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Ignition goes off when trying to start

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Old Mar 20, 2024 | 07:15 AM
  #11  
Youngin's Avatar
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2024
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Originally Posted by stoksu
yes mate, it was abs pump that does not allow to start if break fluid has not reached correct pressure. I was doing it after lifting the body and all breakes were still disconnected. Ive connected all break pipes bled them up and car started without any issues. Hope this helps in your case

Raf

Please does this work on a Ranger Rover Sports supercharged 2019? Do I have to change the ABS pump or I just have to bleed all the brakes up?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 07:28 PM
  #12  
Oj12's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2025
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Default Hi any one found the solution of no crank no start . I ve got l494

Originally Posted by Hotjava69
What ended up being the fix for this? I have the exact same problem on my 17 Range Rover.
Hi any solution a
​​​
i am in same situation no crank no start . Only starts by relay short. I got l494 just had full engine rebuild and now it's not starting from button . Pls help as it's getting really frustrating
 
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 12:46 PM
  #13  
jemsautorepair's Avatar
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2025
Posts: 1
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Default made this account just to try and help you guys

to compliment the previous posts on this thread.... same condition here at the shop and even on the professional level there is poor support so thought id try and help you guys out..

customer states vehicle has a no crank condition however powers up normally.
when stepping on brake and attempting to start (pushing button while hold brake pedal) vehicle shuts down.

performed dtc scan and no relevant faults, however, tcu (telematics unit) missing during fault scan.
skip ahead and checked voltage at tcu (located drivers rear c pillar behind panel). remove weather strip for door and metal clips and should give you enough room to see the connector.
inspect white red wire for battery voltage with key on.
if no voltage present this is where my issue was found which sounds like alot of you guys are dealing with.

under the DRIVERS side carpet just before the seat (you will have to remove the seat , or in my case lean it back, to examine. if the bolts are fairly healthy then a 10 mm 6 point socket will work) the harness runs down the floor and takes a very sharp bend between bpillar and front floor panel before the seat. everything clipped in and taped as it was at the factory. pull the tape back slightly enough to find the white wire with red trace (believe 18gauge/ thin wire). once found moderatily pull the wire away from the drivers door wide right where that bend is and likely will find the wire corroded and broken. almost as if the insulation cracked over time and allowed the moisture to get in. fix the wire (solder and heat shrink) and retape with cloth tape if possible. test either at tcu or via code scan. or just try and start it.

i only made this account to try and help you guys with what i found because its obviously a manufacturing defect with how hard that bend is. good luck guys
 
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Old Apr 9, 2025 | 05:38 AM
  #14  
AVLDefender's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 150
Likes: 60
Default

Originally Posted by jemsautorepair
to compliment the previous posts on this thread.... same condition here at the shop and even on the professional level there is poor support so thought id try and help you guys out..

customer states vehicle has a no crank condition however powers up normally.
when stepping on brake and attempting to start (pushing button while hold brake pedal) vehicle shuts down.

performed dtc scan and no relevant faults, however, tcu (telematics unit) missing during fault scan.
skip ahead and checked voltage at tcu (located drivers rear c pillar behind panel). remove weather strip for door and metal clips and should give you enough room to see the connector.
inspect white red wire for battery voltage with key on.
if no voltage present this is where my issue was found which sounds like alot of you guys are dealing with.

under the DRIVERS side carpet just before the seat (you will have to remove the seat , or in my case lean it back, to examine. if the bolts are fairly healthy then a 10 mm 6 point socket will work) the harness runs down the floor and takes a very sharp bend between bpillar and front floor panel before the seat. everything clipped in and taped as it was at the factory. pull the tape back slightly enough to find the white wire with red trace (believe 18gauge/ thin wire). once found moderatily pull the wire away from the drivers door wide right where that bend is and likely will find the wire corroded and broken. almost as if the insulation cracked over time and allowed the moisture to get in. fix the wire (solder and heat shrink) and retape with cloth tape if possible. test either at tcu or via code scan. or just try and start it.

i only made this account to try and help you guys with what i found because its obviously a manufacturing defect with how hard that bend is. good luck guys
Thank you! That was super kind of you to make an account to share your solution!
 
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