For now I just have just installed the additive in the old fluid, as a way to test if it was a fluid issue or mechanical issue. Once my fluid arrives (decided on Mercon SP) I plan on doing two or three drain & fill operations.

I will not be changing the pan or the filter; from what I have read, and from my conversation with a local independent landrover mechanic, it is not necessary unless addressing a specific issue like a leak, or valve body problem, or that harness seal.

Of course if you have to drop the pan it is a lot easier to reinstall a steel pan with separate filter because that way the crossmember and the exhaust do not have to come off. Otherwise they say leave it alone and just replace the fluid. I trust his opinion - his family LR3 has 470k km; original pan & filter, and many of his customers' 3s and 4s are in the high 300k also all original transmission pans.

 

Well, I can lend support to changing the fluid. My drain and fill this evening only exchanged 3.5L, but even that was enough to make a big difference. About 90% fixed and I have fluid for another exchange shortly. RPM hunt is now barely perceptible. The stuff that came out was black.

Would be nice if the process didn't involve filling with the engine running right next to the hot exhaust...

 

As I continue to think about my situation, and the quality of the fluid that came out, I am more and more intrested in doing a full fluid exchange.

Motorsport, over at rangerover.net put together something that sounds doable.

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/...-flush.127114/

Without having a better knowledge of the fluid movement within the transmission, I have not yet been able to confirm that this is not simply just mixing like multiple drain and fills would do. Theoretically if the fluid flowed through the cooler after doing work within the transmission and then back to the sump, there might be benefit in doing it this way. If, rather, the cooler is simply circulating from and back to the sump there is much less benefit.

 

Drove about 600km with the lubegard in there. Still no hunting under normal operating conditions, but a tiny bit remains when cold (started the drive at below freezing this morning). Took about 10-15km to warm up and the hunting was gone. I definitely think the full flush will address the balance of this annoyance.

That is a great writeup, thanks for sharing. I'm not sure mine has the same cooler setup, but should be similar enough. I have not pulled the skid plate yet to take a good look.

As far as i understand (and i may be wrong), the pump draws from the sump, pushes through the torque converter, then to the cooler, then back to the sump, hitting the gear train on the way down. I'm not sure if there are bypass circuits, probably are, but either way a flush like this one should be quite thorough. I have done similar on a ford explorer with a 5r55e, and it worked great. Except i would pump 2 litres out, kill the engine, then fill two litres, repeat x6. But that thing had a dipstick so there was no need to get under the vehicle, and certainly no need to fill from the bottom.

As to whether to attempt this or not - I'm in the same boat - not sure how much benefit over 2-3 drain & fills this would be. Main benefit is that only have to get on my back and burn my hands once... I have to do front diff oil as well, so i'll pull the skid plate and see.

Either way, i'll update this thread, and will keep a log of low-temperature performance in the meanwhile.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sh-diy-217150/

Tom,

I found this over on a jag forum. Looks like a nice DIY solution.

I'm definitely leaning towards doing a flush like this. The way my fluid came out I'm really wondering if the filter is even reasonable to continue to use. At least in my case the fluid wad really over due for a change.

 

I ended up doing two drain & fills today, using merc sp. Had the time but did not have the parts to make the flush adapters, and did not want to go to the store. First drain was nasty. Second was less so. I think I'll do a third at the next oil change.

All rpm hunting & fluctuation is gone, and downships are markedly improved.

 

Tom,

Glad you are getting good results as well. I think I have an easier solution than the connector as recommended in that jaguar post. Removing the coolant lines from the side of the transmission and adapting there seems a little tougher then adapting at the fill plug and trans cooler output.

The quick disconnect at the trans cooler output should accept a 1/2 inch hose for removing the old fluid.

Threads at the fill port are M18 x 1.5. For a couple bucks I ordered an adapter that will thread in and then accept a 1/2 in hose for rapid fill

If it works this way the only piece that will need to be purchased is the threaded nipple if some hose is laying around.

Will post pics if it works.

 

New to the LR4 SCV6 but with long experience of the LR3, is it not possible to do the flush at the transmission oil cooler on the left side of the rad on the LR4? I'm not familiar with the jag engine layout in the link to the flush procedure above but compared to the LR3 ZF6 flush process it seems to be vastly and unnecessarily complicated. On the V8 all you need to do is disconnect the oil line to the cooler, run the engine until the fluid stops spewing out and then refill via the same hose. On the V8 it gets about 5-6L out in about 10 seconds. Refill takes a little longer. A UK site member did a great write up and I can post if folks aren't familiar.

Just wondered if this is an option on the LR4 3.0? (I haven't looked closely enough at my engine yet).

 

its not just the fluid you want to get out, its the [most likely] dirty filter you want to change as well.
you can do a flush as you describe, but the initial drain and fill should be done under the car, by changing the pan and filter.

 

A fair point, but considering that many have found the filter to be pretty clear, I think there are benefits of doing the flush more frequently without the filter change. The difference of doing the flush alone is considerable (on the diesels and V8s I've owned). While it's of course good practice to change the filter, it's a lot more involved and expensive (on top of the already expensive Lifeguard fluid) and may not yield much difference.

Back to my question, can I confirm that it is possible to do the fluid flush on the SCV6 at the cooler as with the V8? I think you're staying it is, but wanted to confirm. Thanks.