I am having issues with my 2011 LR4 and hoping someone can offer some incite or has had similar issues.
It will randomly start running very rough while driving, causing restricted performance and limp mode. When you pull over and turn the ignition off and on, it runs fine and you can continue until it happens again.
Previously it was running very rough 100% of the time so I replaced the throttle body and I thought I fixed the issue but now I'm stuck with this intermittent problem.
The following are the codes from the GAP tool.
Could it be a bad ground?

 

I have a similar problem but with random things going wrong, all the warning lights coming on, lowered suspension, limp mode etc etc; The only thing that has improved this is changing the battery but do a hard reset first, make sure the terminals are well connected, reset the BMS and also be sure the new battery is 100% charged before you install. You need to so at least this to have a stable base to work from and only then can you be sure the DTCs are real. I have run my car three times today and it is OK so far but it has been giving me trouble for months but I have just ordered a new car which is infinitely better off road than anything LR produce or will produce and which is infinitely less complicated, better built and more reliable - a TESLA Model Y. Oh, and they do after sales service unlike LR

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try that.

 

Your faults my not be real.
For the first
U0401-68 Invalid Data
Received from
ECM/PCM A - Event
information
Invalid data received Check the engine control module for related DTCs and refer
to the relevant DTC index

and the next

P2105 Electric throttle malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) request duel fuel cut off

The C fault might be real though and I fail to see why the miro heater is an issue. I would check the C open circuit or short circuit. The initiators are located at the front of the front wheel arches and at the rear of the rear wheel arches and are secured
with two scrivets. The TPMS has four initiators and each has a connector which connects with the body harness. I fail to see what importance they have to actual driving and have no relevance to limp mode INMNSHO

 

Yeah the TPMS system seams to be operating properly but I will check.
Do you know where the grounding point is for the TPMS?

 

Can't find it yet but check the fuses in the EJB since they go vai that and the message is typical for a bust fuse

 

Ok so I replaced the battery but still same issue.
At least now I was able to trigger the problem.
When I shift it in and out of drive or reverse several times I'm able to get it very angry.
The engine rolls and sometime stalls and the battery voltage and RPMs drop and the battery current goes very negative while monitoring on the GAP tool.
The only error codes it throws are for the throttle sensor. I think that is from the drop in voltage.

Any ideas?

 

What do you mean when you say the battery voltage “goes negative”? Do you simply mean it drops in voltage? If so, by how much (e.g., from 14.4v or so down to 12.6v or so, or even lower)? The running alternator will typically put out about 14.4v, but the battery maintenance system will turn it off as it senses the battery is at full charge. But, with the car running, you really should not be seeing voltages dip much below about 12.4v or so (at least that’s my understanding). Before doing more testing, I would check your battery to make sure its staying charged. A new battery should be reading above 12.6v with the engine off (make sure to let the car set for a good 10 min to make sure all systems have shut down). Any lower and you probably have at least a charging system problem (e.g., bad alternator).

As for the shifting in and out of gear causing rough idle and stalling, that almost sounds like a different problem. I’m not sure why shifting in and out of gear would exacerbate an electrical problem. You are increasing the load on the engine when putting into gear, so that might exacerbate any kind of fuel/air mixture problem. Since you have the GAP tool, you might check your long term and short term fuel trims at idle, and then monitor them when you put the car into gear. They should be around 0 +/- 5% at idle.

What rpm does it idle at in park - about 650 rpm? High idle often indicates a vacuum leak, which also can cause stalling when you put it into gear (lean fuel mixture).

Might try keeping your ac compressor off as well and see if that changes anything- sometimes a bad compressor can drag pretty hard on the belts, and even make the belt slip (causing the alternator to drop volts).

None of this really accounts for that throttle sensor code, especially with a brand new throttle body. Might take a careful look at the wiring harness to the throttle body - make sure there is no damage. You could also reset the engine adaptations using the GAP tool, but the engine really should learn new adaptations after driving it a while anyway.

 

It is the current that is going negative. On live values mine is usually 2 or more but sometimes zero or -1 amps. I have no idea what IID is measuring s don't know what it means.
I thnk the throttle DTC is a red herring. None of the original DTCs have come back so it is just a glitch and if you read the workshop manual you soon find out how the assignment of DTCs seems a bit random.
I still have similar problems and so far doing a hard reset and new battery seems to have alleviated them somewhat but I have found no definitive cause yet

 

So, just went for a drive and had HDC then EBA then DSC lights and the suspension lowered. No limp mode and just comms error (U). No idea what to do but these three are all related to abs so I will see what I can check there