I'm currently planning on getting a new 110 built to order, but I'm not going to wait for 12+ months for it to be built without an offroader (lost my Rubicon to a freak accident). I'm considering getting an LR4 to fill this gap, and possibly keep it as a backup or a second vehicle when 110 arrives. Specifically, LR4 HSE with as many offroad options as possible - the vehicle will be used as a cargo hauler and overlander with occasional light rock crawling where unavoidable.

Background: I've been doing my own maintenance on many cars of different origins (Japanese, German, and a Jeep) for longer than I wish I did, but never had a JLR vehicle before. Obviously, LR4 of this age will have either outright problems, or things that happen in a car of that age naturally. I'm limited to a shopping area with extreme heat and occasional snowbirds, so rust is probably not a problem if the vehicle was here all its life, but rubber, plastic, hoses, and harnesses are. I've already been made aware that the air suspension is something to pay extreme attention to.

The question is - what would be the telltale signs of LR4 (or general LR) specific problems that are easy to overlook not knowing what they are but expensive or time consuming to fix? In particular, how do I make sure the air suspension works the way it should, having never ridden or driven a vehicle with it before?

And another question - is there an authoritative source on all the options available for LR4 HSE?

 

There's a lot of information on this site and the other LR site (LR owners) specific to LR4. Your choices are two engines (3 & 5L) and two different gear boxes (6 or 8 speed). There's no right answer to which engine is better or worse; both have issues. The 8 speed box is, though, superior.

If you're looking to off road then the Heavy Duty (HD) package is a must for you and this because a cost-option at some point (maybe 2013ish - someone will know). The HD pack gives you a lockable rear diff. You will also want to ensure that the vehicle has the low range (transfer box). This is easily identifiable by looking at the switches on the dash - if it has a Hi/Low switch then it has the transfer box. Spotting the HD package is harder. A vehicle with HD was born with a full-size spare, but I assume many people who bought a vehicle with the space saver will have added a full size spare as the space saver is ridiculous on an SUV of this weight. Unless you have the build sheet for the vehicle (or window sticker) a certain way to tell is to look down the rear axle and check for a solonoid housing (for want of a better term) a-top the axle, which is an indication of the locking diff.

There are plenty of things to look out for with the LR4, but it's also a superb vehicle and outstanding off road. Lastly to your point on air suspension, the only way to tell if it's OK is to test drive and test the suspension. If rust is an issue in your area, check underneath as the air tank can rust through if not cared for.

 

my take on a 10-12 year old LR4. Even the newest ones are now are 7 years old.
The 5.0 v8 is powerful and fits the 2.5 ton vehicle. The SC v6 to me feels like it is working harder. fuel mileage is only perhaps 1mpg better and i doubt it will be any better if towing or fully loaded.
I would definately get a 2 speed transaxle model. some of the later ones do not have low range. Also a locking rear diff was an option but i think fairly rare.
Items that may be a problem, upcomng problem or expensive:
5.0V8 early 2010-2012. possible timing chain tensioner wear especially if oil changes were not perfomed at 5k miles or less [factory recommended something like 13k miles]. If worn, you can hear the chain "rattling" chewing AFIK
Water pump and crossover tubes: LR used plastic water transfer tubes which after many heating/cooling cycles and age are prone to crack and dump all of your coolant is a short period of time. Water pump typically needs replacement at arouun 100k miles. Replacing both the pump and associated crossover tubes and hoses etc. calls for parts of about $500 or so but labor is intensive if you pay a shop to do it...expect $1500.
Front lower suspension wishbone busings wear out. Replacement lower arms are about $400 total; also needs alignment after replacement
Air suspension is great on LR4 but at 10 years or so, i would expect the bags to be near the endo of their life. Pump is probably worn out, front and rear distribution blocks may need replacement. Best way to tell what you have is to drive it and move it through the normal, access, extended heights while listening for noisey pump or obvious air leaks/hiss. Then measure each wheel center to top of arch and record the measurements, park it overnight without starting and return the next day and remeasure. compare values to day before. if differences of more than a quarter inch or so are noticed, expect problems.
mine recently wore out it transfer case at 94k miles...i dont think this is typical but cost was $4500 for new installed. LR parts are expensive.

As a sidenote, the LR4 drives fantastic, is luxurious, tows most anything and is probably the most comfortable vehicle I have ever owned.

 

Would I be correct if I say that the most visible difference would be the presence or absence of part #8 (differential lock motor) on rear suspension, axle and differential diagram?

Will it be possible to inspect this with just the mechanic's creeper while the vehicle is on the ground, or it needs to be lifted to be seen?

How? Will it help if I bring over ramps and get it up one rear wheel on the ramp at a time?

Rust won't be unless the vehicle has spent part of its life elsewhere, I'll be more concerned about harnesses and plastic parts. Thanks for the warning, though, where is the air tank located on those diagrams above?

 

Hear, hear. One of mine is 20, the other is 10, we had an old lady total our 19, and another at 5 - all of these were bought news, spec'd to order. Also bought a couple used, at 22 and 13 - and I was amazed how poorly some people treat their vehicles, and how a little TLC can do wonders to them. But I digress, I heard this phrase once - "when you're buying a used car, you're screwed already, it's just a matter of how badly" Things you list are exactly the things I was looking for, thank you for taking your time to write this up.

Does it rattle just on cold starts, or it's a constant irregular sound that gets worse when you blip the throttle off idle? Does the sound disappear when the engine is warm?

Flashback: just replaced a coolant pump on a densely packed biturbo car. Most of the repair time was staring at bolts and pieces and figuring out how to get to them, and how to get parts out and back in. Negative clearance in some places, had to stress parts for access - and this is by service manual. I hope it's going to be easier here

Is this visible through the wheels or from the creeper? Are bushings replaceable (have the shop press, not afraid to use it, did it before), or you need to replace the whole arms?
The first part sounds like something I can determine on a test drive, but the second... I guess I'll have to listen closely and take a calculated risk.
Does the vehicle stay at the same height with the engine off? I'd guess it would be easier to hear the hiss then, right?
Don't know about LR in particular, but I always heard people say "german car parts are expensive", and then I had a failure on a Japanese car... Well, to make it short, the set of sensors on a German V8 was about a quarter of a price of the set for an I4 Japanese car of the same age. It's a lottery
So I heard, and that's why I'm here. My Rubicon did wonders offroad and I loved it there, but I really, really resented the anemic engine and road noise.