I Picked up a 2010 Range Rover Sport. Battery was dead so I picked up a new Interstate and replaced the Duralast. I had to replace the radiator and AC Condenser. The suspension was working perfectly, all height levels were attainable. While waiting for the radiator to arrive, the new Interstate went dead, even though it was on a battery tender. I charged the old Duralast and put it back in the Sport. Now I get a Suspension Fault, Normal height only. I need to check the fuses and relay, but are there any wires in or around the battery box that may impact the Suspension system? I did not open the fuse box and the only wiring that I unplugged was related to the radiator fan, coolant overflow bottle and some other bumper-related plugs, cameras, sensors, etc. The rear stayed up at normal height, but the fronts dropped to access mode.....Help. Phil

ps while washing it this morning, I noticed a faint buzzing coming from the area around the left rear shock assembly, could be the source of the battery drain, more detective work to come.

 

Truck runs great, I just can't get the suspension options to kick in. Meanwhile the front has dropped to access mode. Is there any way to by pass the system and manually raise the front? More importantly, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2010 range rover sport or lr4? thanks phil

 

Here are the two suspension faults. The air pump was buzzing with the key off. I removed the cover and unplugged the pump Buzzing stopped. Tried to clear the fault with the pump unplugged it didn’t clear. Is the pump shot. The pump looks like new. Not a spec of dust on it.

RLM-Suspension

• C1A36-01 (AF) Exhaust valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
  ( on 05-07-2021 09:48:41 at 131920 mi )
• C1A27-12 (AF) Compressor circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery
  ( on 05-07-2021 09:48:40 at 131920 mi )

Update - I pulled the center console and disassembled the height switch assembly. I had a fair amount of coffee or soda residue. I also had a deflection on the circuit board when the access height button was depressed causing the underlying switch on the circuit board not to engage fully. I inserted a small piece of firm foam between the circuit board and the cover that helped to keep the board from deflecting. Although the switch was no spotless, it didn't clear up my suspension fault.

I tried to manually turn on the air compressor by connecting plugs 3 and 5 on the relay on the fuse box next to the battery. No luck. I had an extra air pump and plugged it in, in place of the one in the truck. I did not attach the air lines,, just the plugs. It didn't start up but it did start to buzz after about 10 to 15 seconds, just like the one in the truck. So I am back to zero. I still have the two suspension faults. I can't clear them with a hard reset or with the Gap Tool.

(interestingly, the Gap Tool shows the fault as of May 9, 2021. That is before I got the truck. However, when I got it, the suspension seemed to work fine. It only started showing the fault and stopped working when I installed the new radiator and did some cleaning up under the hood.)

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Phil

2010 Range Rover Sport HSE 5.0

 

A quick update, i went through all of the front end wiring harnesses trying to find a loose connection. No luck. I tested the voltage at the plug coming into the air compressor for the suspension, 0 volts. Using my Gap Tool, I cleared faults. The suspension fault did clear, but it did come back on after about ten seconds after clearing. I was able to get the message that the system was "raising" but nothing actually happened, there just isn't any power getting to the pump. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the suspension system? I am sure that it is an easy fix, I just need to know where to look. thanks Phil

 

Try clearing the code, then testing the voltage at the plug coming into the compressor. Some codes will shut down the circuit for protection. If you are getting voltage at the plug when the code is cleared but the pump is still not working, I expect your pump is shot. The code is showing a short to battery (hot side), which will sometimes happen when an electric motor is shot.

 

well the mystery has been solved. suspension works perfectly. I changed out the radiator core support on the Range Rover Sport. There is a plug under the left hand corner. It was dark and I didn't notice that I hadn't plugged that connection back in. Luxe Electrical in San Diego found the problem. Now it is time to have the hood repaired, and bumper painted and reinstalled. This truck drives really well.

I did notice that I might have a very small oil leak coming from the vacuum pump gasket. I have never changed one of those, Any hints. Bingo! Phil

 

I'm having the exact same issues as those you described with my 2012 LR4. I've replaced just about everything there is to replace in the air suspension system at this point, still no luck. I was just wondering which specific electrical connector you were referring to? Are you talking about the big connector that sits under the driver side headlight? Or is there another one somewhere that fixed your suspension issues?

Thanks!

 

Sorry I hadn't looked at this for a bit, it was a smaller connector that sits right under the upper bar of the radiator support on the driver's side. Hope you were able to resolve your issue. Phil