Hey all - I've got a 2011 LR4 with 158,000 miles. I've recently been experiencing a bad steering wheel vibration when braking at higher highway speeds of 60-80mph or quick braking at lower speeds of 30-40mph. I've also noticed my car pulling to the left when on a straight away portion of the highway traveling at 70-80mph. I've had two sets of front rotors and pads put on this vehicle in the last year, the first set was a pair of slotted 3GD rotors that turned out to be warped and the second was a factory pair. I have not experienced or heard the "knocking" that I've been reading about on the forum boards, is that something that I would definitely hear if the control arms were in need of replacement? Is it possible that my alignment is off?

If the control arms are bad, how difficult is this job as a DIY'er with minor wrenching experience? The videos I've seen look pretty straightforward and not overly complicated.

I've been quoted through a local indy shop at $1700 for replacement of the front LCA's... Is this how much this job should cost? Saw some pricing around the forum, but is pretty outdated now.

Thanks all!

 

The front lowers are usually the first to go. Using a pry-bar on the bushes will quickly tell you if they're done. I'd advise having a professional do it as there are quite a few step involved in prep and replacement for ride height, some significant torque, the right tools, and an alignment after. Should take no more than 2 hours at a specialists.

 

Done 4 sets of LCA's myself no big mystery to doing them. You will based on being in Northern Indiana need to be prepared to cut the bolts out with a sawzall. On a rust free truck without siezed bolts 2 hours is possible but realistically you are looking at 4-6. You will need an alignment afterwards. Tools is your standard fair plus, a 32mm socket, air hammer is nice, impact wrench makes things quicker. There are a few video's on youtube that will walk you through

 

I would not even waste time trying to remove the bolts, just cut em off. Heck, some cut the arm. The biggest "gotcha" may be with the axle nuts. There are two possibilities so I always keep both on hand. You should not re-use the old ones, ideally, unless you must. At least according to the book. With that said you may be able to do the arms without removing the knuckle but without lift it would be a pain. And on that note, upper control arm ball joint stud. Careful when tightening. They snap. If you want to try removing bolts without cutting, soak the bolts for days and days beforehand. If you cut, spend GOOD money on metal sawzall blades.

Axel nuts types: (of note, one size is 32mm but the other I think is 36mm) (also of note, the nuts match the half-shaft threads, so dont go putting the wrong one on and mess em up)
RFD500020 x2 (thread = m24x1.5)
LR024151 x2 (thread = M24x2.0)

And if you replace all the lower arm hardware with new, this list is for ONE side only so double up if doing both sides:
Lower arm hardware:
RDI000034 bolt at frame x2
RYF000203 camber washer at frame x2
WA116106 regular washer at frame x2
FX116056 nut at frame x2
FX116056 nut at ball joint x1
FX116056 nut at strut x1
RYG000440 bolt at strut x1

 

Thanks all! Super appreciative of the great information. At what mileage do these things typically start to show signs of wear? Could this be the 2nd or 3rd pair to go on this truck with mileage over 150,000?

 

50-70k depending on how it was used

 

I am on my third set of front lowers at 190,000 miles. First set was factory, second set installed about 80k miles. Third set at 170k and I milked them out a bit. But the third set I did everything, literally every bolt, every fitting, every arm. Front rear, upper lower. The works, including new soft brake lines, bearings, dust shields. Drives like new now.

 

Took this in for a diagnosis, it is in fact the front LCA's and they also found an original water pump/coolant cross over pipe that was original to the vehicle at ~159,000 miles. Thanks all for the helpful tips. Going to try to tackle this project as the indy shop is looking close to $1,700 for the LCA's and an additional $1,000 for the water pump (might get the pump covered under extended warranty!).

 

Incredible the crossover pipe lasted that long. However the price for the control arms seems way off. New ones from Eurospare, JLR's only approved aftermarket supplier, are $120 each and labour under 5 hours for both sides, I think, with alignment. But if you can get all of it covered under warranty, that would be fantastic.

 

Thanks for everyones help on this. Turned out the LCA's were long overdue. Was able to get the water pump and coolant cross over pipe replaced under warranty and managed to get the LCA's replaced myself with an alignment done at the indy shop. You guys are a great asset, thanks for helping me diagnose and resolve this!