust being only surface rust. Do you think that it would be a good idea once I buy it to just replace the coolant pipes? About $4K? Does the water pump need to be replaced at the same time?

I would love to find an LR4 red/black or green/black w/ the HD package, but I've been watching for a couple of years now and have not seen any - there was a green one on BAT, but it had almond interior and those don't hold up well (I intend to hold on to the car for a long time). BAT does seem to have some great LR4s, but they seem to go for about the same price as this one, so I'm very tempted to pull the trigger (so to speak).

 

Adding the carfax for opinions from the hive mind, please. Thank you so much

 

Most definately, if you purchase replace the front and rear crossover pipes, waterpump and thermmostat/housing. Use Oem JLR parts. It is just not worth it on these cars to take a chance as if one of these fail driving down the highway, you warp the heads and maybe the block before you can really pull over and shut it off. Parts can be had ffor about USD 500 or so. Perhaps you can DYI or ffind an independent that can reduce the cost of this.

 

I wish I was a DYI-er but unfortunately I am not. Sounds like I will need to replace all these parts as soon as I purchase the car. IF i end up purchasing the car.
Thank you so much!

 

I read your report. Unfortunately, there is never very much detail there; precisely “what” was done during the “scheduled maintenance” is not offered.
Not a problem, the dealer would have access to the detailed maintenance history using the vin.

Truly, the only thing that annoys me about the report is not going to the LR dealership but to a quick lube place for maintenance.
But as is my habit, I always change ALL fluids on receiving a used vehicle anyways.

As there is less than 60k on it, I’m not convinced that on a 2016 there is a pressing need to change those components now.
Mine, a 2015. 165k kms. All scheduled maintenance done plus;
New crossover pipes, recently (when i started to smell coolant)
New alternator, recently.
New rear brake lines, recently.
New brakes, recently.
New pcv valve, recently. And that is it. No need to touch the timing chains yet.
And you are not near my mileage and I doubt this one has been used as roughly.


Best of luck.