MPG Mods
#11
04-08-2012, 08:42 PM
Baja
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Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Behavior Modification
Driving slower is basically a behavior modification. Most of the people today are constantly in a hurry.
Of course if you avoid excessive acceleration, higher cruisng speeds and heavy application of brakes, you will save fuel and wear and tear on the vehicle.
Planning the routes can also have a significant effect.
I do not know if limiting your max rpm's to such a low limit is the absolute bst though. If you do not get it hot enough or never wind it up, won't it tend to carbon up a lot more? That certainly cannot be good for it long term.
Of course the Octane used, proper spark plugs and oil changes as well as tire inflation, not overloading the vehicle, not carrying unnecessary weight and a variety of other things come into play also.
Avoiding changing the fuel filter due to corrosion can lead to a sudden leak and loss of all the fuel in the tank also. My fuel lines and fuel filter both sprang signficant leaks requiring total replacement of both soon after buying my Discovery.
I often have to leave mine in either 3rd or even 2nd gear to keep it from getting too fast on some of the extended downhill grades where I live.
If I left it in D it would be freewheeling 50 or better in 25 or 35 mph zones and require excessive brake riding. I prefer to use the lower gears in those situations.
MPG is just not very good on these beasts, even though driving habits can improve it.
Of course if you avoid excessive acceleration, higher cruisng speeds and heavy application of brakes, you will save fuel and wear and tear on the vehicle.
Planning the routes can also have a significant effect.
I do not know if limiting your max rpm's to such a low limit is the absolute bst though. If you do not get it hot enough or never wind it up, won't it tend to carbon up a lot more? That certainly cannot be good for it long term.
Of course the Octane used, proper spark plugs and oil changes as well as tire inflation, not overloading the vehicle, not carrying unnecessary weight and a variety of other things come into play also.
Avoiding changing the fuel filter due to corrosion can lead to a sudden leak and loss of all the fuel in the tank also. My fuel lines and fuel filter both sprang signficant leaks requiring total replacement of both soon after buying my Discovery.
I often have to leave mine in either 3rd or even 2nd gear to keep it from getting too fast on some of the extended downhill grades where I live.
If I left it in D it would be freewheeling 50 or better in 25 or 35 mph zones and require excessive brake riding. I prefer to use the lower gears in those situations.
MPG is just not very good on these beasts, even though driving habits can improve it.
#12
04-08-2012, 08:44 PM
Baja
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When I had my Porsche 928, I left home an hour or more early just so I could take all the backroads with very little traffic just so I could enjoy winding it out going thru the curves and the hills. It was a lot more fun driving it like that rather than taking the main roads during rush hour. Then I would take my time over coffee and bagels or crossants.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 04-09-2012 at 08:12 PM.
#13
04-08-2012, 09:17 PM
Avoiding changing the fuel filter due to corrosion can lead to a sudden leak and loss of all the fuel in the tank also. My fuel lines and fuel filter both sprang signficant leaks requiring total replacement of both soon after buying my Discovery.
I often have to leave mine in either 3rd or even 2nd gear to keep it from getting too fast on some of the extended downhill grades where I live.
If I left it in D it would be freewheeling 50 or better in 25 or 35 mph zones and require excessive brake riding. I prefer to use the lower gears in those situations.
MPG is just not very good on these beasts, even though driving habits can improve it.
I know I need to suck it up and do the fuel filter!
Wow, thats certainly not the case with my Discovery!!! I hardly accelerate down hills!!!! No matter how long or steep it doesn't happen! I wonder if I have something that is "dragging" as in something that should be spinning but has a lot of resistance on it. First thing that comes to mind would be sticky break calipers, front diff and wheel bearings potentially need replace/ oil/ grease. If I take my foot off the gas at 55 mph, on flat ground, I slow down to 45 in 13.4 seconds. Thats without applying breaks... Sound about right for your Discovery as well?
#14
04-09-2012, 08:41 PM
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Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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A few quick questions, How long have you owned it?
Have you serviced things like the front, rear and center diff's yet?
Wheel Bearings?
Brakes? Do your brakes seem to get hot quickly? These calipers are bad about corroding and they can definitely stick/drag.
I live just outside Pittsburgh, there are some pretty steep grades and some that are not terribly steep but do go on for some pretty long distances at a good decline.
Start off in D on a level stretch, give it a steady push on the accelerator, not stomp it to the floor but enough to pull away strong and steady, what point does it shift at (RPM's and MPH). Allow the automatic to do normal shifts without holding it to the floor but allowing it to wind up "normally" and shift as it will. Note what speeds /rpm's you average for each time it shifts.
Of course if you just ease away, it will shift at a lower speed and RPM and if you stomp it and hold it it should rev up to a higher point and shift. Do all three and write them down and we can compare.
I know if I step on mine hard and hold it, it will surprise you (or it should)
There is are a few hills near my house that are 25 MPH limit and the cops like to hide and pop you for speeding. Even in third gear it will roll over 45 MPH or more just coasting. I have to drop it into second and then still use the brakes a little to keep it under 30-35.
One time I was having trouble with mine dying unexpectedly. I was on a down hill slope with the tranny in N, trying to crank it and it just continued to accelerate. It was freewheeling 40 to 50 mph with the engine dead. I found I had one of the ECU connectors disconnected near the washer reservoir. I reconnected it and that problem went away.
Mine is very peppy/responsive in that 2000 to 4000 rpm range.
I do like the way you sit up so high that you can see the traffic flow way up ahead of you and adjust your throttle accordingly. Around here, the main roads are old and obsolete. The typical drivers here will not hesitate to cut you off if there is a gap ahead of you. You can see them speeding up before they even get up to your rear bumper with the car ahead of them slowing down. They will try to swoop right in front of you if there is much room at all, then they have to slam on their brakes as soon as they cut in front of you. I like to give it just enough throttle to "close the gap" before they cut me off and watch them almost hit the car in front of them. Wish I had a big retractable ram for just such people.
You do know they weigh about 4500 pounds empty. I have had mine on the scales at the metals recycler enough to know. With that much weight, mine will accelerate on any downhill slope without any throttle input. That is why I use second and third gear to avoid having to ride the brakes to slow it down.
Have you serviced things like the front, rear and center diff's yet?
Wheel Bearings?
Brakes? Do your brakes seem to get hot quickly? These calipers are bad about corroding and they can definitely stick/drag.
I live just outside Pittsburgh, there are some pretty steep grades and some that are not terribly steep but do go on for some pretty long distances at a good decline.
Start off in D on a level stretch, give it a steady push on the accelerator, not stomp it to the floor but enough to pull away strong and steady, what point does it shift at (RPM's and MPH). Allow the automatic to do normal shifts without holding it to the floor but allowing it to wind up "normally" and shift as it will. Note what speeds /rpm's you average for each time it shifts.
Of course if you just ease away, it will shift at a lower speed and RPM and if you stomp it and hold it it should rev up to a higher point and shift. Do all three and write them down and we can compare.
I know if I step on mine hard and hold it, it will surprise you (or it should)
There is are a few hills near my house that are 25 MPH limit and the cops like to hide and pop you for speeding. Even in third gear it will roll over 45 MPH or more just coasting. I have to drop it into second and then still use the brakes a little to keep it under 30-35.
One time I was having trouble with mine dying unexpectedly. I was on a down hill slope with the tranny in N, trying to crank it and it just continued to accelerate. It was freewheeling 40 to 50 mph with the engine dead. I found I had one of the ECU connectors disconnected near the washer reservoir. I reconnected it and that problem went away.
Mine is very peppy/responsive in that 2000 to 4000 rpm range.
I do like the way you sit up so high that you can see the traffic flow way up ahead of you and adjust your throttle accordingly. Around here, the main roads are old and obsolete. The typical drivers here will not hesitate to cut you off if there is a gap ahead of you. You can see them speeding up before they even get up to your rear bumper with the car ahead of them slowing down. They will try to swoop right in front of you if there is much room at all, then they have to slam on their brakes as soon as they cut in front of you. I like to give it just enough throttle to "close the gap" before they cut me off and watch them almost hit the car in front of them. Wish I had a big retractable ram for just such people.
You do know they weigh about 4500 pounds empty. I have had mine on the scales at the metals recycler enough to know. With that much weight, mine will accelerate on any downhill slope without any throttle input. That is why I use second and third gear to avoid having to ride the brakes to slow it down.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 04-18-2012 at 02:03 PM.
#15
04-10-2012, 05:15 PM
A few quick questions, How long have you owned it?
Have you serviced things like the front, rear and center diff's yet?
Wheel Bearings?
Brakes? Do your brakes seem to get hot quickly? These calipers are bad about corroding and they can definitely stick/drag.
I live just outside Pittsburgh, there are some pretty steep grades and some that are not terribly steep but do go on for some pretty long distances at a good decline.
Start off in D on a level stretch, give it a steady push on the accelerator, not stomp it to the floor but enough to pull away strong and steady, what point does it shift at (RPM's and MPH). Allow the automatic to do normal shifts without holding it to the floor but allowing it to wind up "normally" and shift as it will. Note what speeds /rpm's you average for each time it shifts.
Of course if you just ease away, it will shift at a lower speed and RPM and if you stomp it and hold it it should rev up to a higher point and shift. Do all three and write them down and we can compare.
I know if I step on mine hard and hold it, it will surprise you (or it should)
There is are a few hills near my house that are 25 MPH limit and the cops like to hide and pop you for speeding. Even in third gear it will roll over 45 MPH or more just coasting. I have to drop it into second and then still use the brakes a little to keep it under 30-35.
One time I was having trouble with mine dying unexpectedly. I was on a down hill slope with the tranny in N, trying to crank it and it just continued to accelerate. It was freewheeling 40 to 50 mph with the engine dead.
Mine is very peppy/responsive in that 2000 to 4000 rpm range.
I do like the way you sit up so high that you can see the traffic flow way up ahead of you and adjust your throttle accordingly. Around here, the main roads are old and obsolete. The typical drivers here will not hesitate to cut you off if there is a gap ahead of you. You can see them speeding up before they even get up to your rear bumper with the car ahead of them slowing down. They will try to swoop right in front of you if there is much room at all, then the yhave to slam on their brakes as soon as they cut in front of you. I like to give it just enough throttle to "close the gap" before they cut me off and watch them almost hit the car in front of them. Wish I had a big retractable ram for just such people.
You do know they weigh about 4500 pounds empty. I have had mine on the scales at the metals recycler enough to know.
Have you serviced things like the front, rear and center diff's yet?
Wheel Bearings?
Brakes? Do your brakes seem to get hot quickly? These calipers are bad about corroding and they can definitely stick/drag.
I live just outside Pittsburgh, there are some pretty steep grades and some that are not terribly steep but do go on for some pretty long distances at a good decline.
Start off in D on a level stretch, give it a steady push on the accelerator, not stomp it to the floor but enough to pull away strong and steady, what point does it shift at (RPM's and MPH). Allow the automatic to do normal shifts without holding it to the floor but allowing it to wind up "normally" and shift as it will. Note what speeds /rpm's you average for each time it shifts.
Of course if you just ease away, it will shift at a lower speed and RPM and if you stomp it and hold it it should rev up to a higher point and shift. Do all three and write them down and we can compare.
I know if I step on mine hard and hold it, it will surprise you (or it should)
There is are a few hills near my house that are 25 MPH limit and the cops like to hide and pop you for speeding. Even in third gear it will roll over 45 MPH or more just coasting. I have to drop it into second and then still use the brakes a little to keep it under 30-35.
One time I was having trouble with mine dying unexpectedly. I was on a down hill slope with the tranny in N, trying to crank it and it just continued to accelerate. It was freewheeling 40 to 50 mph with the engine dead.
Mine is very peppy/responsive in that 2000 to 4000 rpm range.
I do like the way you sit up so high that you can see the traffic flow way up ahead of you and adjust your throttle accordingly. Around here, the main roads are old and obsolete. The typical drivers here will not hesitate to cut you off if there is a gap ahead of you. You can see them speeding up before they even get up to your rear bumper with the car ahead of them slowing down. They will try to swoop right in front of you if there is much room at all, then the yhave to slam on their brakes as soon as they cut in front of you. I like to give it just enough throttle to "close the gap" before they cut me off and watch them almost hit the car in front of them. Wish I had a big retractable ram for just such people.
You do know they weigh about 4500 pounds empty. I have had mine on the scales at the metals recycler enough to know.
I have only changed the fluid in all the diffs, and transmission. I should do a filter change but worry about taking cross member off, could it bend frame?
I will get back to you on the shift points, RPM and MPH. Come to speak of it though, I do hear a rubbing/grinding sound coming from the front when I take my foot off the gas, I think its front left, The Park break does not get hot when I drive it, according to my temp gauge, (LITTLE PEN LIKE LAZER FROM NORTHERN TOOL) the breaks don't heat up above 90 degrees on a 70 degree day. Thats city driving. I have not checked the wheel bearings. I do know that when I put it into N I can coast farther/ not decelerate as quickly.
Thats nice, I wish I had a retractable RAM too!!!!
Thanks so much for the things to look at. I will do this soon and get back to you all!
#16
04-10-2012, 09:13 PM
#17
04-15-2012, 03:13 PM
Sorry Spike. Gotta disagree with you on because its fuel injected, it wont carbon up. If you have an engine running extremely rich, CEL, lack of maintainence, etc, it will carbon up. Rather quickly.
#18
04-15-2012, 07:41 PM
[QUOTE=Danny Lee 97 Disco;311935
Start off in D on a level stretch, give it a steady push on the accelerator, not stomp it to the floor but enough to pull away strong and steady, what point does it shift at (RPM's and MPH). Allow the automatic to do normal shifts without holding it to the floor but allowing it to wind up "normally" and shift as it will. Note what speeds /rpm's you average for each time it shifts.
Of course if you just ease away, it will shift at a lower speed and RPM and if you stomp it and hold it it should rev up to a higher point and shift. Do all three and write them down and we can compare.
I know if I step on mine hard and hold it, it will surprise you (or it should)
There is are a few hills near my house that are 25 MPH limit and the cops like to hide and pop you for speeding. Even in third gear it will roll over 45 MPH or more just coasting. I have to drop it into second and then still use the brakes a little to keep it under 30-35.
One time I was having trouble with mine dying unexpectedly. I was on a down hill slope with the tranny in N, trying to crank it and it just continued to accelerate. It was freewheeling 40 to 50 mph with the engine dead.
Mine is very peppy/responsive in that 2000 to 4000 rpm range.
I do like the way you sit up so high that you can see the traffic flow way up ahead of you and adjust your throttle accordingly. Around here, the main roads are old and obsolete. The typical drivers here will not hesitate to cut you off if there is a gap ahead of you. You can see them speeding up before they even get up to your rear bumper with the car ahead of them slowing down. They will try to swoop right in front of you if there is much room at all, then the yhave to slam on their brakes as soon as they cut in front of you. I like to give it just enough throttle to "close the gap" before they cut me off and watch them almost hit the car in front of them. Wish I had a big retractable ram for just such people.
You do know they weigh about 4500 pounds empty. I have had mine on the scales at the metals recycler enough to know.[/QUOTE]
Shifting on flat level road, with no traffic I should note:
When pulling away strongly, but not putting the petal to the floor:
1800 rpm 25 mph
2400 rpm 40 mph
2700 rpm 53 mph
(speed was 50)
Easing away:
1500 rpm 10 mph
1700 rpm 21 mph
2100 rpm 45 mph
2600 rpm 58 mph
Stomping on it: *interstate*
2400 rpm 16 mph
2800 rpm 35 mph
3300 rpm 56 mph
3700 rpm (MOST RPM I HAVE EVER PUT ON THE ENGINE) 70 MPH
I assume I have a 4 speed gear box? I never noticed a fifth gear....
I am wondering if the feeling of slowing down I am having is because its actually engine breaking? EX: The engine is slowing it down because ........ Sounds odd, but it feels like that. I was in a semi yesterday and the driver was using the engine break and it felt close to that. Ever been in a truck with an engine break being used?
Start off in D on a level stretch, give it a steady push on the accelerator, not stomp it to the floor but enough to pull away strong and steady, what point does it shift at (RPM's and MPH). Allow the automatic to do normal shifts without holding it to the floor but allowing it to wind up "normally" and shift as it will. Note what speeds /rpm's you average for each time it shifts.
Of course if you just ease away, it will shift at a lower speed and RPM and if you stomp it and hold it it should rev up to a higher point and shift. Do all three and write them down and we can compare.
I know if I step on mine hard and hold it, it will surprise you (or it should)
There is are a few hills near my house that are 25 MPH limit and the cops like to hide and pop you for speeding. Even in third gear it will roll over 45 MPH or more just coasting. I have to drop it into second and then still use the brakes a little to keep it under 30-35.
One time I was having trouble with mine dying unexpectedly. I was on a down hill slope with the tranny in N, trying to crank it and it just continued to accelerate. It was freewheeling 40 to 50 mph with the engine dead.
Mine is very peppy/responsive in that 2000 to 4000 rpm range.
I do like the way you sit up so high that you can see the traffic flow way up ahead of you and adjust your throttle accordingly. Around here, the main roads are old and obsolete. The typical drivers here will not hesitate to cut you off if there is a gap ahead of you. You can see them speeding up before they even get up to your rear bumper with the car ahead of them slowing down. They will try to swoop right in front of you if there is much room at all, then the yhave to slam on their brakes as soon as they cut in front of you. I like to give it just enough throttle to "close the gap" before they cut me off and watch them almost hit the car in front of them. Wish I had a big retractable ram for just such people.
You do know they weigh about 4500 pounds empty. I have had mine on the scales at the metals recycler enough to know.[/QUOTE]
Shifting on flat level road, with no traffic I should note:
When pulling away strongly, but not putting the petal to the floor:
1800 rpm 25 mph
2400 rpm 40 mph
2700 rpm 53 mph
(speed was 50)
Easing away:
1500 rpm 10 mph
1700 rpm 21 mph
2100 rpm 45 mph
2600 rpm 58 mph
Stomping on it: *interstate*
2400 rpm 16 mph
2800 rpm 35 mph
3300 rpm 56 mph
3700 rpm (MOST RPM I HAVE EVER PUT ON THE ENGINE) 70 MPH
I assume I have a 4 speed gear box? I never noticed a fifth gear....
I am wondering if the feeling of slowing down I am having is because its actually engine breaking? EX: The engine is slowing it down because ........ Sounds odd, but it feels like that. I was in a semi yesterday and the driver was using the engine break and it felt close to that. Ever been in a truck with an engine break being used?
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