yes.
remove the inlet (feed) tube at the trans cooler. run the car. this will drain the transmission. reconnect the inlet tube.
remove the outlet tube from the trans cooler. connect an extension hose connected to the outlet hose, pout the extension into a bottle(s) of fluid. run the car.

the amount of fluid you fill with will either need to be measured/compared with what was pumped out. or you'll need to still do the fill plug removal/drip method in order to make sure it has the correct amount.

 

Thanks. Familiar with the process, as well as burning my arm on the car refilling. Grateful for confirmation.

For those unfamiliar with the quick flush process FOR THE V8, I found the link: https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/filos...ssion%2Bcooler

It's very quick and easy. Just note that the fluid spews out under considerable pressure when draining so a helper helps. Refilling via the transmission drain plug should be done with the transmission at the correct temp. Generally I get 5-6L using this method, noting that it doesn't have the benefit of the new filter.

Here's a link to the ZF8 speed box oil change from the UK site if useful for anyone here.

 

Very good point!
Please do let the world know if it works; i plan on keeping up on the transmission fluid changes and this would make the job much easier. Still need some pressure to push the fluid into the fill port though for it to match the speed at which it pumps out? Pressurized jerry can?

 

I finally got around to doing a second drain and fill on my transmission. This replaced roughly 4 quarts of fluid. I'm happy to say that this appears to have resolved my issues with the fluctuating and with a hesitant shift I would get at lower speeds. I'm just at 80k miles so I have no idea how anyone can get close to 150k without experiencing any issues. In short, don't rely on the LR maintenance interval to change your transmission fluid.

 

EDIT: FLUID EXCHANGE ONLY WORKED FOR A SHORT TIME, READ ON FOR MY FOLLOW UP POST.

Happy to report full resolution with fluid exchange. Drain and fill wasn't enough for me, at least not the first one. I didn't just want more dilution so went with a full exchange as described here:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...change-103398/

The key is the m18 1.5 fitting into the fill hole. Makes the job so much easier.

 

Also happy to report that all my issues with rpm fluctuations are gone with a filter and fluid exchange. I had over 120 miles on original fluid. I went ahead and got the upgrade pan from Atlantic British. Put 5 quarts in of fresh fluid and a new filter and problem solved. It even smoothed out my transmission, feels great.

Getting those pan bolts out were a pain in the ***. One stripped too. Thank God it was not one of the screws that was under the cross member.

 

So, I'm coming full circle on this issue. Although the fluid exchange did work for a while, after about 10k miles the slight fluctuation returned. It really hasn't affected driving so I've been ignoring it.

This weekend I towed a travel trailer over 400mi and up several long steep grades. There were no failures, and we made it home just fine but it just feels wrong.

At this point I'm leaning toward a torque converter rebuild. New fluid worked for a while, but couldn't really fix the underlying problem.

Have any of you that initially reported success with fluid change experienced the same thing?

 

Lately, my '09 Honda Accord has been experiencing weird RPM fluctuations. When idling, the RPM needle oscillates between 1.5K-2K, instead of a steady value around 700-800. Sometimes, during highway drives, it randomly spikes too. I've recently replaced the spark plugs and the air filter. Still, the issue persists. Could this be an indication of a fuel system problem, throttle body issue, or something more severe? I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions on what to check next before taking it to a mechanic. Thanks in advance!

 

You are not describing the same condition at all. The condition previously described for the land rover that is being discussed here only occurs while driving, Not at idle

 

Following up regarding my experience with the RPM fluctuation while driving. As previously stated by others, changing the fluid is a reasonable first attempt. This did seem to provide temporary success for myself as well, however the problem remained subtle and did return after a couple thousand miles of driving.

A little over 1000 Miles ago I went ahead and did a minor transmission refresh by installing a "zip kit" to update some of the mechatronic valve seals, and I also replaced all of the transmission solonoids.

I didn't have the tool to electronically reset the transmission adaptations, so it seemed to take a couple of days for the transmission to learn the new solenoids and zip kit. Within about 3 days, however all of the rpm fluctuations resolved. We are traveling cross country with a travel trailer and have now towed over 1000 miles and the RPMs now hold steady in all gears whether in drive or manual shift mode.