My 2012 Chevy 3/4 van runs at a solid 210 no matter what. Ive had it in Utah at 20 degrees and here at 120 degrees. I wish I could get my L/R that consistent. My ultragauge alarm is set to 207. Thats as high as I ever want it to go. I'll shut it down. I started a thread awhile ago about additional cooling for our extreme summer temps here and Savannah had the same suggestions. I think this is the most solid advice on this forum. Mine will get the chevy mod too. I think this along w the 180 stat and a fully functional radiator will work for what I need.

 

Pix tell a story -

What can be done with a D2 and a 180F Land Rover (not motorad) stat, radiator in good shape

What might be happening under the hood, depending on stock gauges to be accurate is a problem.

Even on D1s the "time constant" of the gauge leaves something to be desired. 235 is not "normal range"

My thought is that if we had accurate info, we could make our own choices on when to react, rather than waiting for the red light on a D2 (284 F). If we keep our radiators flushed out every two years (read your owner manual) things will perform better. The chemical reactions inside radiators is 24/7, just faster when heated up.

Engines can be designed to run hot for pollution control. But a 1962 Buick Skylark engine was designed to run at 180F. All these other "improvements" have been "lipstick on a pig" to use more complicated controls to squeeze out numbers for the government guys.

As for modern aluminum engines running at elevated temps, my Kia V6 van runs at 180F, and moves quicker than the Disco. 270,000 miles, and I have made the last payment! 23-24 mpg on freeway. Running at elevated temps is a design choice to solve some regulatory problem. Millions of vehicles made it through life without pollution control devices, and with thermostats under 200F.

And the lower temp stat will mask, for some period of time known only to the Rover gods, problems with rest of cooling system, like those who drink the Dexcoolade.

If you have a D1, these is a plug on the intake for old style heater system, could be a source of coolant flow to an external radiator. But should not need it in most applications. If you had it up on the roof rack, hot coolant leak from a hose will screw up your paint.

 

The best "mod" is making sure the entire cooling system is in good shape. Remember, these engines operate in the Sahara without issue, when in good shape.

 

Good shape is the important word. Pix of D2 rad with calcium chunk buildup, it is so big it won't dissolve and flush out easily (you'll get some, but not all). At $200 for a radiator, it is disposable.

 

That's why I included it.

My point was that if you're making modifications to increase cooling odds are good you're doing the same thing people are doing when they install a steering damper to fix death wobble.

 

True - a 180F stat will cut temp running at highway speed. But a sludged radiator or wimpy clutch or blocked with mud radiator will raise temps at idle. Murphy's Law 346.98(a) sub xivv states that a junior technician shall stop looking at the first problem found.

 

When you say change thermostat selection which one would u change to on a disco II ?

 

180 f stat from Rovers North or another LR source, not dealer, and not motorad

 

If this is a DI, which it sounds like, why not recore the radiator to a 4 core? Then you are retaining the same tanks, mounts, etc. while gaining more cooling ability

 

you are correct it is a D1, a copper raditor is easily recored